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Brakes went out, ABS light on

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Old 11-28-2010 | 01:32 PM
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The brake line above the gas tank has blown out.
 
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Old 11-28-2010 | 01:33 PM
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Default Brakes went out, ABS light on

Can you guys give me some things I can check? One day my brakes went totally out and the ABS light came on. No visible leaks, the front brakes did have a slight wear sound to the prior to going out. I checked the brake fluid and it seemed at an appropriate level. I was hoping you guys can give me a couple of other things I can check.

Its 1998 Dodge Ram 1500, 2wd, 390 engine I believe. And it is a automatic (OD).

Many thanks in advance
 
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Old 11-28-2010 | 02:01 PM
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zman has it pegged. Even before you asked.
 
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Old 11-28-2010 | 02:05 PM
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How do I verify that and change it out? Does the tank have to come out? Will it be something obvious like the line is full out busted (bout to check this now)? I am checkin the pads and stuff now as well.

Thanks for the replies.
 
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Old 11-28-2010 | 02:08 PM
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Sit in the truck and pump the brakes for a bit. You should then see the signs of brake fluid running down the side of the tank.

You don't absolutely have to drop the tank..... you can feed the line over the top. I wouldn't even bother removing the remainder of the broken line.
 
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Old 11-28-2010 | 02:18 PM
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I will do that now. Also just to add I notice that the ebrake light is on now too. So ABS and the light that comes on when the ebrake is engaged. It just started doing that just now.
 
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Old 11-28-2010 | 02:38 PM
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Update.

I pumped the brakes as suggested and I found a leak from the rear passenger side drum. So I took off the wheel and popped the wheel. And the cylinder looking thing on the inside (not sure what it is called) is leaking. And the pads are worn all the way down.

My questions are what is that cylinder thing inside the drum called?

and

Can it be changed? Or is it something that has to be professionally changed?
 
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Old 11-28-2010 | 02:42 PM
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Slave cylinder. Or, wheel cylinder.

They are actually dirt cheap, easy to swap, and if you are doing one, you might just as well do the other side too. The bleeder on the other one will more than likely break off anyway..... (you can try and get it to break loose before you go to the parts store, if it snaps off, replace the thing. If it opens up nicely, and doesn't look in too bad of shape, leave it there)

Drown all line connections that you are going to have to remove with the penetrant of your choice. That will make them friendlier about coming off, without breaking other stuff.
 
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Old 11-28-2010 | 02:47 PM
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Most likely the brake line is going to break when you try to unscrew it from the back of the wheel cylinder. Start soaking it with some penetrating oil, may or may not help.

And btw, replace the line above the tank. Sure as shat it will blow after the WC is fixed.
 

Last edited by zman17; 11-28-2010 at 02:50 PM.
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Old 11-28-2010 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by zman17
Most likely the brake line is going to break when you try to unscrew it from the back of the wheel cylinder. Start soaking it with some penetrating oil, may or may not help.
Yep. Especially on these older trucks..... When I replaced a broken steel line to the rears on my van.... I ended up replacing ALL of the lines, PLUS the wheel cylinders....... Brakes feel real nice now though......
 


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