I recently picked up a 1995 Dodge Ram 1500 for $2,000. The truck has 136,000 miles on it. I picked up the truck to tow my snowmobile trailer around, normally around 500-600 miles round trip, per trip. The truck runs and looks great. The only problem I noticed was between 60-70 miles an hour the truck will shake when I take my foot off the gas. I brought it into CarX who said I needed new u-joints, so those cost me $500. I also went for a tune up which was about another $500. I hit the interstate after getting this work done and ....its still doing it. The shaking almost seems to correlate with the sound coming from the exhaust, I really no nothing about trucks. The only thing this truck has coming from the back is a steel pipe that seems to run to the engine. Was thinking it was some sort of exhaust problem as the engine doesn't seem affected during the shakes. Seems like a decent running truck, but I mainly bought it for highway use and this is really irritating, I'm already $3,000 into it. My cup of tea is snowmobiles and like I said, I no nothing about trucks for the most part. I also noticed on the front tires that the tires could be worn just a bit more on the inside than the outside, but might be my imagination. Would getting the tires balanced help this out? Any inputs are greatly appreciated!
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Don't tow in overdrive. That will smoke your trans.
500 bucks for U-joints???? Which ones did they replace? For that kind of money, I would hope they did ALL of them. (and it is four wheel drive.....)
Where do you feel the vibration from? Thru the steering? Or, thru the seat? Try rotating your tires, and see if that changes anything.
500 bucks for U-joints???? Which ones did they replace? For that kind of money, I would hope they did ALL of them. (and it is four wheel drive.....)
Where do you feel the vibration from? Thru the steering? Or, thru the seat? Try rotating your tires, and see if that changes anything.
I appreciate the reply. It is 4WD, i believe they only did the front wheels, most of the cost was labor. 2 hours on one and 3 hours on the other. I was really hoping this would help the issue but it didnt. One more thing, there is a button on the dash that reads "Overdrive off", I've pressed that the shaking almost seems to get worse. It's really hard to describe what it does. Basically when I am accelerating up to 65-70 and then let off the gas pedal I feel the shaking, it doesnt feel like a tire shake though, but I'm not really sure either. Feels like something in the front end that shakes and its normally only up past 65 and seems worse and occurs also at lower speeds when overdrive is off. I'll try the tire rotation and pray that's what is wrong. My uncle is a mechanic who will look at it and fix it for free but he lives about 2 hours from here and I do not want to drive it that far if its unsafe. Another thing to note, the shake only happens for a moment and almost feels like the front end is rattling, if I hit the gas or continue to decelerate it won't do it again until those speeds. I also noticed that my oil light would flicker today when I put it into and out of 4wd, not sure if that means anything. Seems like I bought a decent looking POS.
Maybe its better described as "jerking" when decelerating
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HHhhhmmm. Ok, couple things you can check.
I would start with looking at the rear universal joints. Set the parking brake, or block the tires.... stick it in neutral, and give the rear driveshaft a shake. Any movement in the u-joints themselves is a bad thing. Replace 'em.
If you are feeling really ambitious, drop the rear shaft (it's only four bolts.) and pull it out. Inspect u-joints where they are easy to get at, and you can also check and see if they are binding... (which is just as bad as sloppy.)
While the shaft is out, check the output shaft on the transfer case, ANY movement is bad, and needs to be addressed immediately. The 231's are notorious for losing the snap ring that holds the shaft in place, and parts tend to walk around inside the case, and eat themselves up. (or, blow the t-case into several pieces.... no fun.)
Also check ALL of the front suspension parts. Don't trust the guys at the shop, do it yourself. Grab a friend, and park 'em in the drivers seat. Turn the key enough to unlock the steering. Have your friend GENTLY rock the steering wheel back and forth, just to the point of feeling some resistance. In the mean time, you are checking out the steering gear for any parts that move, that shouldn't be, and also, parts that should be moving, but aren't....... (steering box on these trucks are famous for slop.) Once you are satisfied there, have your friend REEF on the steering wheel, back and forth, while you look at the track bar. There should not be ANY movement at all at either end.
Peek under the hood, see where the steering shaft has a joint right up by where the column comes thru the firewall? Grab it, and give it a shake. (another spot that is pretty common for slop, and will make some 'clunking' noises while turning....)
I would also have a look at the rear leaf spring bushings......
I would start with looking at the rear universal joints. Set the parking brake, or block the tires.... stick it in neutral, and give the rear driveshaft a shake. Any movement in the u-joints themselves is a bad thing. Replace 'em.
If you are feeling really ambitious, drop the rear shaft (it's only four bolts.) and pull it out. Inspect u-joints where they are easy to get at, and you can also check and see if they are binding... (which is just as bad as sloppy.)
While the shaft is out, check the output shaft on the transfer case, ANY movement is bad, and needs to be addressed immediately. The 231's are notorious for losing the snap ring that holds the shaft in place, and parts tend to walk around inside the case, and eat themselves up. (or, blow the t-case into several pieces.... no fun.)
Also check ALL of the front suspension parts. Don't trust the guys at the shop, do it yourself. Grab a friend, and park 'em in the drivers seat. Turn the key enough to unlock the steering. Have your friend GENTLY rock the steering wheel back and forth, just to the point of feeling some resistance. In the mean time, you are checking out the steering gear for any parts that move, that shouldn't be, and also, parts that should be moving, but aren't....... (steering box on these trucks are famous for slop.) Once you are satisfied there, have your friend REEF on the steering wheel, back and forth, while you look at the track bar. There should not be ANY movement at all at either end.
Peek under the hood, see where the steering shaft has a joint right up by where the column comes thru the firewall? Grab it, and give it a shake. (another spot that is pretty common for slop, and will make some 'clunking' noises while turning....)
I would also have a look at the rear leaf spring bushings......
Really appreciate all the information, I will relay this to my cousin and uncle when they are able to take a look at it. I just looked at my invoice for the repairs and the ujoints were $33 each...that's ridiculous...and Im still having the same problem. Would it be worth my while to bring the vehicle into carx and tell them I paid $1,000 for repairs and the vehicle is still doing the same thing?
Well, found out what it was...the glass pack exhaust was separating from the pipe coming from the engine...finally gave out on a trip yesterday, suddenly got really, really loud. Stopped at a muffler shop and they welded a new muffler on, so if anyone is having this issue, check out the muffler!




