Better gas mileage
Professional
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
From: New York
More like 20,000 miles.
Mythbusters tested this, for the best fuel economy with drag vs load on the engine you should run with the windows down under 45mph and A/C on over 45mph.
Mythbusters proved that tailgate up is the best.
100mpg booyah.
Then again, you could get a Honda Shadow that gets about 80mpg (if you don't gun it all the time) and you won't look like a DUI collector that can't get a drivers license.
Mythbusters tested this, for the best fuel economy with drag vs load on the engine you should run with the windows down under 45mph and A/C on over 45mph.
Mythbusters proved that tailgate up is the best.
100mpg booyah.
Then again, you could get a Honda Shadow that gets about 80mpg (if you don't gun it all the time) and you won't look like a DUI collector that can't get a drivers license.
I have to say that this was the most entertaining thread I have read in awhile. On topic / off topic than back on. Everyone bashing everyone else. Great stuff (for me anyway, I got a few laughs). My first car was 92 Toyota Paseo. It was great driving all week and not noticing the gas gauge move all that much. I know of a couple people back in the day that raced the little 4 or 6 cylinder imports and they would get a little time taken off their E.T.s by coiling refrigerant lines around the CAI. Of course they where snaking those tubes all over the place and the turbos most likely helped.
As for gas mileage. Tailgating semi-trucks always helps. If you can get in their air pocket they will pull you along (Mythbusters).
You can always try Hypermiling. I try to do this when I tow.
1. Inflate tire to or ever so slightly above pressure, and I mean ever so slightly.
2. Go slower. The faster you go the more wind resistance.
3. Use engine oil of a lower viscosity.
4. Don't idle more then you have to. I know, your just sitting in the bank drive-thru,
but you've been there for 20 minutes. Do you know what your MPG is in the
drive-thru, it's ZERO.
5. Avoid excessive braking. Coast if you can. An object in motion tends to stay in
motion. The more you brake the more gas you use to get back up to speed.
6. Get a mileage book from Staples or just get a notebook. I can't remember what I
had for dinner last week, let alone my mileage figures for the last month.
7. I've also found that using the Cruise Control to handle accelerating and decelerating
helps a great deal because you are not hammering the the pedal to the floor to
hear that Ram roar.
8. I don't have one myself but if you were that curious try this.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/scan-gauge-ii-for-vehicles-built-after-
1996/p2019681.jcwx?filterid=b2302c14720j1
9. Push your truck as much as possible. Don't drive into the drive way, push it.
(I'm joking)
And now to the piece de resistance.
Things that are "guaranteed" to work.
Magnets:
The food processor looking thing.
(When Popular Mechanics did the test, it lowered HP by 10% and increased fuel consumption by 20%)
Engine Ionizer (what the hell is this thing)
Here is what Popular Mechanics Said:
"THE DYNO SAYS: The truck we tested showed about a 15-hp loss with the Ionizer. About 10 miles into our economy test, the left bank of rubber capacitor blocks started to melt and sag onto the red-hot exhaust manifold. When smoke started to fill the dyno room, we interrupted the test and redressed the wires and capacitor blocks more securely. But when one on the right bank liquefied and dripped onto the manifold, we had flames a good 2 ft. tall, requiring the use of a 20-pound fire extinguisher. This, of course, terminated the test. Besides, most of the capacitor blocks looked like yesterday's chewing gum. Consequently, we have no comment as to the abilities of the Electronic Engine Ionizer Fuel Saver to reduce fuel consumption."
And the rest
- Vapor injectors
- Water injection
Full article here = http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...ileage/1802932
As for gas mileage. Tailgating semi-trucks always helps. If you can get in their air pocket they will pull you along (Mythbusters).
You can always try Hypermiling. I try to do this when I tow.
1. Inflate tire to or ever so slightly above pressure, and I mean ever so slightly.
2. Go slower. The faster you go the more wind resistance.
3. Use engine oil of a lower viscosity.
4. Don't idle more then you have to. I know, your just sitting in the bank drive-thru,
but you've been there for 20 minutes. Do you know what your MPG is in the
drive-thru, it's ZERO.
