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DIY trans temp gauge, remote filter and aux cooler

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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 10:05 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by zman17
There is no sensor in the factory cooler, and the only thing that won't work if the fluid is too cold is OD. And like I asked previously... where did you plumb in the aftermarket gauge sensor? And btw, you don't want your tranny running 140 degrees under normal driving in cold temp areas. My gauge starts at 100 and does not get to that unless I'm plowing, then it gets up to 160 or so.
I think running at 140 under any condition is completely acceptable. Nominal operating temp is 180-195. Mine usually runs around 140 on warm days. On cold days, i'm lucky if my needle moves at all (it starts at 100).
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 10:58 AM
  #32  
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alright I just dropped it off at my local shop along with 4 quarts of trans fluid, filter, governor solenoid, pressure sensor, and the lock up and overdrive soleniod.

I also gave him a cd with the 01 service manual, and all the info on how to replace the parts and adjust the bands.

He said he could have it done by 5 o clock, and it would be about $200.

He even gave me a lift back to my house in my truck.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 11:10 AM
  #33  
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Holy crap, $200 for an hours work AND you supplied the parts?!
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 11:38 AM
  #34  
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I know, I would have done it myself but as I said earlier I don't have some of the tools, and I really needed it done before I went to work tonight.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 02:39 PM
  #35  
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Sounds like a backward filter caused an overheated transmission and the varnish that formed stuck some moving parts. You might want to re-check those connections to make sure the gazinta isn't swapped with the gazoutta.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 03:19 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by UnregisteredUser
Sounds like a backward filter caused an overheated transmission and the varnish that formed stuck some moving parts. You might want to re-check those connections to make sure the gazinta isn't swapped with the gazoutta.
That's EXACTLY what I said (not so detailed) But he did listen to me. I couldn't agree with you more Unreg.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 04:09 PM
  #37  
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Yeah I figured that I had the in and out switched the first day, that's why I bypassed the filter.

And I just got the truck back, and its driving fine.
The mechanic said when he dropped the pan there was a couple metal shavings but nothing to bad.

I'll report how its driving after I get to work and put a couple miles on her.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 04:25 PM
  #38  
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[Edited to add] Something I'm curious about: Was it in the instructions to use that Teflon tape on the filter fittings? That stuff scares me when it's anywhere near an automatic transmission -- it doesn't take much to stick a ball in the valve body. It could be that taping 'em up is the right thing to do, but I don't.

Originally Posted by J415
That's EXACTLY what I said
Sorry about that... I'm a mite thick-headed sometimes and didn't catch that.
 

Last edited by UnregisteredUser; Feb 24, 2011 at 04:34 PM.
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 04:49 PM
  #39  
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So the mechanic change the solenoids because you asked him to or did he say that was the issue?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by J415
So the mechanic change the solenoids because you asked him to or did he say that was the issue?
just a fwiw in the same note as the quoted: I bet I took out and flushed out those solenoids three times before I finally threw my hands up and swapped them for new.. they get clogged yo- and often times (it's my opinion) that is what causes them to act up.. the last time, I'm pretty sure the gov was not functional at all..
 
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