i bought 01 1500 last nite and today had no brakes and fluids gushing from above the axle on the frame, looks like the union there. ive read its very common.
from what i read i think i wana rebuild the whole back portion including using chevy cylinders.
so to avoid going to autozone 45 times this weekend im looking for some help to make a list of all things i would need. im thinking of using a compression fitting right befor gas tank and replacing everything from there back to and including the cylinders.
i wouldnt mind just repairing the gush it doesnt look like its coming from a line but instead from the union thats on the frame. but i think id feel better just doing the whole thing so i can feel better and safe.
help would be much appreciated on a list for this i have a pipe bender and will pick up the flare tool. its to cold now for me to go ripping it apart and piecing it back together it sure would be nice to do it all in one shot being prepared.
union(s), hoses, steel line,cylinders(chevy model?), fittings
seems like all i need but not sure of sizes lengths and specifics. help much appreciated

 

I can't help you with a parts list, but I do know that using a compression union on brake lines is illegal, and you will fail inspection if the tech see's it.

 

i read that too. is my only other choice running a new line all the way or can i use a union. im not too familiar with repairing these as any one can see.

 

Bend a new line yourself or get a prebent aftermarket or dealer line. You can also get a flaring tool and go that route.

 

i would replace all the brake lines with brand new one. if you get a flaring tool the brake lines and fittings will probably only cost you about $25. there is no point in replacing half a brake line. someone did that on the 81 i bought and when i was going to bleed the rear brakes up after replacing the both wheel cylinders the section they reused blew.

 

The main line from front to back prebent is about $28 from the dealer for a BE body.
If you go this route it is easier to put it in by removing the drivers side wheel well ( the plastic part)

 

unless you haul/tow VERY regualrly you WON'T be happy with dually cylinders

 

i ordered 2 oe ones thanks for that.

i ordered 25' of 3/16 it also comes with some fittings also the rubber hose that drops down, 2 cylinders and a clip for the hose. i will attempt to bend and flare it with a loaner from autozone gonna do it all from front to back. thanks all for the info now i just need my order to show and a somewhat warm day at least warm enough for the ice to melt.

one last question i was looking at where the long line goes into that union up front and wondering if i should just keep oiling it for the days befor i start also was wondering about using a little heat on it. bad idea?

the rust on this truck for a 2001 seems to be crazy i had an 98 s10 i got rid of to get this and i dont think the rust was half as bad not the frame but just like the hoses lines and things.
thanks again ryan

 

Yeah, hit everything with chemicals as much as you can before trying to break anything loose. But, since you are replacing all of it...... you can just cut the lines, and use a six point socket on the flare nuts.

I would try and avoid using heat on the proportioning valve. There are seals in there that won't really like that much. As for the rest, if you are replacing things on both sides of the fitting, go for it.

 

i didnt think that was a valve it hooks to, its like a little rectangle i thought it was just something to connect one line to another. i thought the valve was bigger and closer to the mc with a few lines. this thing is right by the frame maybe even on it,lower down il have to double check. im planning on cutting everything only thing il need to salvage is the bracket the rubber hose drops from in the back and this block thing up front.