5. Avoid excessive braking. Coast if you can. An object in motion tends to stay in
motion. The more you brake the more gas you use to get back up to speed.
6. Get a mileage book from Staples or just get a notebook. I can't remember what I
had for dinner last week, let alone my mileage figures for the last month.
7. I've also found that using the Cruise Control to handle accelerating and decelerating
helps a great deal because you are not hammering the the pedal to the floor to
hear that Ram roar.
8. I don't have one myself but if you were that curious try this.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/scan-gauge-ii-for-vehicles-built-after-
1996/p2019681.jcwx?filterid=b2302c14720j1
9. Push your truck as much as possible. Don't drive into the drive way, push it.
(I'm joking)
And now to the piece de resistance.
Things that are "guaranteed" to work.
Magnets:
The food processor looking thing.
(When Popular Mechanics did the test, it lowered HP by 10% and increased fuel consumption by 20%)
Engine Ionizer (what the hell is this thing)
Here is what Popular Mechanics Said:
"THE DYNO SAYS: The truck we tested showed about a 15-hp loss with the Ionizer. About 10 miles into our economy test, the left bank of rubber capacitor blocks started to melt and sag onto the red-hot exhaust manifold. When smoke started to fill the dyno room, we interrupted the test and redressed the wires and capacitor blocks more securely. But when one on the right bank liquefied and dripped onto the manifold, we had flames a good 2 ft. tall, requiring the use of a 20-pound fire extinguisher. This, of course, terminated the test. Besides, most of the capacitor blocks looked like yesterday's chewing gum. Consequently, we have no comment as to the abilities of the Electronic Engine Ionizer Fuel Saver to reduce fuel consumption."
And the rest
- Vapor injectors
- Water injection
Full article here = http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...ileage/1802932
Last edited by Maverick Nos; Aug 22, 2010 at 02:42 AM.
Legend
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,663
Likes: 8
From: Central Oklahoma
I have to say that this was the most entertaining thread I have read in awhile. On topic / off topic than back on. Everyone bashing everyone else. Great stuff (for me anyway, I got a few laughs). My first car was 92 Toyota Paseo. It was great driving all week and not noticing the gas gauge move all that much. I know of a couple people back in the day that raced the little 4 or 6 cylinder imports and they would get a little time taken off their E.T.s by coiling refrigerant lines around the CAI. Of course they where snaking those tubes all over the place and the turbos most likely helped.
As for gas mileage. Tailgating semi-trucks always helps. If you can get in their air pocket they will pull you along (Mythbusters).
You can always try Hypermiling. I try to do this when I tow.
1. Inflate tire to or ever so slightly above pressure, and I mean ever so slightly.
2. Go slower. The faster you go the more wind resistance.
3. Use engine oil of a lower viscosity.
4. Don't idle more then you have to. I know, your just sitting in the bank drive-thru,
but you've been there for 20 minutes. Do you know what your MPG is in the
drive-thru, it's ZERO.
5. Avoid excessive braking. Coast if you can. An object in motion tends to stay in
motion. The more you brake the more gas you use to get back up to speed.
6. Get a mileage book from Staples or just get a notebook. I can't remember what I
had for dinner last week, let alone my mileage figures for the last month.
7. I've also found that using the Cruise Control to handle accelerating and decelerating
helps a great deal because you are not hammering the the pedal to the floor to
hear that Ram roar.
8. I don't have one myself but if you were that curious try this.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/scan-gauge-ii-for-vehicles-built-after-
1996/p2019681.jcwx?filterid=b2302c14720j1
9. Push your truck as much as possible. Don't drive into the drive way, push it.
(I'm joking)
And now to the piece de resistance.
Things that are "guaranteed" to work.
Magnets:
The food processor looking thing.
