Heater core replacement instructions.
#11
11-24-2010, 09:05 AM
Now the fun part getting the new one in. This not an easy task I must say. But if you move the two tubes in just the right spot you can slide it in. Don't be afraid to tweak the core / tubes you can straighten every thing out once you get the core in the heater box.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/12.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/11.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/10.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/12.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/11.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/10.jpg
Hopefully I can get this finished up this weekend.
#12
11-24-2010, 12:55 PM
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Sorry I did not get pictures of as it was going it But both hands were full.
Something to try grab the metal strap on the dash it is behind the second hole from the end on the passengers side. Now pull out because you are pulling on the metal strap it should not hurt the dash.
That strap is what is preventing the core from just dropping in.
Something to try grab the metal strap on the dash it is behind the second hole from the end on the passengers side. Now pull out because you are pulling on the metal strap it should not hurt the dash.
That strap is what is preventing the core from just dropping in.
#13
11-24-2010, 01:38 PM
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I'm glad it worked for you also.. so much easier..but not for the faint of heart..cause yes you do need to tweak a lil on core.. but nothing that hurts it..and was I wrong?? about how long it takes 
.. took ya about 2 hours from start to finish?
.. took ya about 2 hours from start to finish? My friend thank you for this. I knew there was a way around the A/C discharging.
I have to give something back so here you go a picture is worth a thousand words.
After pulling the dash back remove the glove box, looking throw you can see the core.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hegurl/2-6.jpg
You need to work throw the glove box and the passenger side Aperale hole
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...egurl/1-26.jpg
Looking throw the passenger side dash.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hegurl/7-1.jpg
Now cut the two pipes off how ever you can I used a cut off saw.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hegurl/5-2.jpg
The core will now pull out with a little wiggling and pulling.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/8.jpg
Now the fun part getting the new one in. This not an easy task I must say. But if you move the two tubes in just the right spot you can slide it in. Don't be afraid to tweak the core / tubes you can straighten every thing out once you get the core in the heater box.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/12.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/11.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/10.jpg
FYI this is the shifter cable you need to remove.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/13.jpg
This is what my heater core looked like "I thing I should have done this 2 years ago"
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hegurl/4-2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hegurl/3-2.jpg
I hope this somehow gets to the DIY section I have found this way a lot easier and you do not need to mess with the A/C freon.
I have to give something back so here you go a picture is worth a thousand words.
After pulling the dash back remove the glove box, looking throw you can see the core.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hegurl/2-6.jpg
You need to work throw the glove box and the passenger side Aperale hole
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...egurl/1-26.jpg
Looking throw the passenger side dash.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hegurl/7-1.jpg
Now cut the two pipes off how ever you can I used a cut off saw.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hegurl/5-2.jpg
The core will now pull out with a little wiggling and pulling.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/8.jpg
Now the fun part getting the new one in. This not an easy task I must say. But if you move the two tubes in just the right spot you can slide it in. Don't be afraid to tweak the core / tubes you can straighten every thing out once you get the core in the heater box.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/12.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/11.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/10.jpg
FYI this is the shifter cable you need to remove.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/13.jpg
This is what my heater core looked like "I thing I should have done this 2 years ago"
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hegurl/4-2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hegurl/3-2.jpg
I hope this somehow gets to the DIY section I have found this way a lot easier and you do not need to mess with the A/C freon.
Last edited by Baddnet; 11-24-2010 at 04:55 PM.
#14
11-24-2010, 04:40 PM
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Will about 2 hours I had to stop and tack pictures. But I must say vary easy repair. I bet this is how the steelership dose it, Then bill you for 8 book hours.
Again thank you Baddnet I hope I made it a little easier for others with the pictures.
Took the truck for a drive to day man o man the heater gets hot now
Again thank you Baddnet I hope I made it a little easier for others with the pictures.
Took the truck for a drive to day man o man the heater gets hot now
#15
11-25-2010, 02:02 PM
#16
11-25-2010, 05:57 PM
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#17
11-25-2010, 07:39 PM
Well it's back together.... mostly. Got everything plugged in, and the dash back up in place with the bolts in the sides and two screws top in place, so it's in position.
Now the issue..... the heat/air only blows through the defrost vents by the windshield. I know the control is connected, as it turns it on and off. But it doesn't seem to have any effect on where the air comes out. I thought at first maybe the dash just wasn't pushed up far enough to connect with the airbox, but it's there.
Also usually you hear a noise when switching vent controls from the servo motors or vent doors closing. Can't hear anything.
Well it's dark now, so I guess I'll pull the dash back off tomorrow, and see if somethings not connected right.
Looking on the positive side, I suppose if you had to pick only one vent for the heat to blow out of, the defrost would be it.
Now the issue..... the heat/air only blows through the defrost vents by the windshield. I know the control is connected, as it turns it on and off. But it doesn't seem to have any effect on where the air comes out. I thought at first maybe the dash just wasn't pushed up far enough to connect with the airbox, but it's there.
Also usually you hear a noise when switching vent controls from the servo motors or vent doors closing. Can't hear anything.
Well it's dark now, so I guess I'll pull the dash back off tomorrow, and see if somethings not connected right.
Looking on the positive side, I suppose if you had to pick only one vent for the heat to blow out of, the defrost would be it.
#19
11-25-2010, 11:03 PM
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Well it's back together.... mostly. Got everything plugged in, and the dash back up in place with the bolts in the sides and two screws top in place, so it's in position.
Now the issue..... the heat/air only blows through the defrost vents by the windshield. I know the control is connected, as it turns it on and off. But it doesn't seem to have any effect on where the air comes out. I thought at first maybe the dash just wasn't pushed up far enough to connect with the airbox, but it's there.
Also usually you hear a noise when switching vent controls from the servo motors or vent doors closing. Can't hear anything.
Well it's dark now, so I guess I'll pull the dash back off tomorrow, and see if somethings not connected right.
Looking on the positive side, I suppose if you had to pick only one vent for the heat to blow out of, the defrost would be it.
Now the issue..... the heat/air only blows through the defrost vents by the windshield. I know the control is connected, as it turns it on and off. But it doesn't seem to have any effect on where the air comes out. I thought at first maybe the dash just wasn't pushed up far enough to connect with the airbox, but it's there.
Also usually you hear a noise when switching vent controls from the servo motors or vent doors closing. Can't hear anything.
Well it's dark now, so I guess I'll pull the dash back off tomorrow, and see if somethings not connected right.
Looking on the positive side, I suppose if you had to pick only one vent for the heat to blow out of, the defrost would be it.
#20
11-26-2010, 12:02 PM
Lol, yeah forgot to reconnect the vacuum line cluster plug under the dash. I remember looking at yesterday wondering what it was. Reconnected and vents operate normally. Now to proceed with the rest of reassembly.
Speaking of vacuum leaks, I have the switch to defrost on acceleration issue as well which apparently is typically indicative of bad check valve in the engine compartment.
Speaking of vacuum leaks, I have the switch to defrost on acceleration issue as well which apparently is typically indicative of bad check valve in the engine compartment.
Last edited by Dodge33; 11-26-2010 at 12:04 PM.