I do not remember any connection at the rear. I saw the sensor ( tall vertical sensor ) next to the dizzy. I did not disconnect that. It is still connected. I do not know where to look for the other as I didn't see it. Help with placement compared to the tall one I do see.

 

That sensor that you saw was actually the OIL SENDING UNIT.

Let me be more clear than before. I apologize for not being clearer.

Look in the rear of the intake at the dizzy. Now, look to the right side of the dizzy at the inside of the driver's side valve cover.

At or near that point, there's a wiring harness. In fact, there's more than one.

Look for TWO, hard black CONNECTORS- not sensors, but, the connectors FOR those sensors. There's should be TWO near one another.

NOTE: they may have also went behind the block a bit thus just out of sight / view. Get a light and illuminate it back there.

NOTE: to make it easier to get back there, remove the air hat / air intake assembly.

LAY ON the motor and look back there and verify that BOTH are connected.

CM

 

I will. The intake hat has been off I've been laying on the engine all day When you said right before, I thought you mean right side of the engine, not the left side

 

Well thank you all and a special thanks to CM, the truck is back on the road!! Replaced the fuel pump and she fired right back up. Thank you so much for all the assistance every one gave me!!!

 

After verifying voltage at both the FUEL PUMP RELAY COIL side and at PIN 87A in OPERATIONAL MODE, the next round of tests that I had him conduct were at the pump. We need to know if the fuel pump is getting proper voltage.

Purpose:

The purpose of this test is to verify the voltage at the pump.

PROCESS: as described in a previous post

RESULT: Low voltage was seen at the pump connector. 2 VDC was measured at the pump during KEY <ON> event.

CAUSE:Voltage drop at the FUEL PUMP connector

ACTION: removed the connector at the pump and reconnect and remeasure.

RESULT: 12 VDC was witnessed at the pump connector during KEY <ON> event.

ACTION: removed connector, cleaned contacts and reconnect and remeasure and listen for motor start up.

RESULT:12 VDC was witnessed under KEY <ON> event. No motor whine was heard.

ACTION:Attempt KEY <START> for 3 seconds and KEY <OFF>

RESULT: DID not start

ASSESSMENT: FUEL PUMP FAILURE

ACTION ITEM: Replace FUEL PUMP and RETEST

OUTCOME: Vehicle is back on-line and all systems check out.

ROOT CAUSE: FUEL PUMP failure.

CONCLUSION: Vehicle failed to start due to FUEL PUMP failure. After replacing the fuel pump, the vehicle now starts and is on-line.

CM

 

Thanks Again Guy good to have ole girl back on the road and not have to ride my GSXR in the rain!

 

Glad to hear that that one's been rectified==

The latest with my van's symptoms:

Today, the engine quit while in motion and would not restart for about 20 minutes or so after running about 40-50 miles. I would only turn the key part way until the cluster lights come on, the seatbelt buzzer sounds also but the gauges read 0 - they only move minutely. I did this about 30 times. (All other electricals work fine)
Then, after 20 minutes the gauges lit up fully and then I turned the key to crank- and it stated fine and ran me upstate for about 100 miles and no stall. I did jiggle many of the wire harnesses right before it restarted but I cannot say for sure that this corrected the problem even if temporarily.

I'll see how it acts tomorrow. I do need to replace the sparkers and wires anyway especially @ 125K miles

* someone else posted a fix which involved replacing the worn 12v lead to the PCM. Is the PCM located above the engine right below the windshield? Is it the device with three large multi-wire plugs on the bottom side?

 

I finally resolved the problem . . .

I knew this had to be an electrical/contact problem.

The other day it stalled and I jumped out opened the hood and I told my wife to watch the gauges while I touched the different harnesses and pushed in on all the harness connectors and plugs.
I jiggled the third plug on the PCM? located above the engine and below the windshield and figured out that it is a contact problem b/t the 3rd plug and the receptacle. When I pushed in on the plug, I heard a relay click (key in ignition in RUN position) and the gauges activated -then the engine restarted fine.

I will buy a spray can of contact cleaner and do both sides of all 3 connectors.

I can't figure out why the design engineers placed the PCM (if that's what the silver component box with the 3 large plugs is) above the HOT motor.