I was looking at getting some new front rotors, the place I was looking at asks you to select a 2500 4wd with 3500 lb front axle, or a 4wd with 4500 lb front axle. How do you know what you have?

 

Look at the sticker on the back of the door frame on the drivers side. It will gave weight ratings there.

In the early years, there were two versions of the 2500, LD, and HD. Given that you have the v-10, I am going to guess you have the HD version. But, look at the sticker to be sure.

 

since it is 4wd, you better look at getting a good sledge hammer and probably new bearings also.

 

Thanks for the info guys,

So they are tough to get off huh? The previous owner said he replaced the wheel bearings already because they were shot when he got the truck (he only had the truck 6 months or so), so maybe the rotors aren't on there to bad yet since he would have had to take off the rotors to do that right? The truck just shakes a lot when I'm braking from higher speed, like coming off the highway, figured the rotors were warped or something.

 

Does your e-brake work? Might wanna do a test.... find a nice safe spot to play, and use JUST the e-brake to slow the truck. See if it isn't the rears that are giving you the problem.

The front rotors are staked onto the hubs via the lug bolts. To change the rotors, you have to remove the hub/bearing assembly, and knock the lug bolts out..... Not exactly what I consider 'intelligent design'.....

When I got mine, it did all sorts of rude things when I stepped on the brakes.... When I pulled it all apart to find out why, turned out the rear shoes were down to the rivets, and the rivets were digging into the drums.... made for some exciting stops.... Replaced the rear shoes, turned the drums, (they weren't that bad...) put it all back together, and MUCH better.

 

Hmm I see, didn't know that, I've only ever changed the rotors where you just remove the tire, remove the caliper assembly and then the rotor just slides off the hub.

Well the e-brake at least works to keep the truck parked, because I forgot to disengage it once. I will try it somewhere safe to slow the truck down and see if it shakes just using the rear brakes.

 

shaking is usually a sign of a warped rotor....it may look good but the heat might have warped it..on my ram i replaced pads and still had a shake, and my rotors looked mint...well come to find out one was warped. replaced that and good as new...just my .02 cents

 

Your options are find a shop that does 'on the car resurfacing' or replace the rotors. If the front bearings were replaced recently then it shouldn't be a big deal getting the hubs off. The problems arise from being rusted on.

 

Why is everyone in such a hurry to replace rotors? If you take them off, it is simple matter to get them resurfaced. Any shop that does it will make sure they are within spec when done. If they are thin, then yeah, get new ones.

On a side note..... I ALWAYS scraped a thousandth or two off of NEW rotors, because invariably, if I did not, the car would be back with a pedal pulsation, or shimmy, and I would get to do the work again. On these trucks, with rotors that are a REAL pain to remove/replace..... NOT doing it, even on NEW rotors, is simply asking for trouble.

 

On these trucks I would would replace them rather than resurface them. The reason being is the hassle involved just to get them off and ther relatively low cost of the rotors themselves. I think they were $35 from advance and I had a 20% off coupon. It was about the same as what it would have cost to have them turned if they could. Rotors that are resurfaced are more likely to warp again as more material is cut away.