Yeah, the magnet was totally covered in grey matter and I replaced the filter. I will try the jacking thing to get more out and measure what i have taken out. I have 8 quarts of atf +4 ready, that stuff isn't cheap and nowhere had gallons, just quarts.

Thank you to all that have replied to this thread, I would have never even attempted this if I didn't have this great resource. Also the friend of mine that said "F it, lets just do it" helped as well. I'll keep you all updated on my progress and I'm sure I'll have more questions before I'm done.

 

yes sir on the test light.


and i pulled my intake the frist time @ 68,ooo miles.......WOW was it dirty!!

 

Yea so everyone says, i did it to a 42re with 100k and it has 170k on it now. I had to flush it because the fluid was so dirty it wouldnt shift anymore

 

So, got everything put back together, tried to start it and no go. Think timing was off, so started to mess with turning the distributor to adjust timing with no luck, just got one loud bang and regrouped. We then lined up the harmonic balancer mark with TD mark on the timing cover and lined up the #1 wire going into the dist cap with the rotor to try to get timing close to where it should be. Tried to start and it sounds like it wants to start, but doesn't. Any ideas on what we could try? Checked over connections and seems like everthing is where it should be.

Thank you for any help, Reggie.

 

Moving the dist was a bad plan...... Ooopsie.

I think there is a procedure for resetting all the mechanicals on that in the 01 service manual you can download from the faq section..... I would start there.

 

You can give this a try, but like HayYou said oppps.

 

Thank you so much for the replies, I will try the indexing that way to try and reset it. Why do they have to bury the distributor way back there, it a real pain to work on, I may just take the intake manifold off again to make it easier.

 

Because design engineers have an inborn hatred for mechanics.

 

Just to give you some enlightenment on why everyone says this:

The burned off clutch material suspended in the tranny fluid acts as a friction modifier in the application of the pistons, bands, and such in the tranny. When you do a full flush you remove this clutch material, and the aformentioned parts arent able to grab/hold as well (resulting in slipping/hesitation) which speeds the burning of more clutch material, and ultimately shortens the life of the tranny.

So now you know

 

No, the reason you shouldn't flush a transmission is because it is typically done with a machine that hooks to the dipstick and reverse flushes the fluid, pulling the fluid in the opposite direction of normal flow. This in turn pulls all the junk trapped in the filter up into the valve body and jams up the internals of the VB.

If a trans needed burnt clutch material to act as a friction modifier to function it would:
1. Slip like a mother when it was new
2. Not use a filter as it just collects all that precious clutch material
3. Not have a magnet sunk in the pan for the reasons stated above.
4. Use a type F or other fluid that already has "the grippy stuff" in it.

Shops back flush for one reason. It saves time. They don't have to drop the pan and change the filter, they just reverse the flow and pull the crap right up the VB.