LOL

 

^ lol...i love what some of those beer condoms say

 

Not getting any fuel pressure so looks like pump might be out. I used a test lite/probe to see if their was power to the pump and found one wire that showed power with the ignition on but the bulb was barely lit up.

I'm going to pick up a pump tonight and put it in. I also heard that the crank position sensor could cause it to act up as well.

 

That code: 37, as you are aware, is the TCC and, here's why it won't start. That solenoid MAY be shorted OR, the wiring harness that feeds to and from that IS shorting at where the wires exit the sensor body.

In either case, this ends up shorting the FIVE-VOLT SUPPLY at the PCM thus, shutting the PCM down completely thus, producing the SAME exact symptoms as a failed CKPS, CPS, TPS, MAP and VSS.

Those are off another five volt supply and, when and if any of those are shorting the supply, the PCM has an internal failsafe mechanism that prevents burning the power supply up.

When, the source within the PCM is shorted, NO POWER will be witnessed ANYWHERE other than B+ to the PDC. This means, the entire EFI system, the COM system, BUS, and OBD port will be totally dead under this short condition.

TO VERIFY:

Simply check the OBD port for BUS / COM signal with a hand held scan tool. IF NO BUS is witnessed, the PCM is DOWN. This is the fastest way of determining system status.

IF you do not possess a scan tool, simply verify two things:

1. Spark.

TEST: Take a spare ignition wire, place a plug on the end, and, ground it. Have someone turn it over while you observe if there's a spark or not.

2. POWER to the fuel pump at time of KEY <ON> event or, during starting.

TEST: backprobe the E-connector at the FUEL PUMP and verify 12 VDC is being sent to it during KEY <ON> event. This means, TURN KEY TO <ON>. You will have aproximately 2-3 seconds before power is cut by ASD relay (when engine is not rotating) At connector: RED is your HOT (+) and BLK is your NEG (-). Place a paperclip onto each of your meter probes and, wrap tape around at least one of them to prevent shorting out the supply. Insert the clips into the back-side of the connector until it engages with the metal pin-contacts inside the connector shell. Either you've got a 4-PIN or 8-PIN connector shell. If you've got the 4-PIN, HOT is on the far right and NEG is on far left. ( NOTE: From memory. It may be reversed. END NOTE)

IF you've got the latter style, there's only TWO 12AWG wires and, they are on a diagonal with, HOT in the lower RIGHT corner and NEG in the upper LEFT corner. NOTE: This may be reversed. Either way, you need to verify if you've got power before dropping in a new fuel pump. You may find the PUMP is not the root problem and, if it's not installed, you can return it and get your money back and put it towards a new solenoid.

This would also explain why the cluster is NOT ALIVE.

REMOVE and check the solenoid harness as well as the TCC for short condition.

CM

 

Hey CM, ok thanks I'll go to kragen or Napa and pick up a handheld scanner. Yes I'm getting power to the relay port 86 in the PDC with the ignition on but I'm still not getting power to the 86 port for the starter relay.

I'll check all the wiring from the starter, PDC box, etc. tonight.

Thanks, George

 

Ok didn't see the other test method before my last post. I will try testing the pump that way first.

I'm getting spark.

 

Thanks everyone. Got it running it was the fuel pump. Getting alot of water out of the tail pipe but I'm hoping that's just from setting for a while.