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Still no heat...

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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 01:20 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Flush the heater core itself. Disconnect the hoses, (plug the ends you arent using, so you don't lose as much) run water both directions thru the core, until if flows good, and is clean. Go both directions a couple times, ending with backwards. Try and prevent fluid loss as you put the lines back on, they will siphon water right out of the heater core, and you will end up with the big air bubble in there anyway.... Then burp the entire system again. It should work.
lol been there done that twice..Stopped the gurgling with that but didnt help at all
 
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 01:22 AM
  #12  
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That seems really odd. It has worked very well for me. Twice...... How old IS your water pump?

Something else you could try, but, not without its hazards.... Disconnect the return line going to the water pump, plug the steel line, start the engine, and see if you get flow........
 
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 01:27 AM
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Ok what about a plugged line like the steel one that goes into the water pump, remove it and have a look down the hole. I know it's way out there but.....
 
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 01:36 AM
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water pump is original.. (96 with 132k miles ish) Might try to plug the line and see. Right now im getting amazing heat! ..Only because i am eating spicy doritos haha...
 
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 09:15 AM
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I had a similar problem and nothing was working. I ended up changing the water pump and all was good. If you are as frusturated as you seem, I woul change it out, it is the original pump so even if it isn't the problem now, it will be in the near future.
Good Luck
 
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 09:37 AM
  #16  
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I have a 99 with over 370,000 miles on the same engine and trans, i have done just about EVERYTHING to this in its life,
1. remove the blend door actuator on the bottom of the heater core on the passenger side it will come off with a flexible extension tool with a phillips bit, or a 90 degree screwdriver, but it will take longer, you have to pull the carpet back away from the firewall, and remove a little of the rubber padding, but it is pretty easy, the screw towards the firewall is B--- H,remove the electrical connector, make sure the truck is turned off ,after it is off of there ,you can manually move the blend door rod , rotate it and you will feel it go all the way one way then rotate it the other way, you will feel and hear a thump when the door closes all the way, start the truck warm it up and rotate it back and forth to feel the cold and then the heat, if it works correctly with GREAT heat , the actuator or control is bad, I can tell you later how to diagnose that, but try this first , if you are real inventive till it gets fixed you can roll tape on the actuator rod and tape it in the direction you want the heat, the rod only sticks out about 3/4 to 1 inch, so there is not much to grab, very common for the actuator to go out and not let the door go all the way closed or open, give it a try
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Last edited by BULLRAM; Jan 5, 2011 at 09:43 AM.
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 01:54 PM
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One extra thing can i use CLR to flush my system? Since i popped a hose last night and lost all my coolant i decided imma flush it again, and thinking i wanna flush the entire system with CLR, is this ok?
 
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 02:24 PM
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I have used clr on older stuff with no problem but not on the dodge. I have used muratic acid with very good results on marine closed cooling systems, but this is one product that you must be very carefull useing!!!! gloves safety Glasses, mask the hole nine yards.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 02:25 PM
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Think I will skip on using CLR says not to use with aluminum or copper... So idk if mine has it or not... Rather not chance it!!
 
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 03:25 PM
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Go to your local parts store and just buy some rad flush, there are all kinds on the market, just follow the distuctions.
 
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