Brakes went out, ABS light on
#2
Brakes went out, ABS light on
Can you guys give me some things I can check? One day my brakes went totally out and the ABS light came on. No visible leaks, the front brakes did have a slight wear sound to the prior to going out. I checked the brake fluid and it seemed at an appropriate level. I was hoping you guys can give me a couple of other things I can check.
Its 1998 Dodge Ram 1500, 2wd, 390 engine I believe. And it is a automatic (OD).
Many thanks in advance
Its 1998 Dodge Ram 1500, 2wd, 390 engine I believe. And it is a automatic (OD).
Many thanks in advance
#4
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#7
Update.
I pumped the brakes as suggested and I found a leak from the rear passenger side drum. So I took off the wheel and popped the wheel. And the cylinder looking thing on the inside (not sure what it is called) is leaking. And the pads are worn all the way down.
My questions are what is that cylinder thing inside the drum called?
and
Can it be changed? Or is it something that has to be professionally changed?
I pumped the brakes as suggested and I found a leak from the rear passenger side drum. So I took off the wheel and popped the wheel. And the cylinder looking thing on the inside (not sure what it is called) is leaking. And the pads are worn all the way down.
My questions are what is that cylinder thing inside the drum called?
and
Can it be changed? Or is it something that has to be professionally changed?
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#8
Slave cylinder. Or, wheel cylinder.
They are actually dirt cheap, easy to swap, and if you are doing one, you might just as well do the other side too. The bleeder on the other one will more than likely break off anyway..... (you can try and get it to break loose before you go to the parts store, if it snaps off, replace the thing. If it opens up nicely, and doesn't look in too bad of shape, leave it there)
Drown all line connections that you are going to have to remove with the penetrant of your choice. That will make them friendlier about coming off, without breaking other stuff.
They are actually dirt cheap, easy to swap, and if you are doing one, you might just as well do the other side too. The bleeder on the other one will more than likely break off anyway..... (you can try and get it to break loose before you go to the parts store, if it snaps off, replace the thing. If it opens up nicely, and doesn't look in too bad of shape, leave it there)
Drown all line connections that you are going to have to remove with the penetrant of your choice. That will make them friendlier about coming off, without breaking other stuff.
#9
Most likely the brake line is going to break when you try to unscrew it from the back of the wheel cylinder. Start soaking it with some penetrating oil, may or may not help.
And btw, replace the line above the tank. Sure as shat it will blow after the WC is fixed.
And btw, replace the line above the tank. Sure as shat it will blow after the WC is fixed.
Last edited by zman17; 11-28-2010 at 02:50 PM.
#10
Yep. Especially on these older trucks..... When I replaced a broken steel line to the rears on my van.... I ended up replacing ALL of the lines, PLUS the wheel cylinders....... Brakes feel real nice now though......