Drive shaft U joints
Hey, how much did the u-joints run ya for the rear shaft? The dealership in town wants $115 to $125 depending on the drive shaft (1 piece, 2 piece.).
I found some online for $58.46, for both shafts. Mopar parts.
I can save $190 dollars in labor, and avoid being bent over.
I found some online for $58.46, for both shafts. Mopar parts.
I can save $190 dollars in labor, and avoid being bent over.
don't get any of those little cheap one's that are only $10 each.
Precision is not cheap - about $29 each.
caution - if you've never swapped u-joints, it can be a lot of work. you'll need some sockets, BFH, possibly some de-gouge'ing cleanup tools (i use a dremel), and sheriff likes to cut out his old one's with an angle grinder.
I used the Dana Spicer Life U joints
You can get them online for about $20 a piece, and there damn solid, guys at Pirate 4x4 recommended them.
I THINK the P/N is 5-790x, but double check that.
I had one u joint that I could not press out, the cap was stuck in the yoke too firm for the press, even with penetrant. I had to lay the driveshaft parallel in between to 2 2"X6" boards and rest the u-joint on the edges of the boards and bang on the base of the yoke with a hammer. Use this as a last resort if you have a stuck one.
You can get them online for about $20 a piece, and there damn solid, guys at Pirate 4x4 recommended them.
I THINK the P/N is 5-790x, but double check that.
I had one u joint that I could not press out, the cap was stuck in the yoke too firm for the press, even with penetrant. I had to lay the driveshaft parallel in between to 2 2"X6" boards and rest the u-joint on the edges of the boards and bang on the base of the yoke with a hammer. Use this as a last resort if you have a stuck one.
Greaseable U joint will last longer, IF you are religious about greasing them.
There are some heavy duty wheeling guys that claim that greasable joints are weaker than sealed.
I went with sealed. If I have to replace them again in 100,000, who cares? Better to spend the time it takes to change them out once, than shimmying my *** under the truck once an oil change with a grease gun. That's just my opinion.
There are some heavy duty wheeling guys that claim that greasable joints are weaker than sealed.
I went with sealed. If I have to replace them again in 100,000, who cares? Better to spend the time it takes to change them out once, than shimmying my *** under the truck once an oil change with a grease gun. That's just my opinion.
I was brought up to only replace u joints with greaseable ones, but you bring up a good point aim. I replaced my driver side ujoint last year when I did my first wheelbearing, used a greaseable one, and it is the only ujoint on the truck with a grease fitting and it needs replaced again badly.... makes me think about using a sealed one...
i prefer greaseable. you pump in grease, it pushes out any moisture. sealed is sort of sealed, but not really. water gets into them.
the hard core 4 wheelers don't like the greaseable one because they have a hollow core for the grease port which makes them a tad weaker. that's why the little ones are not greaseable as they would be too weak, but the big heavy super strength ones can handle it.
the hard core 4 wheelers don't like the greaseable one because they have a hollow core for the grease port which makes them a tad weaker. that's why the little ones are not greaseable as they would be too weak, but the big heavy super strength ones can handle it.
hahaha I cant even comment 
wait yes I can, is that a photoshopped coinpurse?

reminds me of groundskeeper ***** when he's goin in the ductwork to rescue the dog
"Grease me up baby, I'm goin in"

wait yes I can, is that a photoshopped coinpurse?


reminds me of groundskeeper ***** when he's goin in the ductwork to rescue the dog

"Grease me up baby, I'm goin in"



