latest project: ram air hat
#12
08-06-2010, 12:55 PM
#13
08-06-2010, 01:01 PM
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#14
08-06-2010, 01:07 PM
I will sell it for 45 plus S&H. It does not have a cloth filter. Just the regular old paper. It is actually not even on my truck!!! I had it on for about 3 drives, and in this heat, the engine did not like it. Mint condition.
45 is the lowest price I have seen it sold on Ebay for a dirty one. So you get that price.
--Dan
45 is the lowest price I have seen it sold on Ebay for a dirty one. So you get that price.
--Dan
#15
08-06-2010, 01:37 PM
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#16
08-06-2010, 01:59 PM
#17
08-06-2010, 02:46 PM
Went to HD and I have three possible solutions. I'm going to attempt them in this order:
1) 1/4 vinyl tubing- I can cut a slit longways down the vinyl tubing and snake it in a rectangle along the thin sharp edge of the snorkels at the end. When the air tube goes over it, it should squeeze the against the tubing and seal. I see Lowes has black, I might go there and trade in the clear I got at HD. Black will be easier to check for leaks with the snake light I have. After I test fit it and verify that there are no leaks and a good fit, I can pump the vinyl tubing full of RTV and run it on the edge again. That should help cement it onto the end. Cost is $3 +RTV which I own.
2) Smoke seal- I can run this around the outside of snorkels right near the edge and it should hold tight after the air tube is fitted on the snorkel, flat side facing the end of the snorkel. I found it in charcoal gray at the HD. This is second place because it's $23 a roll. I can return it if the vinyl tubing doesn't work as planned.
3) plasti-dip- found the dip can at HD (not the spray on stuff). A buddy at the parts store recommended wax shoe polish as a releasing agent. I can wax the outside of the snorkels and then glob some on the shoe polish and shove the tube on and let it set up. This is my third choice as it's the most messy and will probably cause the most headaches to get just right.
As far as the edges go, if you look closely at the snorkels, you'll see that I did use Ultra Black RTV on the edges, as the air hat snorkels are only held on by folded sheet metal "crimps". The hold is solid, but there was light leaking around some of the edges so a ran a very fine bead of RTV around the outside and smoothed it with my finger and wiped up the excess. On the inside flanges, I packed RTV in the crevices with my finger and then smoothed as best I could and cleaned up the edges. You'll notice that it looks a little more Charcoal in color than Black at those edges, that's the RTV that isn't as dark black as the low gloss engine enamel.
There is one edge where I cut the original hat for the second snorkel, I don't think I'll need to build up underneath it to ramp in the air, as it's cut significantly wider than the snorkel opening. If I get some sort of weird howling wind noises, I'll revisit that.
Here's pics of the air scoops and brackets I made to affix them to the frame rails on either side of the radiator where the rubber flaps are.
First pic is the original scoop vs one I cut open for more air intake. Since I don't have a factory cutout like the Daks had, I don't need the mounting tabs. I probably gained a 1/2" of scoop by doing this:
The second are some wooden joint reinforcements typically used in the attic:
I primed, color matched, and clearcoated them so they wont oxidize or rust. I'll attach the flange to the scoop with some washers and bolts and then attach the flange and scoop to the rails with self tapping screws next to the radiator wherever the tubing runs dictate they should go. I can then cut out a hole in the rubber flap wherever the scoop ends up.
1) 1/4 vinyl tubing- I can cut a slit longways down the vinyl tubing and snake it in a rectangle along the thin sharp edge of the snorkels at the end. When the air tube goes over it, it should squeeze the against the tubing and seal. I see Lowes has black, I might go there and trade in the clear I got at HD. Black will be easier to check for leaks with the snake light I have. After I test fit it and verify that there are no leaks and a good fit, I can pump the vinyl tubing full of RTV and run it on the edge again. That should help cement it onto the end. Cost is $3 +RTV which I own.
