Bigger Alt??
#12
#13
#14
Agreed. The factory alternators put out more than enough power to run all the truck's factory components plus a couple accessories without taxing it.
#16
#17
I could be so wrong on this that it's not even funny, however in my experiments, if the A/C runs just fine you don't have an amps issue. If you crank the AC full cold and the clutch will not run more than a few seconds at a time then you prob have an amp/voltage issue.
As soon as you exceed amp draw, the AC will cycle long enough for the computer to register the drop and gain. When my POS E-fan is on my AC will not run. As soon as it kicks on I register a .4 drop in voltage (or there abouts) and the ac kicks off. Couple of seconds later after the voltage has climbed back up the AC will kick on again and then off.
Once the E-Fan is disconnected from the circuit it will take a few AC clutch cycles to return to normal operation.
Assuming you have fused all your accessories, when you disconnect all the add-ons do you lights still "blink"? How about when the truck is NOT running. This should take your charging system out of the equation.
As soon as you exceed amp draw, the AC will cycle long enough for the computer to register the drop and gain. When my POS E-fan is on my AC will not run. As soon as it kicks on I register a .4 drop in voltage (or there abouts) and the ac kicks off. Couple of seconds later after the voltage has climbed back up the AC will kick on again and then off.
Once the E-Fan is disconnected from the circuit it will take a few AC clutch cycles to return to normal operation.
Assuming you have fused all your accessories, when you disconnect all the add-ons do you lights still "blink"? How about when the truck is NOT running. This should take your charging system out of the equation.
#18
I could be so wrong on this that it's not even funny, however in my experiments, if the A/C runs just fine you don't have an amps issue. If you crank the AC full cold and the clutch will not run more than a few seconds at a time then you prob have an amp/voltage issue.
As soon as you exceed amp draw, the AC will cycle long enough for the computer to register the drop and gain. When my POS E-fan is on my AC will not run. As soon as it kicks on I register a .4 drop in voltage (or there abouts) and the ac kicks off. Couple of seconds later after the voltage has climbed back up the AC will kick on again and then off.
Once the E-Fan is disconnected from the circuit it will take a few AC clutch cycles to return to normal operation.
Assuming you have fused all your accessories, when you disconnect all the add-ons do you lights still "blink"? How about when the truck is NOT running. This should take your charging system out of the equation.
As soon as you exceed amp draw, the AC will cycle long enough for the computer to register the drop and gain. When my POS E-fan is on my AC will not run. As soon as it kicks on I register a .4 drop in voltage (or there abouts) and the ac kicks off. Couple of seconds later after the voltage has climbed back up the AC will kick on again and then off.
Once the E-Fan is disconnected from the circuit it will take a few AC clutch cycles to return to normal operation.
Assuming you have fused all your accessories, when you disconnect all the add-ons do you lights still "blink"? How about when the truck is NOT running. This should take your charging system out of the equation.
Dude, a compressor clutch coil on any normal automobile only draws 3-6 amps, and that's through the relay. The relay control circuit from the PCM is a fraction of that.
As well, the compressor runs the same no matter where you have the temperature control set. Vent temp is regulated via the blend door. When the compressor clutch is on, it's on all the way, period.
A/C compressors cycle because the pressure needs to be regulated. Except for variable compressors, the clutch cycling on and off frequently means the system is working correctly.
Bottom line, if he determines that the combined load of factory electrical components and the accessories he runs constantly exceed 80% of the alternator's rated output, he needs a bigger unit. If it's things like a winch, that are going to have a high draw for a limited duration and relatively infrequently, then a dual battery set-up is the way to go.
Last edited by Sixtysixdeuce; 11-08-2010 at 04:25 PM.
#19
What????
Dude, a compressor clutch coil on any normal automobile only draws 3-6 amps, and that's through the relay. The relay control circuit from the PCM is a fraction of that.
As well, the compressor runs the same no matter where you have the temperature control set. Vent temp is regulated via the blend door. When the compressor clutch is on, it's on all the way, period.
A/C compressors cycle because the pressure needs to be regulated. Except for variable compressors, the clutch cycling on and off frequently means the system is working correctly.
Bottom line, if he determines that the combined load of factory electrical components and the accessories he runs constantly exceed 80% of the alternator's rated output, he needs a bigger unit. If it's things like a winch, that are going to have a high draw for a limited duration and relatively infrequently, then a dual battery set-up is the way to go.
Dude, a compressor clutch coil on any normal automobile only draws 3-6 amps, and that's through the relay. The relay control circuit from the PCM is a fraction of that.
As well, the compressor runs the same no matter where you have the temperature control set. Vent temp is regulated via the blend door. When the compressor clutch is on, it's on all the way, period.
A/C compressors cycle because the pressure needs to be regulated. Except for variable compressors, the clutch cycling on and off frequently means the system is working correctly.
Bottom line, if he determines that the combined load of factory electrical components and the accessories he runs constantly exceed 80% of the alternator's rated output, he needs a bigger unit. If it's things like a winch, that are going to have a high draw for a limited duration and relatively infrequently, then a dual battery set-up is the way to go.
Still doesn't change the fact that you can use the AC clutch circuit as a pretty good indicator to let you know electrical system is or close to being maxed out. It's unlikely the head light circuit is the one that engineers designed as non-critical..... Dude!
#20
For one, the PCM only monitors total system voltage. It can't see amp draw. That's why there are fuses and circuit breakers.
The computer doesn't disable select circuits when the system draw is too high; you simply loose some current to all electrical components, and it drags the engine down, even makes the belt squeal trying to spin the alternator under such heavy load. If the heavy draw continues long enough, you smoke the alternator.
Are you suggesting that the PCM also controls exterior lighting? I really wanna know where you get this stuff. It's pretty evident at this point that you like to speculate, but really have very little understanding of automotive electrical and air conditioning systems.
Last edited by Sixtysixdeuce; 11-09-2010 at 02:40 AM.