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She wont start...help me!!

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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 01:56 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by SKOALRING96
black connector on the driver side off to the side of the distributor
Yup, that's the one I was talking about. That's either the CPS or CKPS. That'll do it everytime. It's very common to forget to reconnect that after an intake replacement.

CM
 
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Old Aug 10, 2010 | 12:21 AM
  #22  
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Hey guys I got the plugs back in hooked up the wires and she fired right up seems to run alot smoother now that the plenum was repaired
 
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 07:29 PM
  #23  
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Man you guys are good!!!!


Everytime I have a problem on my truck I do a little reading on DF.com and find the cause or at least where to look. I have the same problem as skoal here....but I didnt touch the plenum (even tho it needs replacing bad!!), my 94 360 would not start when the weather was damp or wet so I assumed this time around it was the same thing, so I changed the wires, plugs and coil and still no start. I dropped a little gas in the bowl and not even a sputter. I just checked the pcm fault codes and it gave me a 54: Crank position sensor.

I have a question to follow skoal's here..... Does that sensor fail progressively or does it just shuts off the first time??? Last time I drove the truck I drove it for an hour and it wouldnt start 10 minutes later on a very dry day. I got it running by cranking and cranking and pressing the pedal to the floor. Parked it here a month ago and now no start...

Thanks in advance guys!!
 
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 08:03 PM
  #24  
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Its an electrical part, and therefore has many failure modes. Sometimes it will work just fine when cold, and crap out when it gets hot. Others, it may just randomly fail, with odd intervals between failures. (this is the most fun.....) Or, it might just decide one day to stop working altogether. Are we having fun yet?
 
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 10:16 PM
  #25  
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I had to replace my crank sensor when i pinched the wire between tranny and engine when replaceing the trans last Nov.
I replaced it with a NAPA crank sensor.
Truck would start fine then anywhere from 5 to 8 mins. later it woiuld just die,
I would wait about a min and it would restart,
then it would be fine until it completley
cooled down again.
after monthes of trouble shooting, which is hard to do when it wouldnt throw any codes,
I replaced the sensor with an OEM sensor and have not had an issue since.
Use ONLY OEM crank and cam sensors.
So as HeyYou was saying they can play all kinds of havoc before they die.

Dave
 
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Old Sep 20, 2010 | 09:10 AM
  #26  
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oups....I just read again and code 54 is CAMSHAFT position not CRANKSHAFT.....Any idea where that's located????
 
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Old Sep 20, 2010 | 09:38 AM
  #27  
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This is a great example of why I always advise people to replace with OEM sensors only for, the aftermarket parts are not fully screened / tested to OEM spec. They do work but, only to a certain level at which point, under certain conditions, they will drift out of tolerance, sometimes fail completely, fault under hi or low temp and so on. Go with OEM is the best thing to do for electrical sensors of all types / kinds.

CM
 
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