Service Dept Pricing
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Service Dept Pricing
Hi all new guy here.I have a 98 dodge ram sport 1500 4wd.It has 84,000 original miles on it,i have had it for 10 years and am the second owner.It's been a great truck with no problems except for a water pump replacement.
Until now...and here i am trying to see if anyone else has had same work done and what one would think is reasonable rates.
Last year it started.I would move it to 4wd hi and it would stay in 2wd,sometimes.Then when it would go into 4wd,it wouldn't go back to 2wd.I took it to a 4x4 shop and they said the vacuum lines had rust and condensation.They replace a couple bad sections and blew out the lines.Cost $75 and it made it through winter.
This year same thing,so i took it to a local auto shop,the other guy was booked up.
So now the fun begins.I figure to just have them replace all the lines,maybe 100-150 bucks.1st thing they find were bad U Joints,they brought me into the shop and showed me and wow,those things were completely shot,surprised the hadn't popped out and destroyed the yoke.They charged me $600 dollars to replace both,then called and said front pads and rotors were steel to steel,another $250 for 1 caliper,2 rotors and pads.( I've done quite a few brakes and wasn't happy with that price at all)
Now when they changed u joints,they didn't replace seals,i guess they didn't pull the axles,Is that possible?They were already closed when i had read the bill.I wish they would of called,having it all tore down,seems like it would of been nothing to pop in some new seals.
Also in the end,they charged me $100 for inspection of vacuum system for initial problems which brings me to my main question..
They said the lines appeared in good shape but that my vacuum actuator was in really bad shape and rusted up.Now i've seen these online ro 60-80 dollars.They want to charge me $600 dollars to replace that and install a new solenoid.That seems way out of line.Yes/
Also they showed me tranny fluid and it looked really bad,brownish and i know it has never been changed.They want to do something they called a power flush and they want another $200 for that which also seems like an awful lot.
I wish i was as young as i used to be with all that patience but it is what it is and i can't do work like this anymore.So i come here seeking advice.
Thanks!
Until now...and here i am trying to see if anyone else has had same work done and what one would think is reasonable rates.
Last year it started.I would move it to 4wd hi and it would stay in 2wd,sometimes.Then when it would go into 4wd,it wouldn't go back to 2wd.I took it to a 4x4 shop and they said the vacuum lines had rust and condensation.They replace a couple bad sections and blew out the lines.Cost $75 and it made it through winter.
This year same thing,so i took it to a local auto shop,the other guy was booked up.
So now the fun begins.I figure to just have them replace all the lines,maybe 100-150 bucks.1st thing they find were bad U Joints,they brought me into the shop and showed me and wow,those things were completely shot,surprised the hadn't popped out and destroyed the yoke.They charged me $600 dollars to replace both,then called and said front pads and rotors were steel to steel,another $250 for 1 caliper,2 rotors and pads.( I've done quite a few brakes and wasn't happy with that price at all)
Now when they changed u joints,they didn't replace seals,i guess they didn't pull the axles,Is that possible?They were already closed when i had read the bill.I wish they would of called,having it all tore down,seems like it would of been nothing to pop in some new seals.
Also in the end,they charged me $100 for inspection of vacuum system for initial problems which brings me to my main question..
They said the lines appeared in good shape but that my vacuum actuator was in really bad shape and rusted up.Now i've seen these online ro 60-80 dollars.They want to charge me $600 dollars to replace that and install a new solenoid.That seems way out of line.Yes/
Also they showed me tranny fluid and it looked really bad,brownish and i know it has never been changed.They want to do something they called a power flush and they want another $200 for that which also seems like an awful lot.
I wish i was as young as i used to be with all that patience but it is what it is and i can't do work like this anymore.So i come here seeking advice.
Thanks!
Record Breaker
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,169
Likes: 0
From: Texas
i say find another shop, but be prepared to pay for what you dont know!
with that being said you should have just purchased a posi-lock kit about $200. it replaces and eliminates all the 4wd vacuum lines. the only problem would be paying some one to install it (assuming you dont have the tools to do it your self.)
brake should have been something like $200 to replace all the pads, rotors, drums, calipers and the other misc things that go along with that, but again thats only parts.
luckily i havent had to replace the u-joints and axle seals yet so i dont know the price of those parts, but from what i have heard they are both usually replaced at the same time.
and there is a third u-joint in the front axle, i think when you replace that one you have to replace the seals
hopefully other user will stop and by and fill in the rest of you questions
with that being said you should have just purchased a posi-lock kit about $200. it replaces and eliminates all the 4wd vacuum lines. the only problem would be paying some one to install it (assuming you dont have the tools to do it your self.)
brake should have been something like $200 to replace all the pads, rotors, drums, calipers and the other misc things that go along with that, but again thats only parts.
luckily i havent had to replace the u-joints and axle seals yet so i dont know the price of those parts, but from what i have heard they are both usually replaced at the same time.
and there is a third u-joint in the front axle, i think when you replace that one you have to replace the seals
hopefully other user will stop and by and fill in the rest of you questions
Last edited by 99dodge318; Dec 19, 2010 at 12:21 AM.
Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 267
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Cant help you much about the pricing... but,
Do NOT have them do any kind of "flush" on your transmission. These transmissions are already prone to failures enough as it is. A flush will probably only make things worse. But having bad fluid is also not healthy for these transmissions.
What I would do, is call around and find a shop that will drop the transmission fluid pan, drain the oil, change the transmission filter, reinstall the pan with a new gasket, and refill the transmission with ATF +4 fluid only. This won't get all the fluid out, but it is much less destructive on the transmission that doing any sort of "power flush". So, you'll want to have this done again in the future, maybe another year or so. Shouldn't be too expensive; several quarts of ATF +4, a trans filter, a new pan gasket, and the labor.
Just don't let them talk you into a "flush"...
Hope this helped and welcome to DF! Good luck!
-JT
Do NOT have them do any kind of "flush" on your transmission. These transmissions are already prone to failures enough as it is. A flush will probably only make things worse. But having bad fluid is also not healthy for these transmissions.
What I would do, is call around and find a shop that will drop the transmission fluid pan, drain the oil, change the transmission filter, reinstall the pan with a new gasket, and refill the transmission with ATF +4 fluid only. This won't get all the fluid out, but it is much less destructive on the transmission that doing any sort of "power flush". So, you'll want to have this done again in the future, maybe another year or so. Shouldn't be too expensive; several quarts of ATF +4, a trans filter, a new pan gasket, and the labor.
Just don't let them talk you into a "flush"...
Hope this helped and welcome to DF! Good luck!
-JT
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,419
Likes: 4,214
From: Clayton MI
Welcome to DF. 
The shop is gouging you. Plain and simple.
They do indeed have to pull the axles to do the joints in them, however, Dana got stupid when the designed these guys, and replacing axle seals basically requires COMPLETE disassembly of the axle. Passenger side seal isn't too bad, but, to do the drivers side, the carrier needs to come out. Would like to shoot the engineer that thought that was a good idea......
These guys are charging you twice for the same labor as well. They had to take the front brakes all apart to get the axles out, and now, they are charging you to do it again, for the brake job. That exercise, had it been an honest shop, should have been parts only, and maybe another half hour labor.
Find another shop to have the work done. In the end, going to the dealership probably would have been cheaper.
The shop is gouging you. Plain and simple.
They do indeed have to pull the axles to do the joints in them, however, Dana got stupid when the designed these guys, and replacing axle seals basically requires COMPLETE disassembly of the axle. Passenger side seal isn't too bad, but, to do the drivers side, the carrier needs to come out. Would like to shoot the engineer that thought that was a good idea......
These guys are charging you twice for the same labor as well. They had to take the front brakes all apart to get the axles out, and now, they are charging you to do it again, for the brake job. That exercise, had it been an honest shop, should have been parts only, and maybe another half hour labor.
Find another shop to have the work done. In the end, going to the dealership probably would have been cheaper.
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 12,204
Likes: 10
From: Gainesville, Ga.
wecome to df. you should have come on here about 2 years ago and you could have saved yourself a small fortune.
you need to find a new shop now. don't go back and don't pay them another dime. like Hey said, they're charging you multiple times for the same labor, and now they're just ringing you up at $600 for the cad.
to your question - the cad is a troublesome device that tends to rust up, encounter vac leaks, and just generally need frequent service. it can often be repaired by cleaning and removing any rust on the shaft. you can buy these new from online sites like Rockauto or Ebay for a reasonable price. (don't buy a used one unless you take it apart and inspect it) they are not hard to replace, but especially this time of year, you need a decent place to work and some basic tools. Go back to your first shop and consider buying the part online and having them install it.
i'd recommend a posilok cable, as it replaces the whole vacuum operated mess. its around $200 for the part, and can be installed by an average owner, or installed by a shop in a couple of hours.
DO service your transmission, but DON'T have one of those power flushes done. just drain/refill with atf+4 ONLY and change the filter. if you haven't done regular service on this trans, then go back in about 2-3-4 weeks and have it done again. if you can do it yourself, then install a universal drain plug and it makes it very easy. atf+4 is expensive at $5/qt x about 6-7 quarts, so a service is $60+ in parts including filter and gasket. if you find an original rubber mopar gasket they are often reuseable and better than a crappy cork gasket.
you need to find a new shop now. don't go back and don't pay them another dime. like Hey said, they're charging you multiple times for the same labor, and now they're just ringing you up at $600 for the cad.
to your question - the cad is a troublesome device that tends to rust up, encounter vac leaks, and just generally need frequent service. it can often be repaired by cleaning and removing any rust on the shaft. you can buy these new from online sites like Rockauto or Ebay for a reasonable price. (don't buy a used one unless you take it apart and inspect it) they are not hard to replace, but especially this time of year, you need a decent place to work and some basic tools. Go back to your first shop and consider buying the part online and having them install it.
i'd recommend a posilok cable, as it replaces the whole vacuum operated mess. its around $200 for the part, and can be installed by an average owner, or installed by a shop in a couple of hours.
