In the middle of a heater core fix....Help!!!!
Ok so we have been working on this heater core for about 5 hours now and have gotten dissembled as the DIY instructions say. Were to the point now where we have to pull the A/C lines. I was wondering do you have to pull the A/C lines to remove the heater box? Rite now we can barley get the heater box to move. Also how much does it cost to get your A/C vacuumed or can you do it yourself. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
Last edited by losi8ight; Nov 6, 2010 at 03:33 PM. Reason: forgot to include something
There are 3 or 4 bolts through the firewall and two bolts inside the cab. Interior bolts: one is above the heater core, it has a grounding strap on it, the second is under the windshield post on the passenger side. Exterior bolts on firewall: (you have to remove the ecu and the metal plate the ecu attaches to) two bolts are behind this plate, one in area above distributor, and another somewhere between where the ac lines and heater lines come through the firewall.
Go ahead and buy your self about 6 feet of new heater hose (since the hose on the heater core inlet and outlet will need cut off). Get a big towel and bucket to catch the coolant. Also would be a good time to replace the a/c evap. Trust me those Dodge a/c evaps do and will go bad. As far as evacuating the a/c system I'm not saying you can't just disconnect the lines and whoooosh there goes the charge. But to be environmentally friendly, it should be evacuated by a shop.
to vacuum it yourself, you'd have to have a pump, gauge/valves/hoses, and a recovery tank. to have a shop vacuum it, you'd have to drive it there, which it sound like its a tad too late for that. recovering the r34 would save you about $20 or so. probably not worth it at this point. so if you need to disconnect the lines, just let it go whooosh. **** the environment.
Ok, first off thanks for all the help. Now, I think we did miss one bolt but its only a ground bolt that we missed. As for the A/C we did let the charge off and are trying to free the accumulator and the hoses that go through the firewall. So do the A/C hoses that go through the firewall have to be freed from the accumulator to let the heater box go free? One more question, when the truck is put all back together, will I have to vacuum the system before I can recharge it?
call around, prices vary a lot. let them know its empty, as it'll cost a little more than a top off.
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Good job on gettin 'er done, and now a suggestion; Whatever shop you take it to, do inform them of what you did and advise to double check that the lines into the evaporator are fully connected. I can't even begin to describe how PO'd we get when they blow off in the middle of a service because someone didn't get them shoved on all the way. They can feel quite secure and still not have gotten the spring over the flare.



