Is that considered
chunking or your failed attempt
At writing haiku?

 

Did you move the distributor at all? Not the cap, but the distributor...If you did move it, your fuel Sync is FUBARED.

 

It was blocked from the inside and is why I didn't mod the intake cause the EGR channel is part of the center divider and would had to recap it somewhere else. I don't have a picture, but have read here before that they are probably just left over intakes from before they didn't want to waste.

 

I dont believe that the wire is pinched but I will be checking into that. Also i am going to keep an eye on the coolant and what the oil looks like. I want to figure out the sluggish engine backfire before I do the tear down again. As far as a bad valve or timing, I did nothing with the valves or the timing and the truck ran decent before I took her apart to do the plenum repair. Truthfully I think that my backfire issue and lose of power issue has to do with the accell injectors I installed. When I removed my plugs they were black which means way to rich so maybe they are dumping way to much fuel under load.

 

If you still have your stock injectors, try sticking 'em back in there, and see if the problem goes away.

 

I do not have the stock injectors. Like a Dumb *** i tossed them thinking they would be useless. I did end up puchasing some four hole bosch injecters from Five o motorsports. I recieved them and installed them on saturday along with rerouting the plug wires folowing the TSB about missfires and plug wire routing. Truck finally runs great but now I have a new problem, OF COURSE I DO. I am getting some milkshake in my oil and I am wondering if anyone could tell me if there is a way to figure out if the coolant is coming from a head gasket or if it is coming from the intake. I will be putting my money on the intake since I just had it off to do the plenum repair.

 

That is probably a safe bet. If you are really determined.... you can pull all the spark plugs, put a pressure tester on the radiator, pump it up to 16 pounds, and then have a close listen to your engine. If you see coolant running out a spark plug hole, you got troubles, if you can hear it, but, can't see it...... chances are good it is indeed the intake.

I would bet the intake in any event. Did you use any kind of sealer on the gasket? was the manifold kinda eroded around the coolant passages?

 

Everything was clean, I did not use any gasket maker or rtv, just the gaskets in the gasket kit. Also wouldnt the exhaust be different it it was a head gasket, as far as the engine burning coolant. I will probably be tearing her down again. I bought the truck 6 months ago and have only put on about 2000 miles if the due to taking it apart and working out of town. If I tear it down again I feel I shound get the heads rebuit? ya/ na

 

How many miles on the truck? (I am at 166K, still original heads. they might need valve seals..... but, that's about it.)

If you were going to go to the trouble of yanking heads, I would just replace them with something better. For not much more money than having them gone thru, you can get new, fully assembled, thicker deck, (dodges weak point) heads, from places like clearwater cylinder head, in florida.

 

I've tested those Accel injectors and found those to be the greatest piles of s-h-it I've come across in a long time. I've seen some heinous injectors right out of the box but, I tested an entire set of those in a professional flow rate and metering system and, they are ALL over the map.

Now, I've not read this thread in it's entirety but, I did take note of the backfiring popping issue along with the term you used: "milkshake". That's an issue where, there's a coolant leak internal to the head area thus making it's way into the oil.

Here's what I do and, I've yet to have a leak or gasket failure on any intake install I've done.

I use Gasgacinch on both sides of the gaskets, on the head faces, on the front and rear seal areas and on the intake faces.

I also use black RTV Permatex BUT: SPARINGLY and, ONLY around the water ports. DO NOT USE AROUND the exhaust ports. There's a reason and, that is, it ends up degrading and creeping due to heat. It ends up a sticky gooey mess inside the combustion chambers. Just use it around the following:

-Water ports on both head face prior to gasket installation

-Water ports on intake gaskets POST installation

-Front and Rear seal area

-1/4 inch bead along lifter valley to front and rear seal intersection.

Heads and block exposed areas are to be covered with Gasgacinch.

Gaskets are to be dressed both sides with Gasgacinch and let dry

1/4 inch bead goes down in lifter valley to end seal area

Intake gaskets are to be installed and rolled out with a socket to seal Gasgacinch to head face and to prevent any movement during installation of intake manifold.

End seals drop in at this time. NOTE: If using end seals that are rubber like, DO NOT USE RTV underneath them as they will slide out as RTV is a lubricant for rubber and, it doesn't adhere to it either. If using NO END SEALS at all, USE RTV bead all the way across the block front and rear in continuous motion end to end of lifter valley- corner to corner. You've got only 10 minutes or so before it starts to skin over so, work quickly.

Once the gaskets are all in, you can drop the intake into place.

NOTE: using four cut off intake manifold bolts will aid to align the intake and help prevent it from moving around.

Install the TTY bolts and torque per OEM requirements or Haynes Spec. Warm engine up to full operating temperature and re-torque ONCE.

Set it and forget it. Let adhesive fully cure and you're done.

CM