Installed the hughes plenum repair kit and I believe I failed
FWIW, I've had no trouble on other engines replacing TTY's with common bolts and adding 10% to 20% to the specified torque. I always use threadlocker on everything that I expect to stay in place for a long time, and always chase (with a chaser, NOT a tap!) threads where torque is critical.
Unless I get a bad feeling about it when I have the intake manifold off I'm going to do the same thing with the kegger on my truck. It might be that some day my old truck is going to teach me that I shouldn't try to outsmart the factory engineers. Time will tell.
Oh, yeah: aim, putting a wrench on threadlocked bolts tends to break the threadlocker. Don't do that.
Unless I get a bad feeling about it when I have the intake manifold off I'm going to do the same thing with the kegger on my truck. It might be that some day my old truck is going to teach me that I shouldn't try to outsmart the factory engineers. Time will tell.
Oh, yeah: aim, putting a wrench on threadlocked bolts tends to break the threadlocker. Don't do that.
You're correct! Any time I "broke" a bolt to check, it was pulled and went back in with fresh threadlocker. I doubt removing one bolt at a time disturbed the clamping force on the gaskets that much.
Unfortunately for various reasons I've had to take the intake off the truck about 5 different times in the last 3 years, which is why I know the threadlocker was holding. This last time there has been no readjustment of torque. I'm satisfied it's doing its job.
And dry threadlocker is a pain in the butt to clean out of bolt threads. My teeth are getting a little worn...
No problem! 
It was an obvious and poor omission on my part. Had Joe Shadetree read that and did exactly what I wrote, he might have had an issue down the road. Clarification is a good thing.
I rarely get upset when anybody challenges my posts, as I've posted tons of misinformation on this and other forums as I am constantly learning new things and trying it a different way.
That's why I like this forum so much. It's got heavy traffic from lots of different users, all contributing little tidbits of knowledge and experiences. I learn a couple new things everyday, and the best ones are always the stuff you DON'T want to learn firsthand.
It was an obvious and poor omission on my part. Had Joe Shadetree read that and did exactly what I wrote, he might have had an issue down the road. Clarification is a good thing.
I rarely get upset when anybody challenges my posts, as I've posted tons of misinformation on this and other forums as I am constantly learning new things and trying it a different way.
That's why I like this forum so much. It's got heavy traffic from lots of different users, all contributing little tidbits of knowledge and experiences. I learn a couple new things everyday, and the best ones are always the stuff you DON'T want to learn firsthand.

Ain't that the truth? This is among the best, if not the very best, of the automotive forums I've seen. Here in the good looking (2nd gen) trucks section, anyway, since I don't read the others.
second gen people here are greatest!!! unfortunately some of the third gen's are real ***'s - enough so to chase away a great resource, HankL.
So I did some more work on the truck tonight and I have found nothing. I even replaced the plugs checked all of the plug wires rerouted the MAP sensor to make sure it was getting enough vacuum. It still backfires when I stomp on the gas, but not as much, there seems to be no power while driving the truck. I will put the pedal to the floor while taking of and it will backfire and never really rev out like it should. One thing that I have noticed is there is alot of white moisture rsidue under the oil filler cap and in the PCV valve which is telling me that there is coolant getting inton the motor. I am guessing it is getting in through the intake to head gasket at the coolant portS Son of a gun. Probably going to tear her back down this weekend and do it all again, Fun. Would a substantial amount of coolant getting into the engine cause the rnginr to backfire?
if you have a coolant leak at the intake, i'd expect a significant amount of milky white, chocolate milk look to the oil, a small amount at the top of the engine at the fill cap or pcv, but none in the oil is likely just condensation.
I often find that as cars get older, their drivers are usually more knowledgeable about how to fix them. The second gen Ram was the last Chrysler vehicle to run an engine that was essentially designed in the 70's and as such, there's been years of underhood knowledge about them out there. I'll take the advice of a 50+ year old shade tree over the advice of a 22 year old auto tech grad any day.
It is unfortunate that he doesn't post here any more. That guy has probably forgotten more about the internal combustion engine than most of us will ever know. Whenever I have a problem with my truck, I usually search for posts by him first. I find that the more I learn about my truck, the more I can glean from his posts. Perhaps one day I'll understand most of what he posted about.
I often find that as cars get older, their drivers are usually more knowledgeable about how to fix them. The second gen Ram was the last Chrysler vehicle to run an engine that was essentially designed in the 70's and as such, there's been years of underhood knowledge about them out there. I'll take the advice of a 50+ year old shade tree over the advice of a 22 year old auto tech grad any day.
I often find that as cars get older, their drivers are usually more knowledgeable about how to fix them. The second gen Ram was the last Chrysler vehicle to run an engine that was essentially designed in the 70's and as such, there's been years of underhood knowledge about them out there. I'll take the advice of a 50+ year old shade tree over the advice of a 22 year old auto tech grad any day.







