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How do I do a tranny flush?

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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 07:29 PM
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Default How do I do a tranny flush?

I know I have to drop down the tranny pan and get rid of some of the transmission fluid that way. That's obvious. My question is regarding the torque converter. I want to get all of the fluid out of the torque converter as well. I have heard that some people will just run the truck without a pan and continually add ATF while the truck is running to "bleed" out the old fluid if you will, with new fluid. Anyone ever done a tranny flush by hand and had good luck with it? Any ideas on this? Let me know. Cheers and beers!
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 07:36 PM
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why do you wanna flush it in the first place? on older systems, your just asking for trouble (leaks).
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 08:00 PM
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Not to mention you circulate all the crap in your system thru the trans..... Not a good plan. Just change the fluid and filter, and be done with it.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 08:17 PM
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don't do that, the fluid circulates FAST you dont want to run it dry no no, just pull the pan and then pull the inspection cover, rotate the flexplate until you see a bolt in the middle of the torque converter, pull it and it will drain the torque converter aswell
now I'm new to the dodge world but am plenty farmiliar with Fords, my referencing is from me playing with e4od and 4r100 trannys so it might be a little different with these, I cant check for you because I havent picked up my truck yet.

Also put a new filter in, and a big auxillary tranny cooler never hurts anything.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 08:20 PM
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Don't even drop the pan if you want to flush. Take off the trans cooler line at the cooler (the one from the trans to the cooler, not the return). Aim the cooler line into a bucket. It's best to have 2 people, so one can start the truck, and the other can watch how much is going into the bucket. Start the truck, and put it in neutral, as Dodge trans pumps don't pump in Park. It'll pump out 4 or 5 quarts of fluid until it starts to sputter instead of a steady flow of fluid. Shut the truck off, and refill however much you lost. You might drive the truck a while and repeat if you want more fresh fluid mixed in. Done.

Or buy this:
http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7400-L...ef=pd_sbs_sg_2
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 08:23 PM
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First, get a five gallon bucket and mark it in increments of quarts. Then get a helper. Remove the return line from the radiator or aux cooler, and place a hose on the outlet from the radiator or cooler that can be run into the bucket. Get your ATF ready to pour.

Start the engine, and shift the transmission into neutral to get the fluid moving. While one of you pours in a quart of fluid for every one pumped out, the other shifts the transmission through the quadrants so all circuits will flow. A few times through will do it. When you see clean new fluid being pumped out, stop the engine, reconnect the lines, and decide if you want to go whole hog or not.

If you want to go whole hog, drop the pan and change the filter. If not, just top up the ATF as necessary. You might wish to replace the filter and then do as I always do: install a remote ATF filter in the line from the trans to the radiator so the filter in the pan never needs changing again. Putting the remote filter in place of the failure prone check valve both eliminates that failure and gets you the anti-drainback valve (built into the filter itself) to keep the converter full. Just be sure you get the remote filter installed properly -- get the inlet and outlet crossed and no fluid will flow.

You can't really run the thing without the pan in place as the pan is what the pump draws from.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by HankHill
Well, you will want to change the filter so... it might be a good idea to drop the pan, plus you can give the inside of the pan a nice cleaning with some carb clean or brakekleen and get all the goopy crap out, if you want to take it further you could look into a b&m shift kit for your tranny too if you decide to pull the pan.

However I'm not sure if B&M offers shiftkits for these trucks. Somthing you can look into

but as far as pulling the pan it only takes an extra 15 minutes
Don't forget the required shower afterward, to get all the trans fluid out of your hair, and various other body parts.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 08:30 PM
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Well, you will want to change the filter so... it might be a good idea to drop the pan, plus you can give the inside of the pan a nice cleaning with some carb clean or brakekleen and get all the goopy crap out, if you want to take it further you could look into a b&m shift kit for your tranny too if you decide to pull the pan.

However I'm not sure if B&M offers shiftkits for these trucks. Somthing you can look into

but as far as pulling the pan it only takes an extra 15 minutes
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by HankHill
ah you beat me to post

do these trucks come from factory with auxillary coolers ?
Some do, I think they came with the "heavy duty" package, and the "towing" package as well.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by UnregisteredUser
First, get a five gallon bucket and mark it in increments of quarts. Then get a helper. Remove the return line from the radiator or aux cooler, and place a hose on the outlet from the radiator or cooler that can be run into the bucket. Get your ATF ready to pour.

Start the engine, and shift the transmission into neutral to get the fluid moving. While one of you pours in a quart of fluid for every one pumped out, the other shifts the transmission through the quadrants so all circuits will flow. A few times through will do it. When you see clean new fluid being pumped out, stop the engine, reconnect the lines, and decide if you want to go whole hog or not.

If you want to go whole hog, drop the pan and change the filter. If not, just top up the ATF as necessary. You might wish to replace the filter and then do as I always do: install a remote ATF filter in the line from the trans to the radiator so the filter in the pan never needs changing again. Putting the remote filter in place of the failure prone check valve both eliminates that failure and gets you the anti-drainback valve (built into the filter itself) to keep the converter full. Just be sure you get the remote filter installed properly -- get the inlet and outlet crossed and no fluid will flow.

You can't really run the thing without the pan in place as the pan is what the pump draws from.
ah you beat me to post

do these trucks come from factory with auxillary coolers ?
 
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