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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 01:58 PM
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Hey guys, just a quick one. I was wondering if anyone knew of a cam that works well with the Harland Sharp 1.7 roller rockers. I've got a '97 360, mods are in the sig. Really just looking for any additional performance I can squeak out of the beast. If anyone knows a part number off hand, can furnish links, or has other advice, it would be much appreciated!!!
 
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ib768
Hey guys, just a quick one. I was wondering if anyone knew of a cam that works well with the Harland Sharp 1.7 roller rockers. I've got a '97 360, mods are in the sig. Really just looking for any additional performance I can squeak out of the beast. If anyone knows a part number off hand, can furnish links, or has other advice, it would be much appreciated!!!

The famous "Sausage Cam...Famous on the R/T forums anyway.

.508/510 206° 210° @ .050 112º LSA. Ithink that's on 1.7s...I'm looking for more info on it. I ran one for awhile with stock heads.

EDIT...That's with 1.6 rockers. You could get a grind to work with your 1.7s. I did.

Has a little bit of lope to it, streetable, smog friendly...But you're going to need better valve springs & custom push rods, any cam is going to need better springs than stock, especially with miles on 'em.

Hear it here http://www.streetfire.net/video/sausage-cam_144815.htm Not my truck.

Richard at Hypo Tek (sp) can get a custom grind prettty cheap if you have a core, and help you pick one out too. I just sold a R/T cam for 70 shipped, used cams are out there for cheap.
 

Last edited by Adobedude; Jan 8, 2011 at 01:31 PM.
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 01:27 PM
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Adobe, this isn't exactly a thread jack, because it does pertain:

What method would you recommend to swap springs whilst the heads remain ON the block? Is the 'rope in cylinder' reasonable? I think I would trust that more than air, but I've some precaution about either.. Do you have any suggestions short of special tools?

And ib768: I've wondered this too.. I even wrote and called Comp Cams about it, but never received a response. Thanks for posting it here.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by drewactual
Adobe, this isn't exactly a thread jack, because it does pertain:

What method would you recommend to swap springs whilst the heads remain ON the block? Is the 'rope in cylinder' reasonable? I think I would trust that more than air, but I've some precaution about either.. Do you have any suggestions short of special tools?

And ib768: I've wondered this too.. I even wrote and called Comp Cams about it, but never received a response. Thanks for posting it here.
I did it on my Dakota w/5.9 using compressed air, but it was a friggen pain...I can't imagine doing it on a Ram with the engine as far back as it is, but I'm sure people have. But I like the rope idea, keeps the valve from dropping in the cylinder.

When I change out springs/heads etc on my 98 Ram, I'm gonna pull the motor...Life is too short....LOL
 
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 02:13 PM
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that should be pretty close to what mine will sound like when i get mine installed.

mopar r/t +10 cam and 1.7's.

and richard is a good guy. he is always trying to help out.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 02:28 PM
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new cam w/ 1.7s are going to require new springs. Our stock "beehive" springs are not up to the task. Look into double springs, the can handle the extra lift and pressure @ higher rpms and won't float.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 02:31 PM
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Strip the motor down and put new cam bearings in and new double chain. Pull the heads so it's easier to work on. Why take twice the time struggling with the springs when the heads are in the truck, when you can work on it on a bench and dial it with ease. Just my 2 cents.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by talon6
that should be pretty close to what mine will sound like when i get mine installed.

mopar r/t +10 cam and 1.7's.

and richard is a good guy. he is always trying to help out.
I loved the way my truck sounded with my "Sausage Cam", I have a 236/242 547/548 cam now...But I have modded shimmed stock lifters, (not Rhodes) which are still hydraulic rollers, but you set them with a feeler gauge...Good for 7K plus RPM, which I need, but they kill some of the lope... RATS!

What good is cam if it doen't shake the fillings out of your teeth...
 
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockyhigh360
Strip the motor down and put new cam bearings in and new double chain. Pull the heads so it's easier to work on. Why take twice the time struggling with the springs when the heads are in the truck, when you can work on it on a bench and dial it with ease. Just my 2 cents.
x2...
 
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by drewactual
Adobe, this isn't exactly a thread jack, because it does pertain:

What method would you recommend to swap springs whilst the heads remain ON the block? Is the 'rope in cylinder' reasonable? I think I would trust that more than air, but I've some precaution about either.. Do you have any suggestions short of special tools?

And ib768: I've wondered this too.. I even wrote and called Comp Cams about it, but never received a response. Thanks for posting it here.
you can just do them 1 cylinder at a time and rotate to TDC, the piston will stop the valve
 
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