2001 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.2l, 4x4 128,000 miles.

I am at my wits end. On October 8th of this year, I had my battery replaced because I noticed that it was turning over slower. Had it tested at Advance Auto. The test said it had about half the CCA that it should. Fair enough, the original battery was pretty old. Replaced the battery.

Fast forward 4 weeks. I notice it's starting to crank slower again. The next day, boom. Battery is dead. Advance Auto actually comes to my place to jump it. It's so dead, it won't jump with their jump box. They pull the battery, bring it back to their store and charge it. Put it back in the truck, and it starts. I follow them back to the store where they run the battery test again. Dead. They replace the battery yet again.

On November 23rd, I had issues with it stalling while I was driving. It would not stay running unlessgave it gas. I had to keep on the gas, or it would stall. Brought it to my mechanic. After going over the vehicle, they replaced the IAC, and the battery was dead yet again. Tey said it was a cheap battery ($95?) and that I should put an Interstate in there. So I did. Unbelievably, I did get my money back from Advance.

So here we are today. I noticed yesterday it started cranking slower. Tehn, I barely got it started this morning. Once I get it started, it's fine. Started it at lunch, just to make sure it would start after work. After work, it barely starts. Bring it to Advance, and sure enough. 335/700 CCA. The battery is dead yet again.

The last time I had it in to the mechanic, they said they tested for shorts. Nothing was found. They tested the alternator. It's fine. Here are my questions:

1. What in the world could be draining it that it takes a month to drain it?

2. I am dropping it back off tomorrow morning. Give me something, anything I can tell him to look for. I mentioned doing a draw test, and he said that is the first thing they will do.

And stupid question. About a month before all of this started, I had the condenser and compressor on my A/C replaced. Is there something they could have hooked up incorrectly that may be causing such a slow drain?

Thanks in advance.

 

I would start looking for bad grounds. I would also take a long hard look at just what your alternator is putting out. I would assume they did a load test on the alternator?? What were the results of that?

Killing batterys in such a short time is indeed unusual. Of course, the battery showing low numbers for CCA when it is somewhat discharged.... is normal.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by a load test. The test they did on it, both at Advance Auto and by the mechainic, showed the alternator was putting out 13.9 volts. Does this make sense?

Once I have the vehicle running, the gauge in the truck reads over 14 volts.

One last thing. When I had the A/C work done, I also replaced the serpentine belt. (Was moving from Florida to Ohio and didn't want to take any chances.)

 

Volts is only part of the story. AMP output is equally as important. If the vehicle electrical system draws more amps than the alt is putting out.... the battery goes down. (exactly what you are seeing.....) They should test the alt with the vehicle running, and hit the Load switch on their tester. (same way they test batterys on a NON-running engine.) That will tell you if your alt is really doing its job.

 

Thanks HeyYou. I appreciate the feedback. Just getting expensive to have them keep guessing, lol. One last question.

The last time the mechanic replaced the battery with his battery (the Interstate) he said he found no shorts in the system, and that the alternator was fine. Now that the battery he put in is toast, do I have a leg to stand on as far as them replacing the battery at no cost?

 

Is there an excessive draw on the battery when the car is off? this would cause it to be drained significantly when not running. If the battery is continuously depleted and recharged over and over, it will kill the battery. Advance can test this.

When they tested your truck's charging system with the alternator on, did they do the whole test? If they did, they would have done the following:

zero amp-clamp, battery test, start the car, hold rpms at 2500, turn high beams and heater on, hold rpms at 2500, turn off car and loads, zero amp-clamp, drain test.

Or did they just get lazy and attach the tester to the battery with truck started and say it's putting out 13.xx volts?

I work at Advance, and they should have done the 1st one unless the truck wouldn't start. If they didn't, go back in and ask them to test the draw on the system.

From what I understand, the voltage regulator on these trucks is part of the computer. Could this be the problem?

Any aftermarket sound systems or anything like that?

Defiantly check ground wires on the alternator.

As far as getting the shop to replace the battery:
They might, couldn't hurt to ask. But they will probably tell you something like they can't because their warranty only covers defects in the battery itself.

 

If it has been only a month or so, they should give you a brand spanking new battery.

Better would be if they could find the REAL problem, and FIX it. (which I am sure you are hoping for. )

 

RC-
Yes, that sounds like the test Advanced Auto did. I definitely remember revving the engine. As for the battery, here is why I ask. They told me I had a defective battery from Advanced Auto, even knowing that I was on my second battery from them. It was the mechanic who told me to bring the battery back for a refund. Here is what the slip said as to services performed by my mechainic:

"Checked charging system, along with performing battery test. Battery Failed. Replaced battery and verified the repair."

That last part is what has me even asking. But I do not want to screw anyone if it's unforseeable.

No aftermarket anything. It's the same as the day I drove it off the showroom floor. Not sure about the voltage regulator. I really know nothing about vehicles. I literally have not had one problem with this truck in nearly 10 years. Also, I was mistaken before. They A/C repair was the evaporator core and the compressor.Not sure if that matters.

 

Amen to that lol.

 

Evaporator is in the heater box, cleverly concealed by the dash. Dash needs to come out for that repair. How long after that repair did this problem present itself?

If you have a VOM (volt, ohm meter). Disconnect the battery negative cable, put the red lead on that, the black lead on the battery terminal, and set the range to 10 AMPS. See what the meter says. With the truck, and everything else... off, it should be less than 2 amps. (there are ALWAYS some draws on the system, radio clock being one of them. PCM has a light draw as well.)