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quad 4x4 axle seal kit- found everything but petroleum jelly?

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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 01:05 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by zman17
He's getting deeper and deeper for no good reason(at least not that we know of). Which is why I asked why he's replacing the fork.The shoes/pads on the end of the fork can be replaced. And although this place is great, a little more research and maybe a manual purchase or download on his part, would have proved more than beneficial for a job like this. Just sayin'
maybe he's tested the cad and found it to be sticky, or the shaft to be rusty and he's fixing it. i hope so, otherwise there is no damn reason to remove the fork from the shaft.

matt, when you reinstall the collar, note the tapered side goes to the outside. i think? yes i'm sure. maybe. yes i'm definitely sure. i hope.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 01:21 PM
  #22  
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yea thats what the quad 4x4 manual said. and yes my 4wd takes too long to enagage so im replacing the fork and verifying that the colllar transitions smoothly. now i just have to figure out how to get that bearing out. sorry if im annoying the crap outta you guys i just want to make sure everythings right and you guys seem to know your stuff
 
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 01:27 PM
  #23  
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test the fits first, as removal of the bearing is 50/50 that you might destroy it.
if you ruin it, then you lose the option of leaving it in.

to remove it, use a slide hammer type action. hook it from the inside with a 90* tool. try to catch it at the outer sleeve of the bearing cage, rather than the inner. then yank it or hammer it out, switching sides as needed. the cage will likely be damaged and ruined.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 01:44 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by matty675
yea thats what the quad 4x4 manual said. and yes my 4wd takes too long to enagage so im replacing the fork and verifying that the colllar transitions smoothly. now i just have to figure out how to get that bearing out. sorry if im annoying the crap outta you guys i just want to make sure everythings right and you guys seem to know your stuff
LOL! The fork is not the problem. Like I said, the pads can be replaced. And if the bushing in the end of the outer shaft was bad, that's part of the problem. Along with the fact you may have a bad hose.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 04:31 PM
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o ok no big deal. guess i just have a brand new shift fork now . but anyhow shes all back together i decided that the plastic bushing had more play than the metal bearing so i left the bearing in there.


just have to fill her up and hope she dont leak!

but one final question, how does the vac line hook up? i want to say black is left red is right
 
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 04:42 PM
  #26  
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Good God man! Next time you tackle a job like this, do your research and take some pics! Those two lines should go into a rubber boot that would orient the lines upwards. In any freakin case! The red line connects to the passenger side.

And btw! Do you have a brand new shift fork that has new pads on it?
 
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 05:27 PM
  #27  
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yea i realized that the lines only go one way. yea brand new fork and pads.

now the 4x4 wont engage. i guess i need to open the cad back up. make sure of the following

the collar is as far to the right of the right axle shaft as possible?
the shift fork is engaged on the collar?

anything else?
 
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 05:28 PM
  #28  
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but hey no oil yet!
 
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 07:17 PM
  #29  
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wait a second, is the shift fork supposed to be all the way to the left and the collar engaged on both shafts before you put the cad cover on?
 
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 07:41 AM
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