2) Smoke seal- I can run this around the outside of snorkels right near the edge and it should hold tight after the air tube is fitted on the snorkel, flat side facing the end of the snorkel. I found it in charcoal gray at the HD. This is second place because it's $23 a roll. I can return it if the vinyl tubing doesn't work as planned.
3) plasti-dip- found the dip can at HD (not the spray on stuff). A buddy at the parts store recommended wax shoe polish as a releasing agent. I can wax the outside of the snorkels and then glob some on the shoe polish and shove the tube on and let it set up. This is my third choice as it's the most messy and will probably cause the most headaches to get just right.
As far as the edges go, if you look closely at the snorkels, you'll see that I did use Ultra Black RTV on the edges, as the air hat snorkels are only held on by folded sheet metal "crimps". The hold is solid, but there was light leaking around some of the edges so a ran a very fine bead of RTV around the outside and smoothed it with my finger and wiped up the excess. On the inside flanges, I packed RTV in the crevices with my finger and then smoothed as best I could and cleaned up the edges. You'll notice that it looks a little more Charcoal in color than Black at those edges, that's the RTV that isn't as dark black as the low gloss engine enamel.
There is one edge where I cut the original hat for the second snorkel, I don't think I'll need to build up underneath it to ramp in the air, as it's cut significantly wider than the snorkel opening. If I get some sort of weird howling wind noises, I'll revisit that.
Here's pics of the air scoops and brackets I made to affix them to the frame rails on either side of the radiator where the rubber flaps are.
First pic is the original scoop vs one I cut open for more air intake. Since I don't have a factory cutout like the Daks had, I don't need the mounting tabs. I probably gained a 1/2" of scoop by doing this:
The second are some wooden joint reinforcements typically used in the attic:
I primed, color matched, and clearcoated them so they wont oxidize or rust. I'll attach the flange to the scoop with some washers and bolts and then attach the flange and scoop to the rails with self tapping screws next to the radiator wherever the tubing runs dictate they should go. I can then cut out a hole in the rubber flap wherever the scoop ends up.
Last edited by aim4squirrels; 08-06-2010 at 03:01 PM.
#18
08-06-2010, 04:46 PM
Option 1 works great!
The seal is extremely tight, no light leaking from the edges around the very end and I feel much better about the tubes not coming loose. There are 2 split openings on either side of the snorkel that there is a small hint of light from, I think RTV or plasti-dip can fill that quite easily. I'll also fill the inner curved tabs that are showing with the stuff as well. Best of all, none of the parts are permanent seals that I'll have to rebuild every time I take the hat off.
The last pic is a great close up of the RTV I added on the back of the snorkel by the hat. The flash really shows contrast well. I don't think you'd ever see that under the hood though.
Going to go add the RTV now so it'll set up overnight. I should have the truck back tomorrow from the paint shop so I can test fit it to tap the IAT sensor port and seal that with RTV. I can then mock up the scoop mounts and assemble those as well.
Might get it up and running this weekend if I'm lucky.
The seal is extremely tight, no light leaking from the edges around the very end and I feel much better about the tubes not coming loose. There are 2 split openings on either side of the snorkel that there is a small hint of light from, I think RTV or plasti-dip can fill that quite easily. I'll also fill the inner curved tabs that are showing with the stuff as well. Best of all, none of the parts are permanent seals that I'll have to rebuild every time I take the hat off.
The last pic is a great close up of the RTV I added on the back of the snorkel by the hat. The flash really shows contrast well. I don't think you'd ever see that under the hood though.
Going to go add the RTV now so it'll set up overnight. I should have the truck back tomorrow from the paint shop so I can test fit it to tap the IAT sensor port and seal that with RTV. I can then mock up the scoop mounts and assemble those as well.
Might get it up and running this weekend if I'm lucky.
Last edited by aim4squirrels; 08-06-2010 at 05:00 PM.
#19
08-07-2010, 03:20 AM
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