BWAHAWHAWHAWHAWHAWHAW!!!! Do you even know how to turn a wrench? Seriously, these engines are so easy to rebuild it isn't even funny.

 

 

I'm gonna focus on the top end for now. Cash is really tight and I've gotta rebuild the front end as well.

 

Rex knows what he's doing. Don't know about the OP.

 

haha aim I've been working on cars since I was able to walk. I've fixed everything thats been wrong with my truck so far. Plenum, brakes, put on the lift, alternator, every sensor known to man and his brother, ball joints, sway bar end links, shocks, temperature sensors/thermostats galore. From what I've learned by working on this truck, I could write an abridged chilton's manual

 

The short blocks in these trucks are pretty stout.... if oil pressure is good, replacement heads can be had for fairly cheap. Under 300 bucks a whack from Clearwater, and they are better than the stock heads. (more robust, less prone to cracking.)

For a bit more, you can upgrade to bigger valve heads...... If you don't wanna spend the money for a full rebuild, either way is a viable option. Full rebuild wouldn't hurt.... but, can get expensive. Questionable on what is cheaper between new motor, or rebuild though. Price it out several ways, see which one has more appeal.

 

Yes they are. That is one reason why I suggested to the OP to run a full compression test to get an idea of the engine's condition. I've torn apart many 150k-plus engines and more often than not, the lower end will need a lot of work (bores, pistons, and rings especially) before bolting down that new pair of heads. I was LUCKY with the DOGG because the original owner had changed the oil every 2k and really babied the truck. You can look at some of the pics on my user page. Plus, that engine only had 96k on it. It still had cross-hatch in the bores and the compression levels were still even and like new. The rule of thumb is to never bolt down new/rebuilt heads on a worn-out block or it will burn oil and smoke. I realize that there are exceptions to this, but it's something to consider, especially if you're going to increase HP with mods later.

If this is your daily driver that you depend on, and you don't have easy access to a good machine shop, etc., then I suggest going the long-block route. Yes, it's probably a little more expensive than doing everything piece by piece, but you also have to factor in your time and keeping your sanity with vendors. I've done it both ways and the long-block wins hands down. Just remember to check clearances, etc. and retorque everything on the long block befor installing it.

 

Now after doing the head gaskets and regrinding new valve seats the p305 misfire code is back, but the truck is running very smooth. After a WOT throttle run I get this code. What gives?

 

You check the heads for cracks?

 

Yep. I leak tested em as well. They were cracked on cylinders 7 and 1. Not in the #5 combustion chamber.