Take your time. Be careful not to snap the fastener stud. 1/2 inch driver will do and hand force only and rock it back and forth over time. Let that chemical work into the threads.

Don't force it, just let it do it's thing and, work it back and forth. Last thing you need is to shear the fastener.

The pump should be above the frame rail to where, the connector is completely visible.

NOTE: DO NOT SNAP THE FLEX LINE WHEN DROPPING THE TANK. THIS LINE MUST BE REMOVED FIRST PRIOR TO LOWERING THE TANK.

I already have a bad feeling that he's in trouble on this. If he can't see the pump, and, he's just dropping the tank, this means that the flex line was not disconnected and, if and when he goes to drop it, it's going to shear off at the fitting.

I hope he can't get those bolts off and comes into read this.

Hoping for the best here.

PM me with your number so I can tell you how to look for that pump. You can't see it from lying underneath. You must sit upright in between the driver side body and the frame rail to get access. It's right there. Don't even bother dropping the tank yet.


CM

 

ok well i could not get the bolt off due to not finding my breaker bar i have no leverage. I cant see the pump because of the sheild, wait i could not see it from the drivers side either, do I need to take the tire off?? I am getting ready to head in to work for a interview and plan on being back aroung 11-12 will pm you as well. You guys have been AWESOME!


Side note: I can see where the filler hose goes to the tanks but can not see the pump.

 

would it be easier to remove the bed? a few bolts and tail light connectors. its difficult for 1 man w/o help. you'd have to a lift or a shelf of the same height to slide it onto.

the good thing about removing the bed, is you can access the pump and wiring while everything is still installed, including running the truck.

 

might be a good idea I will have to look, i have a spray in bed liner so I dont know if they covered those bolts,
On that note I see the pump now I was looking to far back, the bad I am a big dude and there is no way i can get between that fender and frame to get in there. Will look into taking the bed off but if that is not an option I think I will have to drop the tank.

Ok stupid question, to take the bed off I see two stud bolts through the front of the bed, you mentioned the taillights I assume there are bolts under them as well, is that it just 4 bolts, a little more guidance on this would be appreciated thanks!

Ok lol sorry for all the edits, found this video. In the beggining they refer to the box bolts and show 3 pictures are those the bolts I would need to remove? If so there Idea may be very funtional with only lifting the bed enough to be able to get in there.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_cB7ocJoOg

 

Should be six bolts holding the bed to the frame, all accessed from underneath the truck.

 

I have a very similar problem with a 2001 Ram, but didn't begin until I changed the intake gaskets. I must have done thing . . what? I started a new post, was looking for some expert advice.

 

If you can get the truck up in the air (at the rear) all you need room for is your head and hands- that's it.

See, all you're doing at this point is sticking ONE probe into the connector. It is a waste of time to remove the bed just to do that for, if the truck is up high enough, there's plenty of space between frame rail and body as the pump is not at the rear of the tank but, IN THE DEEPEST section of that tank which, is apx. 2/3 from the front of the tank. Well, it is on my 36g tank. There's many models so, maybe yours is not the same.

In my opinion, if you had the **** end of the truck up in the air, and, with your bum on the ground, there should be adequate clearance for your head to fit at least and one arm. That's all you need.

Then, the pump is accessible from there. It's sitting up above the frame rail and, there's quite a bit of clearance from top of the pump to bottom of the bed on my truck making it super accessible.

Using a creeper, I slide under there parallel to the tank on the drivers side and then sit up and then rotate slightly then make a full 90º so I can face the pump directly and get to those fittings and connectors. I've got a 4WD truck with a slight lift so, I've got mucho room to move around. By jacking it up, this creates even more head room.

But, I'm not six-four, 295 lbs like some either so, I guess it depends on the circumstances.

CM

 

Follow up / update. I had him run two voltage verification tests.

TESTS CONDUCTED: VOLTAGE VERIFICATION

1. PIN 86; FUEL PUMP RELAY - COIL SIDE

2. PIN 87A; FUEL PUMP RELAY - FUEL PUMP MODULE / SUPPLY SIDE

RESULTS:

Test proved that 12 VDC was witnessed at both locations.

NEXT TEST: VOLTAGE VERIFICATION AT FUEL PUMP POST HARNESS

This last test will be performed this afternoon.

SUMMARY:

Voltage at SOURCE was verified PRE HARNESS thus factoring out a NO SUPPLY condition PRE HARNESS

<IF> proper voltage is witnessed at the FUEL PUMP connector, root cause for failure is a failure of the fuel pump motor.

<IF> proper voltage is NOT witnessed at the FUEL PUMP connector, possible root causes are:

a. bad connection at the connector interface at the fuel pump (loss of either HOT or GND)
b. bad connection at the connector interface at the wire harness POST PDC (loss of either HOT or GND)


Will update this afternoon after the test results are in.

CM

 

is there a connector running bac to the fuel pump originating near the back of the intake manifold? I'm looking for a reason I have no fuel pump right after an intake gasket change.

 

No. That connector is below and under the firewall just below the drivers side door hinge.

Here's what may have happened in your case. This JUST happened to another poster as well.

There's two black sensor connectors located in the rear of the intake, on the right side of the dizzy. They are the CPS and CKPS sensor connectors. One is for the crank (CKPS) and one is for the cam (CPS) if either one of those is NOT connected, you will lose ALL POWER to the EFI system. Electronic Fuel Injection system there. This means, no FUEL PUMP, NO POWER TO THE COIL, and NO 5-volt SUPPLY to the SENSORs.

In another thread, the root cause was: He FORGOT to reconnect them after working on his intake.

CM