Heyyou - thanks for the reply. It's definitely motorized and I think I have located it on the passenger side of the transmission tunnel. Back screw will be a challenge.

Guess it's time to start pulling back some carpet...

 

That would be it.

I think the videos show cutting away a bit of carpet, so you can get a screwdriver up in there.

 

Bro, I started this thread and I wouldn't have if it was a waste of time to thy the heater treater part. Easy install and has worked flawlessly since I put it in. Follow the steps just to see how easy it is to get it out. If its broke, then order one. You will quickly post back here how happy you are that the $700 is still in your wallet and not in the service center cash register, period!

 

Just got the part today - spent the expected sweaty / cursing & mumbling time getting the back screw out. Found the broken part, replaced, indexed the motor and replaced and running COOOOOLLLLLLL. I must say replacing the back screw will be an ongoing project - I got a hex head replacement hoping I could use my rachet but only the hex socket would fit and then just barely so, not fully tightened yet. For those of you who replaced the original back screw - you should consider taking up surgery or something like that as it's a job for steady / strong hands.

Thanks all for the input on this - $700 won't be going to the local auto repair shop.

 

Could this blend door , not working properly make clicking sounds ?
when start it , or stop at a red light. Click click tap tap tap tap click click.

 

Sorry if this is a dumb question or already answered, but if I don't want to drop $25 on the metal replacement and just want to replace it with a replacement OEM plastic interposer, where would I find the replacement? Do I have to go to the dealership to get one?

 

Dealer does not have that. You have to buy the whole thing for hundreds of dollars I'm sure. Only other place is JY, but you still still need the whole heater assembly. That's why the $25 fix is the way to go.

 

My friend, forums are a very powerful tool. Some people have already done the hours of research, spent their money on trial and error to find a part that just works. You have never heard anything negative about the metal part. Buy it, put it in and be done with it FOREVER!

 

I will second the previous comment - I was looking at a $1000+ bill from a mechanic I trust (because he didn't know about this part / process for replacing). I did it myself using the metal part and haven't looked back.

 

I also had a Mode 2 door inoperable which caused the air that would have been sent to my feet to be sent to the defroster instead. Too hot from the defroster and no heat to the feet. Got frustrated and tore down the dash to the point where could access the door. I pulled the motor and tested it - it runs fine. So I found a white nylon part where the motor mounts. I turned it and it turns fine and the door moves as it's supposed to but the coupler passes the stops that are built into the heater plenum. That's because the detent that stops rotation was sheared from the white plastic part. I went to a Dodge dealer and they were very helpful. Seems Dodge has responded to what is probably a lot of failures of these parts with a newly designed part. It's much stronger and has part number 1-05019632AB issued September of 2011. I've upload some pdf's of the broken part and the redesigned replacement part. If I can remove the old ones easily (there's detents that look like they should allow a pull straight out removal) If the coupler seats in the door axle aren't stripped, I'll pop in the new ones for all three doors and button everything up. Easy (relatively) and what's more cheap. The couplers are only $6 each. Much less money and work than replacing the whole door.