Coolant overflow reasons?
#11
i bought 2 dorman heater hose splice tubes and placed one in each hose, about midway to the core in a convenient spot. it doesn't have the cute little T, but it allows me to easily separate the lines and backflush the core, or fill the lines. i didn't want to risk breaking the heater core tubes by yanking on the hoses.
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http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...i_sku=17190322
#12
I've been thinking of doing something like that, perhaps one in each heater hose with shut-off valves between them and the water pump to make heater core flushing simpler. With that setup and a low pressure fluid pump it should be a simple matter to flush and burp the heater core without any additional hoop jumping. Not that the setup wouldn't be its own bit of hoop jumping...
#13
#16
probably a stupid question, but my heat isn't nearly like it was last year, and i've replaced thermostat twice during the summer, so probably didn't burp it properly...could that be the reason my heat sucks, and when i start driving in the morning, it sounds like a waterfall is rushing thru the engine compartment?? Almost sounds like its in the cab, its so loud.
#17
probably a stupid question, but my heat isn't nearly like it was last year, and i've replaced thermostat twice during the summer, so probably didn't burp it properly...could that be the reason my heat sucks, and when i start driving in the morning, it sounds like a waterfall is rushing thru the engine compartment?? Almost sounds like its in the cab, its so loud.
Method one:
Park the truck at as extreme an angle as your sphincter will tolerate, with the passenger front as high as possible. Run the engine with the radiator cap removed. Let the thermostat cycle a couple times, adding coolant as required.
Method two:
Separate the heater inlet hose at the splice by the passenger side valve cover. (I have no idea why that is there.....) Clamp off the engine side of the hose first.
Remove the return line from the metal pipe that goes to the water pump. Plug the metal pipe. (I used a small cork.) Starting with reverse flow, (water goes in the hose that hooked to the water pump) flush the heater core in both directions, as many times as it takes to get clean water out the other side. Finish with reverse flow.
Reconnect the hoses, taking care to lose as little as possible out of the heater core, and lines. (having a spare set of hands makes this part easier.)
Burp the system normally, and top off with pure coolant. (as there is only water in the heater core at this point.) Make sure coolant protects you to the appropriate temp for your climate.
Put the cap back on, close the hood, and enjoy a real heater again.
#19
alright. Thx for the proper way to do it. My buddy that helped with water pump replacement/ thermostat replacements, never mentioned the truck had to be angled when i was letting it run with cap off for half hour or so. It burped for a while, but I was parked level when I did it. Wife just bought a used 2000 intrepid, so I'm going to do an inspection on the engine and stuff tomorrow, so figured while I'm all good n greasy from that, I may as well fix my heat. I was really hoping it'd be something simple. Thx for the instructions. Hope to have my heat back soon, cause it's been fricken cold in nebraska lately, and I'm tired of driving with ma gloves on like an old woman or something. LOL
#20