97 Ram Odometer Problems - STOPPED
This past weekend, my truck turned 210,000 miles on the clock. The first indication of a problem is that the numbers did not roll over smooth. The first digit was ¾-turned and the next two skewed in a fashion where they were partially displaying a full zero. The rest of the digits were OK, but everything was out of whack.
This morning, I realized that neither the odometer nor the trip odometer is functioning. I reset the trip odometer and nothing. I know these are supposed to be constructed so as to be tamper proof, but once a vehicle hits this age/miles it's not like anyone cares; however, I would like some insight before I proceed to remove the cluster and "give it a go".
**EDIT**
I forgot to mention that the speedometer and all other gauges are working.
This morning, I realized that neither the odometer nor the trip odometer is functioning. I reset the trip odometer and nothing. I know these are supposed to be constructed so as to be tamper proof, but once a vehicle hits this age/miles it's not like anyone cares; however, I would like some insight before I proceed to remove the cluster and "give it a go".
**EDIT**
I forgot to mention that the speedometer and all other gauges are working.
Last edited by Gary-L; Aug 3, 2010 at 09:54 AM.
Odometer/trip meter are mechanically driven inside the speedometer. Chances are, something broke. Not sure just how serviceable those are..... take it apart, have a look, see what ya think.
Some time spent searching the web yielded an excellent find: www.odometergears.com
I fired off an e-mail and received this very quick response:
Looks like I'll be opening the cluster tonight to have a look-see. If it's a broken gear or two, then I'll be placing an order followed by a DIY
I fired off an e-mail and received this very quick response:
Gary,
Odometers are by far not tamper proof. A screw driver and an air compressor is all that is needed. Once the speedometer is removed from the instrument cluster the repair is similar to a Volvo 240 which the repair instructions can be found here.
http://www.odometergears.com/chrysler.html


The two gears you need to repair your odometer are $54.00 including the shipping for both.
Kind regards,
Darren Shackelford
Odometer Gears Ltd.
72 Croatan Road
Newport News, VA 23606
757-593-3478
Odometers are by far not tamper proof. A screw driver and an air compressor is all that is needed. Once the speedometer is removed from the instrument cluster the repair is similar to a Volvo 240 which the repair instructions can be found here.
http://www.odometergears.com/chrysler.html

20 tooth gear — All Dodge/Chrysler except Dodge Monaco
$25/each
$25/each

************************************************** ********16 tooth base — All Dodge/Chrysler except Dodge Monaco
$25/each
$25/each
The two gears you need to repair your odometer are $54.00 including the shipping for both.
Kind regards,
Darren Shackelford
Odometer Gears Ltd.
72 Croatan Road
Newport News, VA 23606
757-593-3478
It's more like, "You bought a 2 gen Dodge Ram? Alright, bend over." It's ALWAYS something with these trucks!
When I bought my 1953 f100, the odometer was not working at all. I took apart the dash and removed the odometer assembly.
gears looks exactly like that. and one the (1/10 Mile one) was cracked in half, so nothing spun.
I JB welded the gear back together. That was many years ago and it has worked great since
gears looks exactly like that. and one the (1/10 Mile one) was cracked in half, so nothing spun.
I JB welded the gear back together. That was many years ago and it has worked great since
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ahahahaha soo true! lol but its soo worth it! When you can get your truck to work for a day or for however long with out any problems
Well, got home and tore into the dash. I figured before buying anything to dismantle and see what the story is. As I suspected, some dirt/debris got in the mix (my dash cluster was filthy) and caused the gears to bind. Once the speedometer was in my hands, I could see that a couple of gears hit each other incorrectly, causing a bind and their subsequent fighting each other, which threw off the normal motion of the entire mechanism. Once I turned the primary, which is connected to the small stepper motor, there was a *POP* sound and all of the gears/wheels turned free. I estimated I'd driven about 150 miles, so I dutifully put 150 miles on the clock turning the entire works by hand for about 8 minutes. I also discovered some burnt/broken indicator bulbs, but since I'm planning to convert the entire cluster to LED next year I won't worry.
Tomorrow will be the test run to see if the repair worked (which I believe it did). All of the numbers are correctly lined up with each other and look OK.
For those complaining about the price, read some of the information on the links I posted.
1) The gears are almost impossible to find and aren't available through the manufacturer, let alone Dodge
2) The price he charges for the part is almost one-third of the normal kit that would have to be purchased just for the gear(s)
3) Be thankful someone in the aftermarket has stepped up to produce a quality product for these vehicles
Tomorrow will be the test run to see if the repair worked (which I believe it did). All of the numbers are correctly lined up with each other and look OK.
For those complaining about the price, read some of the information on the links I posted.
1) The gears are almost impossible to find and aren't available through the manufacturer, let alone Dodge
2) The price he charges for the part is almost one-third of the normal kit that would have to be purchased just for the gear(s)
3) Be thankful someone in the aftermarket has stepped up to produce a quality product for these vehicles











