Ok 98 Dodge ram 1500 5.9 2wheel, everything has been good with exception of loud vaccume sound from throttle body and radiator leak. Went out to start her this morning no love. She would crank but not turn over. She is not getting any fuel, there is a relay in the engine bay which i switched out with another and still nothing, where else can I go with this? What should I test next? And is the fuel pump in the tank?
THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP!!!

 

I will move this to the main forum to get you some help. The general forum is for off-topic but still semi-2nd gen Ram related subjects.

Yes, the fuel pump is in the tank.

 

thanks for moving the thread, sorry

 

So, you've got a no start condition and, you think that it's not getting fuel. Man, that's like the third time today that this has popped up, two no fuel issues and one no spark issue.

So, the loud vacuum sound is most likely a spent IAC valve that's either leaking at the seal or, the pintel valve is stuck so that barely any air is getting in.

Now, before we go into how to fix that issue, are you absolutely sure beyond reasonable doubt that she's not getting fuel?

DO THIS TEST:

Have someone turn the key to <ON>. At KEY <ON> event, power is applied to the FUEL PUMP at which time, you'll hear it come on for ~3 seconds and then shut off. This is normal by the way as it's a failsafe mechanism at the PCM that executes the auto shutdown command thus killing all power to the EFI system.

<IF> you hear the pump running, you know it's getting power thus, it should be putting out.

<IF> you DO NOT hear the pump running, IT'S NOT getting power thus, it could be a failsafe event has triggered thus NO POWER to the EFI system at all.

Run that test first and get back. Start there first. Let's see what we are dealing with here first. We want to know exactly what type of problem we are dealing with first.

CM

 

ok i dont hear anything, also put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and have 0 psi at all times. so would be safe to say not getting fuel there. Could not remeber if i used to hear the fuel pump or not but I def do not hear it. Thanks for the help so far.

 

Ok, so, now we know you've got no power going to the FUEL PUMP. EDIT: technically, this is incorrect. There indeed, could be voltage at the pump but, due to a OPEN inside the pump motor windings, it may not be spinning up thus leading one to assume that there's no power at the pump. In order to verify whether this is true or not, one would have to take a measurement at the pump to measure the voltage at the connector. END EDIT

So, we have a no start condition and no power to the pump. Let's see what else has been cut.

NEXT TEST: ELECTRICAL VERIFICATION TEST AT COIL

I want you to take a DMM (digital multi meter) and backprobe the positive side at the coil input.

HOW TO: using a paperclip, attach it to the RED probe by wrapping around the lead.

INSERT IT into the OR/GN wire at the coil connector. Gently wiggle it in from the underside of the connector. DO NOT REMOVE THE CONNECTOR from the COIL.

Take the remaining probe BLK / COM and attach it to ground at the headlight ground screw at the frame.

Have someone turn it over and verify VOLTAGE at the input of the COIL. You should see 12-13.6 VDC at the input.

IF: you do not possess a meter, I know a way to verify this but, it's not the smartest nor safest method so, just do this for one sec to two seconds MAX.

COIL ARC TO GROUND TEST:

-remove the coil wire AT THE COIL

-have someone turn it over for a MAX of ONE second.

CHECK FOR ARC at coil OUTPUT to engine ground.

<IF> NO SPARK is seen, we now have enough information to assess what is going on. It is most likely a failsafe event has triggered the PCM to shut down the EFI system thus cutting all power to all systems. In this scenario, it could be many things.

<IF> SPARK IS SEEN, (this is better) we know that the problem is isolated in the fuel delivery system and, it's much easier to troubleshoot as it's either going to be simple as a blown FUEL PUMP FUSE or, RELAY or, a FAULT at the fuel pump level.


Try that and get back if possible.

CM

 

Ok we are good on spark even took a vid check out around a min twenty. SORRY TOOK SO LONG FORUM WOULD NOT LET ME POST!!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2ld8OeUnawthanks again for the help!

 

OK, so, at least this is good news. If you've got spark, that's leading to a problem at the fuel delivery system and, judging how the FUEL PUMP did not kick on, that indicates the following:

a. either the FUEL PUMP is dead or

b. the FUEL PUMP RELAY is shot or

c. the FUEL PUMP FUSE is shot

Look for a 20 A fuse labeled FUEL PUMP FUSE.

Check that and see if that's blown.

<IF> it's blown, try putting a new one in and see what happens.

<IF> it blows again, there's a short in the fuel pump CKT and, that could be the motor itself or, the supply that feeds it.

<IF> it's not blown, then we need to start troubleshooting in the morning.

EDIT: If after checking all that out and you find the fuse to be good, take a measurement of the voltage at the pump connector. Reason being, you may have voltage there and, it may just be that there's an open in the motor windings thus, it's not powering on.

<IF> there's voltage to the pump, we can assess that the root cause for failure is a failed FUEL PUMP.

<IF> there's no voltage to the pump, AND the FUEL PUMP FUSE IS GOOD, either the connector under the firewall / door jamb area is of high contact resistance and / or open thus, very low voltage is seen at the pump.

<IF> there's no voltage at the pump AND the FUEL PUMP FUSE IS GOOD, the FUEL PUMP RELAY supply may not be there. In that case, (more electrical DMM work) you will have to measure the voltage on the common side of the FUEL PUMP RELAY. That's for tomorrow as that involves probing the pins at the PDC to verify voltage as well as conducting an electrical test on that FUEL PUMP RELAY.

I know you swapped it out but, always do a measurement test just to factor it out. I will explain this in the morning depending on the outcome of the above tests.

It's either one of three things mainly and that is:

1. FUEL PUMP FUSE: blown / open

2. FUEL PUMP RELAY: absence of power or faulty

3. FUEL PUMP MOTOR IS either OPEN or SHORTED thus, either resulting in a blown fuse or, all checks out fine throughout the CKT. (circuit)

CM

 

ok just for clarification, the fuel pump relay located under the hood on the drivers side, I checked that and it is good. I looked for a fuel pump Fuse and could not find one. Could you help me out in this department as for the location ? THANKS AGAIN!!

 

Fuse number 9 in the PDC. (under the hood.)