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Truck Quit!!!

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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 12:37 PM
  #11  
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haha, well, some body work on the cab corner but thats it...then i took it out of garage and drove it maybe 5kms...parked it and then tried to go to work this morning and 1km done the road this happened!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks
Brad
 
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by yzinger
and the truck would turn over great while this was happening? - Cause this truck still turns over very good.
Im not sure if you were referring to my post or someone else's but it turned over a little harder than normal but not alot harder. It idled fine and even would back up fine, it was just when I let off the gas it would die. I think the new terminal was like $3.00.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 03:03 PM
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well mine would not even start...i just wanted to ensure people knew that the truck turns over great...just no start.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 03:25 PM
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check you coil. its on the front of the engine, by the overflow tank. pull the wire off wire the coil off make sure the boot is dry and try again. that happens to me all the time. invest in some dielectric grease. it works wonders!
 
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 03:30 PM
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Thanks very much guys for all your help...keep them coming, I promise to post what ends up fixing it. As noted, i firmly believe it something wet. Find out in 30-60 mins.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2010 | 03:02 AM
  #16  
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Make sure to check your torque converter connector at the transmission. I went through an entire electrical system. It turned out to be bare wires at the plug. My truck died at an intersection. Cranked fine, juice all over electrical system, but none to coil. I was puzzled until I tore out the wiring harness and discovered the bare wires by the connector plug. Check to see if ASD clicks/engages, if not it might just be the issue I described.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2010 | 01:12 PM
  #17  
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Thanks guys. Got truck home today, $45 and a tow truck!

Anyways, this morning i verified i hear fuel pump, sounds like ASD is engaging. I smell fuel. But, now that it is home i will really be able to tear into it...if i can push it in the garage ; )

Feel free to shoot me more info, for instance, where do i find this torque conv connection on my 95, also, anyway to verify if coil is ok? etc...

Thanks again all,
Brad
 
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Old Nov 6, 2010 | 01:46 PM
  #18  
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Were you welding on that cab corner? If so did you disconnect the batt. If I am doing any welding on boat,veichel always disconnect the batt before you do any welding. You can fry electronic things very fast. Pick up an inline spark tester at your auto parts store (cheap) and test for spark.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2010 | 06:14 PM
  #19  
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naw...just body fill. Good advice though. I have heard some awful stories!

Brad
 
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 02:49 AM
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You can check to see if you juice to the coil by back-pinning the + wire from the back with a small paper clip then use a LED circuit tester while cranking the motor. If you have power to coil the light will flash on/off as you turn motor over. You will probably need someone help you with that part.
If you have power to coil from previous test then take coil off and grab an ohmmeter. This is to make test easier. First check your primary side pins of the coil. With a Diamond brand coil you should get a range between 0.97 to 1.18 ohms, Toyodenso range is 0.95 to 1.20 ohms. Now check your secondary side. Diamond brand will be 11,300 to 15,300 ohms, and Toyodenso will have 11,300 to 13,000 ohms.
If both of those tests prove to be good then check your resistance of coil wire to distributor. You should have less than 25,000 ohms.
If that proves good then check your cap and rotor. clean off excess carbon build up and the likes.
The fuel pump sounding and the ASD relay clicking is a very good sign. meaning that your PCM should still be in good shape. If you have no juice to coil my guess is either your camshaft sensor is bad or crankcase sensor is bad. It may very well be the wires or connections so I would definately check things out closly before buying parts until you fix problem. Another suggestion that will work in your favor would be to buy a manual at the parts store for your truck. They only cost about $20 to $30 and are worth every penny!!!!!!!!
To find the torque converter connector you need to get under truck obviously, locate your shift rod going into tranny. The connector goes in straight down vertically on the top of driver side about 3 to 4 inches from shift rod. There will be like 9 wires coming out of connector so it is fairly easy to distiguish from any other connector. Check to make sure all insulation is still intact. I found my insulation to be disintegrating approximately 1 to 1 1/2 inches from connector.
I hope this info is enough to get you rollin again.
 
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