Ok so when i turn my whole wheel wobbles, going down the road at 25 i can see it wobble, when i jack up my truck i can shake the wheel. Rotor and rim/tire are connected but they wobble. Cant get lug nuts off as they are too tight and no air tool or breaker bar, is it u-joints? Wheel bearings?

 

Yes that sounds like a bad wheel bearing.... You wouldn't have U-joints there anyways, as the Indy's are 2wd

 

is it the front or rear wheel that has a wobble...if you have play in the wheel it would be a wheel bearing not a driveshaft.

 

yeah i am assuming the indys had drums in the back so i assume you are talking about the front.

 

just limped it too the dodge dealership but they couldnt get me in, they say tie rod and wheel bearing from sound of it

 

so i was looking on some posts and wondered could it just be my bearing nut?

 

some of the older posts are confusing.
The old style timken tapered roller bearings used on the 2wd 2nd gens were tightened at a very low torque.
This style was changed to a hub unit which is tightened to about 180ft lbs (unsure of exact on 2wd but 180 or 190 seems to stick in my head).
When the change was made, I have no idea. but i would think your 96 would have the old style timken cup and cone type, which would mean you would save ALOT of money on your wheel bearing replacement.

Which leads me back to your post, why would you think it is the bearing nut that is the problem?
If it is loose it most likley is due to the bearing being bad.
IF it is the old style I would replace it if the nut is loose.

This probably didn't answer your question, did it....LOL

 

You're going to have to get under the rig, and look at it. Jack up the tire, and wiggle it. Either the lug nuts are loose, steering's hammered, bad ball joints, or hub bearing. Looking on the internet won't tell you what's wrong with your rig.

 

while its on the ground you can grab the tire, and pull it back and forth (hands on top of tire), you will be able to feel it the bearing its bad, you will feel a "popping" type feel.

 

^what he said
96 is cheap to replace the wheel bearings.
The castle nut is low torque, has a cap that goes on it with a cotterpin to hold it.
Pretty well impossible for it to back itself off so if there is play the bearings are gone.
I replaced my tie rod ends (in/out), balljoints u/l & the wheel bearings, only have 59k miles.
Lower bjoints & outer tie rods were shot, replaced the rest to be on the safe side.