(When Popular Mechanics did the test, it lowered HP by 10% and increased fuel consumption by 20%)
Engine Ionizer (what the hell is this thing)
Here is what Popular Mechanics Said:
"THE DYNO SAYS: The truck we tested showed about a 15-hp loss with the Ionizer. About 10 miles into our economy test, the left bank of rubber capacitor blocks started to melt and sag onto the red-hot exhaust manifold. When smoke started to fill the dyno room, we interrupted the test and redressed the wires and capacitor blocks more securely. But when one on the right bank liquefied and dripped onto the manifold, we had flames a good 2 ft. tall, requiring the use of a 20-pound fire extinguisher. This, of course, terminated the test. Besides, most of the capacitor blocks looked like yesterday's chewing gum. Consequently, we have no comment as to the abilities of the Electronic Engine Ionizer Fuel Saver to reduce fuel consumption."
And the rest
- Vapor injectors
- Water injection
Full article here = http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...ileage/1802932
As for gas mileage. Tailgating semi-trucks always helps. If you can get in their air pocket they will pull you along (Mythbusters).
You can always try Hypermiling. I try to do this when I tow.
1. Inflate tire to or ever so slightly above pressure, and I mean ever so slightly.
2. Go slower. The faster you go the more wind resistance.
3. Use engine oil of a lower viscosity.
4. Don't idle more then you have to. I know, your just sitting in the bank drive-thru,
but you've been there for 20 minutes. Do you know what your MPG is in the
drive-thru, it's ZERO.
5. Avoid excessive braking. Coast if you can. An object in motion tends to stay in
motion. The more you brake the more gas you use to get back up to speed.
6. Get a mileage book from Staples or just get a notebook. I can't remember what I
had for dinner last week, let alone my mileage figures for the last month.
7. I've also found that using the Cruise Control to handle accelerating and decelerating
helps a great deal because you are not hammering the the pedal to the floor to
hear that Ram roar.
8. I don't have one myself but if you were that curious try this.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/scan-gauge-ii-for-vehicles-built-after-
1996/p2019681.jcwx?filterid=b2302c14720j1
9. Push your truck as much as possible. Don't drive into the drive way, push it.
(I'm joking)
And now to the piece de resistance.
Things that are "guaranteed" to work.
Magnets:
The food processor looking thing.
(When Popular Mechanics did the test, it lowered HP by 10% and increased fuel consumption by 20%)
Engine Ionizer (what the hell is this thing)
Here is what Popular Mechanics Said:
"THE DYNO SAYS: The truck we tested showed about a 15-hp loss with the Ionizer. About 10 miles into our economy test, the left bank of rubber capacitor blocks started to melt and sag onto the red-hot exhaust manifold. When smoke started to fill the dyno room, we interrupted the test and redressed the wires and capacitor blocks more securely. But when one on the right bank liquefied and dripped onto the manifold, we had flames a good 2 ft. tall, requiring the use of a 20-pound fire extinguisher. This, of course, terminated the test. Besides, most of the capacitor blocks looked like yesterday's chewing gum. Consequently, we have no comment as to the abilities of the Electronic Engine Ionizer Fuel Saver to reduce fuel consumption."
And the rest
- Vapor injectors
- Water injection
Full article here = http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...ileage/1802932
Thread Starter
|
Professional
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
From: Georgia
This is a funny thread. haha the arguments are great, and the bashing. Anways, i filled up yesterday and i went 245 miles put 22.6 gallons in and i got 10.9 mpg. All city. Haha thats terrible. i was light on the gas. acclerated slowly, coasted when i had to, let off the gas early. Idk what to do. Oh yea, does anyone how big my gas tank is? it's a 1997 1500 4x4 single cab. the manual says its 26. but i think thats bull**** because when i filled up yesterday my gas light was on and it was right on the E. and i put 22.6 gallons in? i dont think so. thanks for the help guys
Retired Moderator - RIP
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 18,729
Likes: 17
From: NH
The gauges are not all that accurate, so yes you have a 26 gallon tank.
I browsed over the thread real quick and saw no mention of whether or not you have checked the lower intake gasket(plenum). And how is oil consumption? Also the oversize tires and 3:55 gears you have are not helping.