DO service your transmission, but DON'T have one of those power flushes done. just drain/refill with atf+4 ONLY and change the filter. if you haven't done regular service on this trans, then go back in about 2-3-4 weeks and have it done again. if you can do it yourself, then install a universal drain plug and it makes it very easy. atf+4 is expensive at $5/qt x about 6-7 quarts, so a service is $60+ in parts including filter and gasket. if you find an original rubber mopar gasket they are often reuseable and better than a crappy cork gasket.
Last edited by dhvaughan; Dec 19, 2010 at 11:47 AM.
Record Breaker
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 1
From: Wisconsin
i say find another shop, but be prepared to pay for what you dont know!
with that being said you should have just purchased a posi-lock kit about $200. it replaces and eliminates all the 4wd vacuum lines. the only problem would be paying some one to install it (assuming you dont have the tools to do it your self.)
brake should have been something like $200 to replace all the pads, rotors, drums, calipers and the other misc things that go along with that, but again thats only parts.
luckily i havent had to replace the u-joints and axle seals yet so i dont know the price of those parts, but from what i have heard they are both usually replaced at the same time.
and there is a third u-joint in the front axle, i think when you replace that one you have to replace the seals
hopefully other user will stop and by and fill in the rest of you questions
with that being said you should have just purchased a posi-lock kit about $200. it replaces and eliminates all the 4wd vacuum lines. the only problem would be paying some one to install it (assuming you dont have the tools to do it your self.)
brake should have been something like $200 to replace all the pads, rotors, drums, calipers and the other misc things that go along with that, but again thats only parts.
luckily i havent had to replace the u-joints and axle seals yet so i dont know the price of those parts, but from what i have heard they are both usually replaced at the same time.
and there is a third u-joint in the front axle, i think when you replace that one you have to replace the seals
hopefully other user will stop and by and fill in the rest of you questions
Thread Starter
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Registered User
Joined: Dec 2010
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Just a quick thanks to all the helpful replies.I am going to cancel the flush and get it done the right way.
Also going back to the first shop tomorrow and see what they have to say about installing the posi lok cable.I've been reading up on that and it sounds so much better.
Also going back to the first shop tomorrow and see what they have to say about installing the posi lok cable.I've been reading up on that and it sounds so much better.
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Captain
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 521
Likes: 1
From: Ohio
When I was busy this summer and working 65-70 hours a week I didn't have time to replace my u joints. Took it to a local shop. They replaced both u joints, one wheel bearing, pads, and rotors for $365. That included all parts, labor, and tax. I was going to do the brakes myself, but when they called they said they wouldn't charge labor since they had to take it all apart I let them do it. They also gave got the rotors and pads for $15 cheaper than autozone because they get a discount.
It should only cost $200-250 for a shop to do the u joints. Sorry that you got riped off. If I were you i would not go back to that shop again. Is it a dealership?
It should only cost $200-250 for a shop to do the u joints. Sorry that you got riped off. If I were you i would not go back to that shop again. Is it a dealership?
Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 7,055
Likes: 7
From: Lee County, North Carolina
Good call on canceling the flush. If your fluid is as bad as you think then you would probably have big problems if you got it flushed. I say do the fluid and filter change and get a gasket from the dealership. The Mopar gaskets cost $20, they are plastic with rubber on each side and you can re-use them 4 or 5 times before they need to be replaced. You install the Mopar gasket dry and don't have any silicone or cork scraping to do when you drop the pan. After putting a few thousand miles on the truck then it would be a good idea to change the fluid and filter again, that will get most of the old fluid out. I'll second the ATF4 only too, don't let them talk you into adding any additives or let them use Dexron III with an additive that makes it "the same as ATF4".
I couldn't see the u-joints taking more than 1 hour per side. The first time I changed mine I think I had the axle out about 15-20 minutes after taking the tire off.
Sorry you got ripped off, big time. Why would you go back to that same shop to get them to install a posi lock since you know now that they really stuck it to ya a couple times?
I couldn't see the u-joints taking more than 1 hour per side. The first time I changed mine I think I had the axle out about 15-20 minutes after taking the tire off.
Sorry you got ripped off, big time. Why would you go back to that same shop to get them to install a posi lock since you know now that they really stuck it to ya a couple times?