can anyone explain this?
#13
After looking at those new pics, i see the pushrod rammed its way through that rocker.... dunno why i didnt see it before . Im gonna go with unreg and say the lifter siezed (its still possible that the valve got piston tapped though).
Could also be that the lifter stopped pumping oil through the pushrod; and the friction made it eat its way through (which would also warrant lifter replacement)
In the original pics the rocker looked bent (at least on my screen anyway); thats what I thought you were referring to when you stated it "manufactured a new part"
Edit: whats the bottom of the pushrod look like?
Could also be that the lifter stopped pumping oil through the pushrod; and the friction made it eat its way through (which would also warrant lifter replacement)
In the original pics the rocker looked bent (at least on my screen anyway); thats what I thought you were referring to when you stated it "manufactured a new part"
Edit: whats the bottom of the pushrod look like?
Last edited by Mad_Scientist; 03-09-2011 at 01:02 PM.
#14
#15
Was it making noise before it failed? You can put a new push rod and rocker on there and turn it by hand and see if they all work the same, if they do your lifter is likely o.k. If not then you got a problem. If it's stuck fully pumped, which I've never seen, it will be difficult to turn by hand.
However, as stated, if it's under warranty of course, let them handle it.
However, as stated, if it's under warranty of course, let them handle it.
#16
bummer update
Well Jasper is in the clear. Looks like I'm about 3 weeks past the warranty period. How effin perfect is that? Here's a link for a tool that I saw for pulling lifters through the head:
http://www.toolfetch.com/Category/Au...ols/KD2114.htm
but like HeyYou said I don't think they will fit through the head on this engine. I'm going to go look when it stops raining.
The rocker arm has no visible deformation (other than a pushrod jammed into its wahoo!). No gouges, etc. I shined a lite through the pushrod and no obstructions. Also I put a straightedge on the pushrod and its flat all the way around. Also with less than 30k on a rebuilt...oh sorry Jasper...remanufactured engine that I've maintained and not abused, leads me to want to believe this was just a fluke rocker defect as Randy opinionated.
Then again, the price for being wrong is pretty steep.
So here's my plan:
1.get a new pushrod and perform the manual tests (pushing on the lifter, turning the crank,etc) BTW thanks Mad - I found that post from Drewactual I think you were describing here
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...s-lifters.html
2.If the lifter passes those then try a crank-only test (I'll rig up a remote starter so I can observe from the engine compartment).
3.Then I'll test the cam lobe with a dial indicator on the pushrod using a procedure I found in the Haynes manual.
4. If that's ok then install rocker arm (to provide load on the lifter) and repeat manual and crank tests.
5. and finally, full test with air, fuel, and fire.
If any tests fail, I pull the intake and curse Jasper while lubing my own lifters with Jack Daniels (Drewactual recommends Capt Morgan but I don't like rum)
What do you guys think?
but like HeyYou said I don't think they will fit through the head on this engine. I'm going to go look when it stops raining.
The rocker arm has no visible deformation (other than a pushrod jammed into its wahoo!). No gouges, etc. I shined a lite through the pushrod and no obstructions. Also I put a straightedge on the pushrod and its flat all the way around. Also with less than 30k on a rebuilt...oh sorry Jasper...remanufactured engine that I've maintained and not abused, leads me to want to believe this was just a fluke rocker defect as Randy opinionated.
Then again, the price for being wrong is pretty steep.
So here's my plan:
1.get a new pushrod and perform the manual tests (pushing on the lifter, turning the crank,etc) BTW thanks Mad - I found that post from Drewactual I think you were describing here
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...s-lifters.html
2.If the lifter passes those then try a crank-only test (I'll rig up a remote starter so I can observe from the engine compartment).
3.Then I'll test the cam lobe with a dial indicator on the pushrod using a procedure I found in the Haynes manual.
4. If that's ok then install rocker arm (to provide load on the lifter) and repeat manual and crank tests.
5. and finally, full test with air, fuel, and fire.
If any tests fail, I pull the intake and curse Jasper while lubing my own lifters with Jack Daniels (Drewactual recommends Capt Morgan but I don't like rum)
What do you guys think?
#17
So here's my plan:
1.get a new pushrod and perform the manual tests (pushing on the lifter, turning the crank,etc) BTW thanks Mad - I found that post from Drewactual I think you were describing here
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...s-lifters.html
2.If the lifter passes those then try a crank-only test (I'll rig up a remote starter so I can observe from the engine compartment).
3.Then I'll test the cam lobe with a dial indicator on the pushrod using a procedure I found in the Haynes manual.
4. If that's ok then install rocker arm (to provide load on the lifter) and repeat manual and crank tests.
5. and finally, full test with air, fuel, and fire.
If any tests fail, I pull the intake and curse Jasper while lubing my own lifters with Jack Daniels (Drewactual recommends Capt Morgan but I don't like rum)
What do you guys think?
Not the exact post I was describing (mine had video, and was dealing with drewactual's truck); but it does describe the procedure in far greater detail than I was able to, and thus, will suffice.
Good Luck
#19
Found it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tl9oDaMLCME
its part of this thread (post#69), which has a lot of good info:
https://dodgeforum.com.....html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tl9oDaMLCME
its part of this thread (post#69), which has a lot of good info:
https://dodgeforum.com.....html
Last edited by Mad_Scientist; 03-09-2011 at 03:42 PM.
#20
it would be nice if you could pull the lifters through the heads, but you can't on these engines..
under the keg is a spider retainer, which holds the lifter yokes on/in place... those lifters ain't goin' nowhere without the spider and the yokes removed..
when yo say 'seized', do you mean the plunger thingy in the lifter froze or the lifter itself was pressed up and jammed into the cylindrical hole it's resting inside? If you mean the latter, you'd dang sure know it because that would mean a yoke is broken, which would mean there would be a loose piece of steel in your valley.. if it is because a lifters piston is stuck- that shouldn't be a big deal..
if the lifters piston was stuck at the bottom of its travel, you could certainly get enough loose tolerance to smack that lifter rod straight into to bottom of that rocker.. the cam would basically launch that thing like a tiny missile, because of the clearance allowing it to do so, no? Seems you would hear that for certain though..
under the keg is a spider retainer, which holds the lifter yokes on/in place... those lifters ain't goin' nowhere without the spider and the yokes removed..
when yo say 'seized', do you mean the plunger thingy in the lifter froze or the lifter itself was pressed up and jammed into the cylindrical hole it's resting inside? If you mean the latter, you'd dang sure know it because that would mean a yoke is broken, which would mean there would be a loose piece of steel in your valley.. if it is because a lifters piston is stuck- that shouldn't be a big deal..
if the lifters piston was stuck at the bottom of its travel, you could certainly get enough loose tolerance to smack that lifter rod straight into to bottom of that rocker.. the cam would basically launch that thing like a tiny missile, because of the clearance allowing it to do so, no? Seems you would hear that for certain though..