1996 dodge ram 1500 oil pressure
#12
#13
thank you guys i did not know how to post my own thread so i post my ? under where i did ... the screen on the intake tube was clogged i put new pump and pick up i think the top end heat sezied how do i tell if its a bearing or the hex drive from the crank and if thats it how do i replace it .. the truck sounds great when i start it way is this ??
#14
You need to find out what the problem is first..... I would get a mechanical gauge, and verify that you do indeed have a problem first. (which it really sounds like you do....) I just got a cheap 20 dollar gauge from the parts store.... its just temporary, so, doesn't need to be high dollar.
If you do indeed drop to zero pressure with a warm engine.... time to drop the pan, and have a look at some of your bearings, and the oil pump drive. (pump needs to come back off.....) If the drive shaft for the pump is worn, twisted, or otherwise buggered up, time for a new one.
You will also get to learn the mysteries of plastigage...... All it is is a claylike substance that looks a lot like string...... you cut a small piece off, stick it on the bearing surface to be check, and then torque the bearing cap into place.... the remove it, and compare it to the width chart on the package. (when you see it, it will make more sense.) If your clearances are out of spec, time for new bearings. Also, if the bearings are scarred, time to replace them as well.....
If you do indeed drop to zero pressure with a warm engine.... time to drop the pan, and have a look at some of your bearings, and the oil pump drive. (pump needs to come back off.....) If the drive shaft for the pump is worn, twisted, or otherwise buggered up, time for a new one.
You will also get to learn the mysteries of plastigage...... All it is is a claylike substance that looks a lot like string...... you cut a small piece off, stick it on the bearing surface to be check, and then torque the bearing cap into place.... the remove it, and compare it to the width chart on the package. (when you see it, it will make more sense.) If your clearances are out of spec, time for new bearings. Also, if the bearings are scarred, time to replace them as well.....
#15
#16
You need to find out what the problem is first..... I would get a mechanical gauge, and verify that you do indeed have a problem first. (which it really sounds like you do....) I just got a cheap 20 dollar gauge from the parts store.... its just temporary, so, doesn't need to be high dollar.
If you do indeed drop to zero pressure with a warm engine.... time to drop the pan, and have a look at some of your bearings, and the oil pump drive. (pump needs to come back off.....) If the drive shaft for the pump is worn, twisted, or otherwise buggered up, time for a new one.
You will also get to learn the mysteries of plastigage...... All it is is a claylike substance that looks a lot like string...... you cut a small piece off, stick it on the bearing surface to be check, and then torque the bearing cap into place.... the remove it, and compare it to the width chart on the package. (when you see it, it will make more sense.) If your clearances are out of spec, time for new bearings. Also, if the bearings are scarred, time to replace them as well.....
If you do indeed drop to zero pressure with a warm engine.... time to drop the pan, and have a look at some of your bearings, and the oil pump drive. (pump needs to come back off.....) If the drive shaft for the pump is worn, twisted, or otherwise buggered up, time for a new one.
You will also get to learn the mysteries of plastigage...... All it is is a claylike substance that looks a lot like string...... you cut a small piece off, stick it on the bearing surface to be check, and then torque the bearing cap into place.... the remove it, and compare it to the width chart on the package. (when you see it, it will make more sense.) If your clearances are out of spec, time for new bearings. Also, if the bearings are scarred, time to replace them as well.....
#18