2 electric fans new waterpump full of coolant 180-stat running hot 3/4 of the stock gauge hot. Also just installed a trans temp gauge showing 190 at driving temp. Burped the radiator hose, does our system have an air bleeder? Also what is the proper way to put freeon in a system, rev the motor and shake the can? Side note finishing up my motor install my buddy put my headers back on my truck the passengerside leaked. (metal gaskets) Bought new gaskets Fel pro metal on one side leaked again took the truck to a muffler shop they said the leak was where the header meets the head. My buddy said the header was probably warped. what do you all think?

 

The first thing I would check is the E fan. See if it's doing its job. Is it specific to the truck? Our trucks don't have a air bleeder for the cooling system. In order to burp it, park it on a hill (front pointing up) or put it on jack stands and turn the truck on. take the rad cap off and wait for the stat to open. Let it run for a while and fill as needed. As far as the heads go, I don't know...

 

the fans are 2-16inch rated at 2500 cfm a piece. the block is also bored .020 over. Already did the incline thing. Maybe its the gauge. Maybe i can double up the header gaskets.

 

dont double header gasket the header flange wont warp enough to leak depending on the brand of headers alot of them only weld on the inside of the tubes at the flange and they tend to crack. i had the same problem so i went with obx racing headers they weld the inside and outside and i love them. as for the overheating my truck will run 3/4 of the way as well it does that because the electric fans dont pull enough air across the radiator to keep them at the stock temp i finally just pulled deleted my t-stat and i have never had a problem since. i'm running cooling fans off a c6.

 

what to do

 

when are the fans kicking on? pushing/pulling? might take it to a radiator shop and they can check the temp with a temp gun...... to check the header for warp, place a straightedge on the mating surface, they torqued properly?

 

the fans are pulling i'll double check the headers for torque and i think it may just be the gauge because coolant would have been spewing out of the overflow bottle and it wasn't. I'll double check my connections tomorrow.

 

the truck is at 200 in the shade about 230 driving around town. checked the connections at the gauge temp sensor they were good. what do youall think.

 

Measure the actual temperature rather than relying upon the dash gauge. If it's actually hitting 230 the service life of the engine is being rapidly reduced, so it's important to discover and correct the cause.

The easy way to get a pretty darn close measurement is to find a clean, unpainted spot on the water neck (thermostat housing) and probe it with a contact temperature probe (the sort that plugs into a digital multimeter). Add a few degrees to the measurement.

 

checked the temp with a pyrometer the gauge isn't malfunctioning. Bought a 180 stat gunna install the see how it goes.