i don't see your location? if you're in a cold climate you'll need to keep it full of expensive 50/50 mix. if you're in a warm climate you can just fill it with free water until you get it sorted out.

another tip to reduce your leak is to unscrew the radiator cap to the half **** position. this prevents pressure build up which will reduce the leak. just keep an eye on the temp gauge to make sure it stays ok.

 

I couldn't fit the 'mulit-tool' flavor in mine. You need the one that is specifically for the 3/8ths fitting. (doesn't matter if it is a cheap plastic feller. I am a tool ***** though, so I bought the nice aluminum one....... 14.95, or something stupid like that.)

 

Merry Christmas! Nothing like getting up first thing on Xmas morning to continue learning how to fix my roommate's damn dodge.

dh, thanks for helping me understand the manual's directions. I thought the coolant reservoir may be attached, but I did not see that the windshield washer was also connected. I also see the 2nd tranny line coming into radiator area, but cannot visualize where it ends. I imagine once I start pulling stuff off, I will be able to see where the 2nd line ends.

I'm in Park City, Utah, where we are having an extreme winter so far. You probably didn't read my first post, where I say roommate came home the other night worried because his truck running hot, he was smelling coolant in cab and was having to regulary top off reservoir... then he tells me he has 100% antifreeze (no water blended) in it. When I go outside to assess the situation, his radiator smells like burnt coolant, his hoses are literally "cooked" to his block, and his coolant looked liked dark rusty green sludge. For a Xmas present, I offered to clean out his system, replace t-stat and cap, and refill with proper 50/50 blend. That's when all hell broke loose.

Thanks for the other tip re: cap. I wondered if the new cap was creating full pressure in the system and aggravating the leak. Was debating on digging old cap out of trash to put back on. When the sun rises, I'll go out to see the state of his radiator leak (still praying the stop leak helps), top off with coolant again, and try the half turn with new cap instead.

Hey you, glad to see you still following thread. Your posts are much appreciated! If it was a tool for my burb, I would probably spring for better quality. But for this, I'll get the cheapy tool since I hope and pray that once radiator is replaced (and MAYBE just MAYBE, his heater core too) I will never have to work on the damn dodge again... although he is in desperate need of help with his front suspension too.

 

Update: I’m a dork!!!! I think I get it now. I went back outside this morning to check on the damn dodge. Same 1/3 gallon loss again, with evidence of spray from front driver side seam. Double checked old vs new cap. Both 16 psi. Did a more careful look down passenger side radiator. This is what I think I understand now. Sheesh, I think I should dye my hair blonde after all??

Cap on top. Hose connected right under cap goes to reservoir. The metal fuel line looking connector hose just under that is a tranny line. At the bottom, there is the bottom radiator hose and just above that is another metal connector hose, which would be the other tranny line.

So… to disconnect tranny lines, I need to push line towards radiator, then push the disconnect tool into the line trying to line up on tabs, then pull line? How much tranny fluid will be lost (I am assuming I need to add tranny fluid to my shopping list)? Afterwards, I assume I need to get truck running at normal temperature in neutral with parking break on to test tranny level?

 

no need to push the line towards the radiator. the 3/8" fuel line tool will be two hinged pieces, sort of like a pair of scissors. just squirt a little wd40 into the bell shaped portion. open the tool, wrap it around the line, close it up, and then gently push the tool up into the bell shape. you'll feel a little resistance as it spreads the spring clips. then very gently, sort of twist the trans hose back and forth and pull away from the radiator. the hose should just pop right off.

have a drain pan under the lower auto trans hose. about 1/2 quart or less will drain from the lower port of the radiator. when done, refill with atf+4 only, or if its really a slight amount, you might not need to add any. check trans level with truck running and in neutral, not park. pump does not run in park, so you get a false level.

no need to address this now, but notice on the other end of the trans hose, a screwed in fitting about an inch long. that's the check valve. someday when it warms up, and you've got time and energy for cutting and replumbing, you can remove that check valve (or drill out the core). its known for getting stopped up with clutch debris sludge and killing the trans by overheating.

 

disconnect tool -
the longer, more expensive scissor pair is at the top of this page.
the smaller, cheaper - single size little thimbles are at the bottom.
either is fine.

http://www.shopwiki.com/_OTC+Tools+%...8147093&s=3885

 

Thanks for the link, DH! It reallys helps to be able to see the tool I will be using. Will be sure to buy the right tranny fluid.

Maybe I should go ahead and drill the hole in the valve when replacing radiator since it will be drained and partially disassembled anyway? How big of a problem is this? He has approx. 130,000 miles.

 

depends on your time and energy level and whether you have a good place to work or not. if you decide to do it, remove the check valve, place it in a vise and drill the center core completely out. blow it out with an air hose or similar and reinstall.

i try to only tear up one thing at a time.

 

DH, excellent point. Roommate already struggling to not blame me for the radiator... don't need to have another "oops" moment with the check valve too.

Another random question, if you don't mind. He currently has fresh 50/50 blend in his truck with the bottle of stop leak pellets additive. Since he still has the bad heater core, I was thinking to re-use the coolant, but not sure if this would be bad for the new radiator?

 

Stop leak isn't exactly good for radiators. Tends to clog the tubes..... Of course, you can get a fair bit of it out with a good flush, but, then the heater core will start leaking again. Six of one, half dozen of the other. Up to you really. You could always filter the fluid thru a piece of cloth, or some such, and re-use it.