I browsed over the thread real quick and saw no mention of whether or not you have checked the lower intake gasket(plenum). And how is oil consumption? Also the oversize tires and 3:55 gears you have are not helping.
Thread Starter
|
Professional
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
From: Georgia
thats what i thought.
i dont know how to check the plenum gasket. im pretty sure its been replaced by the dealer. if its called and "intake gasket" thats what they replaced when i first bought it. it runs a little rich. you can smell it. so yea it uses a little oil. and what gears would be better than 355's on gas? i know the tires arent helping but it makes the truck look better. haha
i dont know how to check the plenum gasket. im pretty sure its been replaced by the dealer. if its called and "intake gasket" thats what they replaced when i first bought it. it runs a little rich. you can smell it. so yea it uses a little oil. and what gears would be better than 355's on gas? i know the tires arent helping but it makes the truck look better. haha
To check the plenum either take the intake box off and open the throttle all the way and look down into the intake manifold or remove the throttle body and get a look. If you see oil sitting there its blown. How much was the repair for the intake gasket? That could be three different things if that's what the dealer told you; plain old air box gasket, throttle body gasket or the plenum. The plenum isn't an easy fix it could take 8 hours if you know your way around the engine.
All Star
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 970
Likes: 0
From: Dacula GA
thats what i thought.
i dont know how to check the plenum gasket. im pretty sure its been replaced by the dealer. if its called and "intake gasket" thats what they replaced when i first bought it. it runs a little rich. you can smell it. so yea it uses a little oil. and what gears would be better than 355's on gas? i know the tires arent helping but it makes the truck look better. haha
i dont know how to check the plenum gasket. im pretty sure its been replaced by the dealer. if its called and "intake gasket" thats what they replaced when i first bought it. it runs a little rich. you can smell it. so yea it uses a little oil. and what gears would be better than 355's on gas? i know the tires arent helping but it makes the truck look better. haha
Rookie
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: Central Ky
Please dont hyper mile... really shutting off your engine while moving is very very dangerous.
I average 14~16 (mixed driving) on the highway and have nosed the 17 mark but cant get it consistent... The best things I did to my truck
#1 Dyno Tune your vehicle for fuel consumption. 2.5 ~ 3 mpg. It's expensive yes but it's guaranteed to work, unless your engine is at perfect efficiency (I highly doubt it)
#2 good quality fluids... about 1 to 1.5 mpg
#3 as others have beat to death drive it right and get rid of extra junk.
several mags and mythbusters have proven that A toneau is better then not, and if you cant afford that closed tailgate is better then open.
on side note the dyno tune I went in with K&N replacement, a 14" and 180deg T-stat, Hypertech tune and a new set of platnium plugs. they put in a stock Napa gold air filter (paper), kept the 180 deg T-stat but changed out the plugs, and set the tune back to stock, then changed out my injectors. If i put the Hypertech back in I loose 1~2 gal average in the "efficiency mode"
I average 14~16 (mixed driving) on the highway and have nosed the 17 mark but cant get it consistent... The best things I did to my truck
#1 Dyno Tune your vehicle for fuel consumption. 2.5 ~ 3 mpg. It's expensive yes but it's guaranteed to work, unless your engine is at perfect efficiency (I highly doubt it)
#2 good quality fluids... about 1 to 1.5 mpg
#3 as others have beat to death drive it right and get rid of extra junk.
several mags and mythbusters have proven that A toneau is better then not, and if you cant afford that closed tailgate is better then open.
on side note the dyno tune I went in with K&N replacement, a 14" and 180deg T-stat, Hypertech tune and a new set of platnium plugs. they put in a stock Napa gold air filter (paper), kept the 180 deg T-stat but changed out the plugs, and set the tune back to stock, then changed out my injectors. If i put the Hypertech back in I loose 1~2 gal average in the "efficiency mode"
I never said anything about shutting off the engine while driving. The way I look at is to drive like your 90. If you shut down you will lose power steering.