SeaFoam for Transmission
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Registered User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 16
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From: Rockford, IL
SeaFoam for Transmission
I see so many posting for Seafoaming the intake that I thought I'd give it a try... Which I did. Since I drive like an old man, I really can't tell you I've noticed a performance change, but while I was at the parts store, I saw seafoam treatment formulated for automatic transmissions. With our high mileage trucks and the number of postings about Automatic Transmission problems, I wonder if anyone has experience or opinions of seafoam treatment for A/T, or chemical treatments in general for Auto Transmissions?
Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 5,011
Likes: 6
From: Meeker, CO
If you're concerned about some unnamed unknown stuff gunking up your AT, just do a filter and fluid change and add a remote filter. Then replace the fluid and the remote filter again after 5,000 miles or so. That'll clean things up without the risk of causing harm.
Various posts here and articles that can be found on the web explain how one might do a full fluid replacement by opening a cooling line and pouring ATF in as fast as it's pumped out. Some folks say it's a silly idea, but I've done it several times on different vehicles and have yet to break anything by it.
The only time an automatic transmission should see any solvent stronger than ATF is when it's out of the vehicle being prepped for reassembly. Stronger solvents that can effectively attack varnish or adhered clutch friction material on the metal parts will just as effectively attack the seals and clutches.
If your transmission has leaky seals that might benefit from a seal swelling additive, it's already on its last legs and shouldn't be relied upon -- it's going to leave you walking soon enough.
Friction modifiers are only necessary if you've got high horsepower in front of you and race track beneath you. Otherwise, fluid and spring pressures are already sufficient for keeping the clutches stuck together when they should be -- unless the transmission is so worn out that they're not, in which case it's going to slip even with the friction modifiers.
Corrosion inhibitors and/or lubrication enhancers are a waste at best. ATF is already a slippery corrosion inhibitor.
Personally, I think keeping the fluid and filter(s) clean and adjusting the bands on schedule will go a lot further than bottled magic.
Various posts here and articles that can be found on the web explain how one might do a full fluid replacement by opening a cooling line and pouring ATF in as fast as it's pumped out. Some folks say it's a silly idea, but I've done it several times on different vehicles and have yet to break anything by it.
The only time an automatic transmission should see any solvent stronger than ATF is when it's out of the vehicle being prepped for reassembly. Stronger solvents that can effectively attack varnish or adhered clutch friction material on the metal parts will just as effectively attack the seals and clutches.
If your transmission has leaky seals that might benefit from a seal swelling additive, it's already on its last legs and shouldn't be relied upon -- it's going to leave you walking soon enough.
Friction modifiers are only necessary if you've got high horsepower in front of you and race track beneath you. Otherwise, fluid and spring pressures are already sufficient for keeping the clutches stuck together when they should be -- unless the transmission is so worn out that they're not, in which case it's going to slip even with the friction modifiers.
Corrosion inhibitors and/or lubrication enhancers are a waste at best. ATF is already a slippery corrosion inhibitor.
Personally, I think keeping the fluid and filter(s) clean and adjusting the bands on schedule will go a lot further than bottled magic.
Legend
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,663
Likes: 8
From: Central Oklahoma
If you're concerned about some unnamed unknown stuff gunking up your AT, just do a filter and fluid change and add a remote filter. Then replace the fluid and the remote filter again after 5,000 miles or so. That'll clean things up without the risk of causing harm.
Various posts here and articles that can be found on the web explain how one might do a full fluid replacement by opening a cooling line and pouring ATF in as fast as it's pumped out. Some folks say it's a silly idea, but I've done it several times on different vehicles and have yet to break anything by it.
The only time an automatic transmission should see any solvent stronger than ATF is when it's out of the vehicle being prepped for reassembly. Stronger solvents that can effectively attack varnish or adhered clutch friction material on the metal parts will just as effectively attack the seals and clutches.
If your transmission has leaky seals that might benefit from a seal swelling additive, it's already on its last legs and shouldn't be relied upon -- it's going to leave you walking soon enough.
Friction modifiers are only necessary if you've got high horsepower in front of you and race track beneath you. Otherwise, fluid and spring pressures are already sufficient for keeping the clutches stuck together when they should be -- unless the transmission is so worn out that they're not, in which case it's going to slip even with the friction modifiers.
Corrosion inhibitors and/or lubrication enhancers are a waste at best. ATF is already a slippery corrosion inhibitor.
Personally, I think keeping the fluid and filter(s) clean and adjusting the bands on schedule will go a lot further than bottled magic.
Various posts here and articles that can be found on the web explain how one might do a full fluid replacement by opening a cooling line and pouring ATF in as fast as it's pumped out. Some folks say it's a silly idea, but I've done it several times on different vehicles and have yet to break anything by it.
The only time an automatic transmission should see any solvent stronger than ATF is when it's out of the vehicle being prepped for reassembly. Stronger solvents that can effectively attack varnish or adhered clutch friction material on the metal parts will just as effectively attack the seals and clutches.
If your transmission has leaky seals that might benefit from a seal swelling additive, it's already on its last legs and shouldn't be relied upon -- it's going to leave you walking soon enough.
Friction modifiers are only necessary if you've got high horsepower in front of you and race track beneath you. Otherwise, fluid and spring pressures are already sufficient for keeping the clutches stuck together when they should be -- unless the transmission is so worn out that they're not, in which case it's going to slip even with the friction modifiers.
Corrosion inhibitors and/or lubrication enhancers are a waste at best. ATF is already a slippery corrosion inhibitor.
Personally, I think keeping the fluid and filter(s) clean and adjusting the bands on schedule will go a lot further than bottled magic.
QFT (Quoted For Truth).
Seafoam in the transmission? I can't wait for you to return with a story of how your transmission took a giant shiat and has to be rebuilt.
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Thread Starter
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Registered User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 16
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From: Rockford, IL
I was just asking for opinions, seems we don't like additives in our AT's
Thanks, guys
Champion
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,416
Likes: 4
From: Bay Area, CA
Not always true. MonteC highly recommended LubeGaurd for people with TC shudder.
