2500 Stalling When Cold
Hi everyone
I have a 2000 Ram 2500 5.9L V8 gasoline. It stalls when cold, though it runs great when warm. It idles at 600rpm and has 300,000+ miles on its original engine and transmission.
It's reliable except that, when the engine is cold in a morning and I put it under load, e.g. climbing a hill, it stalls. It starts again instantly but will stall again until the engine is thoroughly warm.
I recently tuned it up, replaced plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor button and air filter.
I have tried "Tranny Honey" but no difference. Anyone any ideas why it should do this, and how I can resolve it? It can get a little hairy if I'm pulling away from a stop sign and the engine dies.
Thanks!
Rick
I have a 2000 Ram 2500 5.9L V8 gasoline. It stalls when cold, though it runs great when warm. It idles at 600rpm and has 300,000+ miles on its original engine and transmission.
It's reliable except that, when the engine is cold in a morning and I put it under load, e.g. climbing a hill, it stalls. It starts again instantly but will stall again until the engine is thoroughly warm.
I recently tuned it up, replaced plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor button and air filter.
I have tried "Tranny Honey" but no difference. Anyone any ideas why it should do this, and how I can resolve it? It can get a little hairy if I'm pulling away from a stop sign and the engine dies.
Thanks!
Rick
when you crank it first thing in the morning, do you get a fast idle of about 1000 rpm while its cold?
and does it stall when you let off the gas, or does it stall while you have your foot in the throttle?
and does it stall when you let off the gas, or does it stall while you have your foot in the throttle?
Hi!
Thanks for the reply.
Fast idle when starting from cold is 950 rpm, and it ALWAYS stalls when I let off the gas at the top of my 1000' uphill driveway, just before I turn onto the public road.
It occasionally stalls when I stop at a stop sign about 3/4 mile further on too, but it behaves from that point onwards.
Thanks
Rick
Thanks for the reply.
Fast idle when starting from cold is 950 rpm, and it ALWAYS stalls when I let off the gas at the top of my 1000' uphill driveway, just before I turn onto the public road.
It occasionally stalls when I stop at a stop sign about 3/4 mile further on too, but it behaves from that point onwards.
Thanks
Rick
this might fix it or it might be a waste of your $40-50, but i'd guess that the IAC is working correctly and the TPS is not. available at any parts store.
keep your old one until proven bad. its nice to have a spare for blind swaps.
keep your old one until proven bad. its nice to have a spare for blind swaps.
I replaced the TPS about four months ago, when it failed and the engine would rev uncontrollably.
It was only about $30 but I'm happy to try it again. I'll let you know if that solves the problem.
Thanks again
It was only about $30 but I'm happy to try it again. I'll let you know if that solves the problem.
Thanks again
Just realized that my cruise, which always worked perfectly, is now non-functioning, and the Check Engine light has now come on for a bad O2 sensor in the bank near the catalytic converter.
Do you know if a dodgy O2 sensor could cause the stalling / cruise control problems?
Do you know if a dodgy O2 sensor could cause the stalling / cruise control problems?
I was going to reply yesterday that it could be the precat o2 for the stalling issue, but that won't effect the CC issue. You might have a vacuum leak causing the CC not to work. Check all the vac line's. There is also one that goes to the CC module under the battery tray. Check the module itself for cracks too.
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Thanks everyone for your input.
Opened the hood this morning and discovered one end of a heavy-gauge red wire hanging in mid-air. The other end is attached to a fuse-holder (containing a 30A fuse) mounted on top of a plastic case next to the battery, see pic below...
Engine still started and ran without it connected, and the other end of it disappears through the firewall into the cab behind the dash. I could only assume it had come off the battery + post, and so I have reconnected it, but nothing seems to have changed, whether it is connected or not.
I read the fault code this morning and it came up as 0128, which is the code for an O2 sensor, high voltage, cylinder bank 1, sensor 2.
Problem is, I have two O2 sensors, one before the cat and one after it, so which is sensor 2? I called the local Dodge dealer, who unconvincingly told me it was the post-cat one.
In the reply above, I see that pre-cat is suggested as being faulty.
So, I'm a little confused. Is sensor 2 pre- or post-cat?
I also checked vac hoses and they appear to be OK. I haven't yet removed the battery to access the cruise control servo unit.
Opened the hood this morning and discovered one end of a heavy-gauge red wire hanging in mid-air. The other end is attached to a fuse-holder (containing a 30A fuse) mounted on top of a plastic case next to the battery, see pic below...
Engine still started and ran without it connected, and the other end of it disappears through the firewall into the cab behind the dash. I could only assume it had come off the battery + post, and so I have reconnected it, but nothing seems to have changed, whether it is connected or not.
I read the fault code this morning and it came up as 0128, which is the code for an O2 sensor, high voltage, cylinder bank 1, sensor 2.
Problem is, I have two O2 sensors, one before the cat and one after it, so which is sensor 2? I called the local Dodge dealer, who unconvincingly told me it was the post-cat one.
In the reply above, I see that pre-cat is suggested as being faulty.
So, I'm a little confused. Is sensor 2 pre- or post-cat?
I also checked vac hoses and they appear to be OK. I haven't yet removed the battery to access the cruise control servo unit.







