Performance...
Old school horizontal throttle body. Threaded hole offset towards the front of the truck.
I think you could just use a Dakota or Durango air hat instead. Unless you could fit the elbow between the TB and the hood, then you could use that. Would look kinda cool , I think.
I concur with everything everybody else has said.
If you are going to go with cat back, I would just cut out the muffler and put in a new one, just leave the reast of the stock system. From the muffler back, the stock system isn't THAT bad....at least mine isn't. Yours should be the same. Just get a nice shiny chrome tip.
What I plan on doing. 
I personally would do tune up stuffs first, then either a CAI or drop-in filter, then tuner.
wait, thats what I plan on doing....ololololol
I think you could just use a Dakota or Durango air hat instead. Unless you could fit the elbow between the TB and the hood, then you could use that. Would look kinda cool , I think.

I concur with everything everybody else has said.
If you are going to go with cat back, I would just cut out the muffler and put in a new one, just leave the reast of the stock system. From the muffler back, the stock system isn't THAT bad....at least mine isn't. Yours should be the same. Just get a nice shiny chrome tip.
What I plan on doing. 
I personally would do tune up stuffs first, then either a CAI or drop-in filter, then tuner.
wait, thats what I plan on doing....ololololol
I've just used a 3" boot with two hose clamps, but I've NOT done a 3.9, 5.2 or 5.9 yet. Have only made them for Hemi, 4.7, 4.0 I6s and GM 5.7s so far. If I remember how the TB was setup on my old 2nd Gen (it's been almost 8 years since I've had it) I believe the TB is setup a little different. Maybe someone will chime in who's either made one or installed a store bought on a 5.2 or 5.9.
This one is about $8 at my local Ace Hardware WITH the two clamps:

This one is about $8 at my local Ace Hardware WITH the two clamps:

Dual E-fans will pay for themselves after 1-2 yrs of average fuel consumption. 7-12 HP gain at the crank, colder A/C, better throttle response, truck runs cooler...
Ceramic coated shorty headers ($214 for a set of Summit black pacesetters on ebay right not)
Bore out the throttle body at a machine shop for cheap...
Spectre CAI for 120-140, 1/2 price of K&N and almost the same results...
1.7 RR's
SCT Tuner by Hemifever!!!!!!!!!!!! $275 canned $375 custom
Deep tranny pan and check valve delete..will save the life of your original trans
Umm I am assuming you have the basics? ie. tune-up ???Cap rotor plugs wires oil oil filter air filter coolant flush...checked all fluids and lubricants...brakes...ball joints..ect...
Ceramic coated shorty headers ($214 for a set of Summit black pacesetters on ebay right not)
Bore out the throttle body at a machine shop for cheap...
Spectre CAI for 120-140, 1/2 price of K&N and almost the same results...
1.7 RR's
SCT Tuner by Hemifever!!!!!!!!!!!! $275 canned $375 custom
Deep tranny pan and check valve delete..will save the life of your original trans
Umm I am assuming you have the basics? ie. tune-up ???Cap rotor plugs wires oil oil filter air filter coolant flush...checked all fluids and lubricants...brakes...ball joints..ect...
CAI is a waste of money. Get a round or a Spectre Cloth filter for the stock one.
I don't even have a CAI for my truck. I run the stocker right now.
Best bang for buck:
1. Hughes or APS plenum kit (poor college stuident probably does not have all the tools for an easy install in the parking lot) (150)
2. 180* thermostat (14 from jet performance)
3. SCT from hemifever ($275)
4. 1.7 roller rockers (350)
5. JBA ceramic coated headers (544)
THat is all you need. Dual E-fans are not a good idea. They might not even cool your truck better. YOur AC will run cooler when stopped or in VERY slow traffic. After 40 MPH, the air rushing through your grille is what is cooling your engine, not the clutch fan. That is a better mod for someone that already had a set of heads, SCT, 1.7s.
You picked the wrong make for cheap performance.
My 2 cents is this:
1. Verify a good plenum gasket
2. Good hi-flow air filter
3. TUNE!! deathflash=bad...
4. 1.7 RR's
5. headers, y-pipe, muffler, and hi-flow cat IF you can or just leave original
I agree on the e-fan issue. Expensive, only benefit besides 7-10 hp. at the crank is cooler temp while sitting in traffic, and fuel mileage gains are minimal. And as far as CAI...The tube already runs outside the engine compartment on a stocker. Its sucking cooler air! Most CAI from the aftermarket end with the filter INSIDE the engine compartment. I really see no benefit over a stocker with a nice k&n in it.
On a budget just go for the tune!! Easy and most gain for the money.
1. Verify a good plenum gasket
2. Good hi-flow air filter
3. TUNE!! deathflash=bad...
4. 1.7 RR's
5. headers, y-pipe, muffler, and hi-flow cat IF you can or just leave original
I agree on the e-fan issue. Expensive, only benefit besides 7-10 hp. at the crank is cooler temp while sitting in traffic, and fuel mileage gains are minimal. And as far as CAI...The tube already runs outside the engine compartment on a stocker. Its sucking cooler air! Most CAI from the aftermarket end with the filter INSIDE the engine compartment. I really see no benefit over a stocker with a nice k&n in it.
Mean Magnum is correct, most CAI kits do all of nothing except suck in hotter air than factory and increase air flow which is essentially what a 14x3 air cleaner would do. However, I feel a high quality true CAI, such as Volant, S&B, or a RamAir setup, will provide great results.
With my Scangauge, I recorded an Intake Air temp of 160 degrees at idle, and 145 degrees cruising at 60mph with the stock air box. Once I installed the S&B my idle temps were between 140-145, and at 60mph around 120-125. And these temps are here in Florida during the summer. So a true cold air intake will yield some results, at least better than my 14x3 did. I can't wait to see what the readings are when it cools off a bit down here.
With my Scangauge, I recorded an Intake Air temp of 160 degrees at idle, and 145 degrees cruising at 60mph with the stock air box. Once I installed the S&B my idle temps were between 140-145, and at 60mph around 120-125. And these temps are here in Florida during the summer. So a true cold air intake will yield some results, at least better than my 14x3 did. I can't wait to see what the readings are when it cools off a bit down here.
Last edited by RamSport97; Sep 15, 2010 at 06:13 PM.
Alrighty! Thanks for all the input guys! Its appreciated...
Well first off, I know I want to get the SCT. After that the Volant CAI, and the different plenum. Then, Ill go for the headers and exhaust at the same time. I mean yes, my *** may be poor right now but all this will come in time.
Oh, and sorry if I asked this same question a long time ago. I forgot I even had a thread like this I started in June.
Well first off, I know I want to get the SCT. After that the Volant CAI, and the different plenum. Then, Ill go for the headers and exhaust at the same time. I mean yes, my *** may be poor right now but all this will come in time.
Oh, and sorry if I asked this same question a long time ago. I forgot I even had a thread like this I started in June.
I've been around a couple of dyno tests on air intakes and this is what I've seen:
An air intake ALWAYS gave gains when installed, although by themselves they were not significant.
Intakes that take cooler air outside the engine bay gave better gains (7-10 RWHP) than those that took air from inside the engine bay BUT gave a richer A/F ratio which would result in more fuel being burned and lesser fuel economy.
Intakes that draw warmer air from inside the engine bay did not show the gains of cooler air units (only about 2-5 RWHP) but resulted in the PCM leaning the mix out which would give better fuel economy.
Also found that a CAI added to other mods such as headers or at least a better flowing system to include higher flowing cats and muffler gave significantly better gains than when added to a stock exhaust system.
IMO if you don't plan on other "breathing" mods, pop in a higher flowing, premium filter and call it a day. If you plan on optimizing the rest of the intake/exhaust system, then opt for an intake system...
An air intake ALWAYS gave gains when installed, although by themselves they were not significant.
Intakes that take cooler air outside the engine bay gave better gains (7-10 RWHP) than those that took air from inside the engine bay BUT gave a richer A/F ratio which would result in more fuel being burned and lesser fuel economy.
Intakes that draw warmer air from inside the engine bay did not show the gains of cooler air units (only about 2-5 RWHP) but resulted in the PCM leaning the mix out which would give better fuel economy.
Also found that a CAI added to other mods such as headers or at least a better flowing system to include higher flowing cats and muffler gave significantly better gains than when added to a stock exhaust system.
IMO if you don't plan on other "breathing" mods, pop in a higher flowing, premium filter and call it a day. If you plan on optimizing the rest of the intake/exhaust system, then opt for an intake system...



