was looking at ur pics the last photo.. wut kind of throttle body it looks good!

 

I didn't read everything in this thread but I do have some experience with the non-adjustable HS 1.7 RR's. I got no intructions with my RR's so I did not know wether to install them the guide plates or not. On the 5.2L that I originally put them on I installed without guideplates because I heard somewhere that you were supposed to remove them (it wasn't this site).

On my 5.9L I was going to put them in with the guideplates as I thought I messed up the first time. When I tried to put them together I could not. The roller rocker pedestal is large and round and will not fit into the guide plates (the OEM rockers have small square bases). This was enough for me to confirm (others may come to a different conclusion) that they were to be intalled with no guideplates. The new roller rockers do not need the guide plates to stay straight anyway as they are conencted together by a pin in the pivot bearing.

Mine were torqued to the service manual spec for the oringinal rockers of 21ftlbs. Between both motors I have had over 15K trouble and noise free miles (with the rockers, plenty of other problems and noises elsewhere).

 

Looks like a Hughes billet throttle body

 

okkay.. so i read a couple of other threads about these roller rockers and this one seemed to stay on topic even after 3 pages.. so. do you have to turn the motor over to tdc for every cylindor or just bolt on and ride then re check every now and then... ive seen so many diff opinions. what is the easiest and fastest way? (know it aintgo be no thiryt minutes lol) ..

 

you just bolt them on. No need for turning the engine AT ALL. Take off the covers, uninstall stock, install HR rockers. Even a politician can do it.

Mine came with no instructions, just know 24 ft lbs of torque. I guessed at 48 ft lbs, so they are double torqued. I think 24 ft lbs is more important to do if you have ALUMINUM heads and the ADJUSTABLE rockers. THere is no preload on non adjustable rockers.

 

I will respectfully disagree, you need to get the engine off a fully lifted lobe to torque them down.

I broke one just this summer because I torqued down a pair that had the exhaust at zero lift and the intake at full lift. I started with the exhaust side first and as I was tightening it down, I snapped the pivot cylinder inside the rocker arm, as the angle of the connecting arm was too great. If you choose not to rotate the engine off the lobes, be sure to torque down the lifted lobe first.

 

I did mine with out turning the motor. I just alternated between the two rockers. Tightening each a little at a time.

 

I did mine without turning the motor as well.

 

Can you torque down your stock rockers without rotating the motor?

 

the thing about the H&S non-adjustable rocker rollers is that they are pedestal mounted.. if the pedestal is absolutely flat on the boss, then they aren't going to get any closer, right? all you're doing is seating the threads as tightly as required to keep them there..

the OE stamped rockers sit on the little guide plates.. It's been a good long while since I've held those in my hand, but if I recall correctly, they are somewhat U shaped when viewed from the side- as in, there 'profile shot' is a flat U... I'm thinking they too can be torqued without turning the motor AS LONG AS you get the plate side FLAT on the bosses.. the little U shape provides resistance to keep them snug..

if the valve is in a position to keep the pedestals or the plates from sitting snugly flat to the bosses, you're going to hafta rotate the engine.. fwiw, I don't recall having to tighten the rockers down any more after I rotated the engine, but I rotated to engine all the same to make sure they weren't torqued against the pressure of the spring and not the boss itself..

about 10k miles since install- they are still snug, though I haven't taken a torque wrench to them to determine if they are still at the same torque..