Transfer Case Slipping/ getting screwed over
Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 5,011
Likes: 6
From: Meeker, CO
If the transfer case isn't already splattered, you'll want one of these transfer case savers whether the old snap ring is broken or not.
And if that old case is splattered, you'll want a transfer case saver in the new one.
And if that old case is splattered, you'll want a transfer case saver in the new one.
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Registered User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 36
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From: Virginia
I spoke with the guy today, and he said the reason they did the u joint work was because it plays a part in ruining the tcase. He said a multiple of factors (suspension, driveshaft angle, ujoints, etc.) will cause a tcase failure. I told him that if his technician told me that all of these things needed fixed eventually, but the real problem is in the tcase, I would have told him to wait on the other parts, and fix the tcase first. He's gonna end up giving me a credit for the amount I spent on the u joint work which is good, but I'm still a little pissed.
He told me that the T case is chain driven and the chain is slipping off causing it to slip out of 2wd, I though the tcase was gear driven, but I'm sure I'm wrong. I told him about the snap spring and he said he would look into it with a drivetrain specialist. I called AAMCO and they informed me that a rebuild is usually cheaper than a new tcase, but its hard to tell how much it will cost because they need to open up the tcase to see the damage.
I figure about a 1,000 dollar job to get the tcase back into shape, and with my 450 dollar credit ill be out another 550 bucks. Anyway, I'll let you guys know my findings tomorrow.
He told me that the T case is chain driven and the chain is slipping off causing it to slip out of 2wd, I though the tcase was gear driven, but I'm sure I'm wrong. I told him about the snap spring and he said he would look into it with a drivetrain specialist. I called AAMCO and they informed me that a rebuild is usually cheaper than a new tcase, but its hard to tell how much it will cost because they need to open up the tcase to see the damage.
I figure about a 1,000 dollar job to get the tcase back into shape, and with my 450 dollar credit ill be out another 550 bucks. Anyway, I'll let you guys know my findings tomorrow.
Record Breaker
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,181
Likes: 3
From: Battle Ground WA
I spoke with the guy today, and he said the reason they did the u joint work was because it plays a part in ruining the tcase. He said a multiple of factors (suspension, driveshaft angle, ujoints, etc.) will cause a tcase failure. I told him that if his technician told me that all of these things needed fixed eventually, but the real problem is in the tcase, I would have told him to wait on the other parts, and fix the tcase first. He's gonna end up giving me a credit for the amount I spent on the u joint work which is good, but I'm still a little pissed.
He told me that the T case is chain driven and the chain is slipping off causing it to slip out of 2wd, I though the tcase was gear driven, but I'm sure I'm wrong. I told him about the snap spring and he said he would look into it with a drivetrain specialist. I called AAMCO and they informed me that a rebuild is usually cheaper than a new tcase, but its hard to tell how much it will cost because they need to open up the tcase to see the damage.
I figure about a 1,000 dollar job to get the tcase back into shape, and with my 450 dollar credit ill be out another 550 bucks. Anyway, I'll let you guys know my findings tomorrow.
He told me that the T case is chain driven and the chain is slipping off causing it to slip out of 2wd, I though the tcase was gear driven, but I'm sure I'm wrong. I told him about the snap spring and he said he would look into it with a drivetrain specialist. I called AAMCO and they informed me that a rebuild is usually cheaper than a new tcase, but its hard to tell how much it will cost because they need to open up the tcase to see the damage.
I figure about a 1,000 dollar job to get the tcase back into shape, and with my 450 dollar credit ill be out another 550 bucks. Anyway, I'll let you guys know my findings tomorrow.
They're bending you over again.
Pull the tail housing and I'll bet you'll find a missing snap ring. It's really not that difficult to pull the t-case and split it open. I had mine out of the truck and split in an hour. It ended up being unnecessary since nothing in the t-case was damaged. You could do the tail housing and snap ring in like a half hour.
Last edited by Hahns5.2; Jan 26, 2011 at 09:39 PM.
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Registered User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
The chain only drives the front axle.
They're bending you over again.
Pull the tail housing and I'll bet you'll find a missing snap ring. It's really not that difficult to pull the t-case and split it open. I had mine out of the truck and split in an hour. It ended up being unnecessary since nothing in the t-case was damaged. You could do the tail housing and snap ring in like a half hour.
They're bending you over again.
Pull the tail housing and I'll bet you'll find a missing snap ring. It's really not that difficult to pull the t-case and split it open. I had mine out of the truck and split in an hour. It ended up being unnecessary since nothing in the t-case was damaged. You could do the tail housing and snap ring in like a half hour.
Damn, I'm glad you guys know what your talking about, your gonna save me money for sure. I'll bring this information to them tomorrow. This is still for a dodge ram right? I noticed you have a dakota but you seem to know your stuff.
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Registered User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 36
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From: Virginia
Also, one more question. If their gonna keep screwing me over, I might as well do this job myself. Is it pretty straight foreward? Do I need to drain any fluids or can I just pull of the drive shaft and get in the tcase?
Record Breaker
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,181
Likes: 3
From: Battle Ground WA
You just need to pull the rear driveshaft and remove the 3 bolts that hold the tail housing on. You will need RTV to seal it back up. Fluid level should not be high enough to leak when you remove the tail housing.