Reminds me of when my ball joints went on my 1996. But, 2 weeks ago, I changed the brake pads, checked the rotors, and checked the ball joints for up down/side to side movement. Did not notice anything. Only thing was when I was greasing them. The left one has a bad boot. The grease was coming out of the sides.

It also seems like the vehicle pills to the right AND left when braking. Tie rods are great.

Also, when I need to stop fast, the truck seems to take a long time and i really need to stand on the brakes. I bled them 3 months ago and there was A LOT of air in the system. What can fail that would allow air to keep going back into the system?

Think it is just ball joints?
Or can it be the drums?

I know that my shocks are coming to an end. THink the steering stabilizer is also a culprit?

THanks,

--Dan

 

Do you feel the vibration thru the steering wheel? Or your seat?

 

thru the steering wheel when braking. There is also something seems like a centrifugal vibration. As if the rotors are warped whole the pads are being squeezed by the calipers.

the Vibration at 80 MPH, I feel it through the gas pedal. But that is slight vibration. I think I am paranoid about that one.

 

Did you turn your rotors when you did the brakes? The minor variance required to give a vibration isn't going to be something you can see..... a few thousandths of variance, and a vibratin' you will go.

Most machines shops will turn rotors for anywhere from five, to 30 bucks a whack. If you haven't, I would suggest giving it a shot.

 

Yeah, I have heard that before. My Father in law is a mechanic, and he said that he usually just changes out the rotors when he changes pads because they are not that expensive. I think they are 35 bucks a piece.
EDIT: I looked, I have the easy replacement rotors.

 

New rotors may not solve the problem. When I was doing the wrench turnin' thing for a living, I would cut the new rotors as a matter of course. I have been stung too often by the new rotors also being a bit warped...... No point in doing a job twice, so, I would shave a couple thousandths just to be sure they were straight. But, if you have to pay for it anyway....... might just as well see how much meat is left on your current rotors, and if they are still within spec, shave 'em, and take it from there.

 

for one thing the solid front axels on the trucks are really not balanced well and you couldd end up in an accident going over 80mph

 

I never turn rotors. They're replaced because I want all the meat that can be had.

Something to consider is a loose belt in the tire. I had that issue with my Cavalier and thought the wheel was out of balance, which is something else to consider. A rock or piece of debris stuck in the treat will throw off the wheel balance.

 

Rotors have minimum thickness specs specifically so that they CAN be turned.... and supposedly save a bit of money. (unless of course, you drive an early 90's W body gm product.......) In this one instance, I will grant that the engineers actually did have a clue. I am not sure just how that happened.

 

Yes, I know they have a minimum thickness, but at today's prices it's cheaper to chuck them and go new. My dad was a design engineer who loved talking with the Ford engineers about brakes. They literally walked, talked, ate, and shiat brakes and anything to do with braking systems.

Also note that in order to save weight for gas ratings, the auto companies equip new vehicles with brakes that typically don't last long. Why? Thinner rotors/drums saves weight.