Alright,

I started this today with parts from a junkyard 40 miles away. But it was on the way to where I was working today.

Air cleaner assembly from 1996 dakota, and a 2500 ram van. THe assembly from the ram van was in better shape than another dak that we saw. BI just took the air tube from the dak. The assembly is slightly diferent for the van, but only on the inside. The bump along the inside was bigger on the van. But it made no difference.

EXTRA PARTS:
1. There is a stock part that looks like an AIR DAM that goes over the intake port. Meant to keep rain out. I took one. Forgot to get another. Not pictured either.
2. Bracket for the throttle body so you do not have to bend any threaded bar. Pictured center. SHOULD HAVE GRABBED MORE. But I was not in the greedy mood.

PARTS:


Bracket:


Assemblies: Different cars, but the same


After the cuts: Put together by gravity


It is not secured. But I made the cuts, a-la AIM. I have some hi temp solvent resistant adhesive I will use. And probably a rivet gun or whatever AIM used (Have not checked the post for an answer yet. Thanks in advance if you answered)

So far:
So easy a caveman can do it.


--Dan

 

Good luck and have fun.

 

You can use rivets.

Ray Block, the guy I stole this idea from, used rivets. I was out of rivets, but had the screws, so I used those. A 7/64ths drill bit gave me a tight hole for the screws.

For you test fitments on the engine, use the oldest top cover. I scraped mine just a bit by not using the old one.

Make sure you check and mark the location of the loose snorkel before you cut a port or mount it to the original hat and mind the different stuff you have going on in the engine bay. I have no idea what the actual angle is, I just put the hose on the end of the snorkel, ran the hose and scoop to the front and kind of tried to find the point where the snorkel wanted to sit naturally.

Also, I cut the "rim" off the loose snorkel, it fit the other hat better that way. I can't tell by your pic if you did that or not.

 

more pics when completed please?

 

I know what you are saying AIM. I was wondering what the angle "should" be. But, from what I was loooking at on the engine bay, it seems that a wide angle would be best. I think I have it wide enough, but i can always make the cut a bit bigger and shift the loose snorkel. Having it bigger is not really bad, it ensures a good flow of air into the assembly.

I think it will work "good nuff."

As for the next guy, THis is my first day, and I am devoting about 2 hours to this every day this week. Should be done by 7PM (central) this week. However, my wife has a big weekend planned, so it might not be until late sunday.

--Dan

 

so you should make on for me and ship it out this way maybe like purp was going to do with plenum plates lol

 

Well, there is no shortage of supplies in that junkyard. Let's see how I do with this one and I will get back with you.

--Dan

 

i wonder if i could flip it to the top of the cowl of the hood? that would be sweet

 

If you do start making them and selling them I would like to buy one and try it. I cant get air hats in the junk yard here there is not one dakota there

 

Then you don't need anything. All you need to do is fab an aluminum pan to seal to the hood. Slap an edelbrock pro-flo in there and be done with it. You just need to fab a apn that will seal the bottom, and go up the sides of the hood and seal to the hood.

It is actually pretty easy. i am sure that places sell fabbed cowl induction pans for your hood. Or you can buy a universal and tinker with it until it fits. Much easier than doing the double hat.