Good Luck! Hope it works for ya. I will prolly be in bed by the time you get back. Us old fogies need our beauty sleep. (not that it actually ever works.....)

 

Nothing. Still the same. I let it run on a steep angle for 40 to 45 minutes.

 

If the stat is working, and the fan clutch is good, and the water pump is working, then I would look at the radiator itself. Has it been flushed? It sounds like you have some kind of clog. IF the air is out and the stat is working and everything else checks out, then that only leaves the radiator.

Good luck, I know how frustrating it is.

 

Were you able to add any coolant at all or was it full?
If there was an air pocket you should have been able to add coolant.
Adding coolant as it runs with the thermostat open will help to displace the air and force the air out.


Dave

 

Wouldn't removing the coolant temp sensor act as an air bleed and remove any air pocket that could be below the thermostat? Since that was done I doubt their is an air pocket below the t-stat. Next, shouldn't you be able to feel the top hose and tell if the t-stat is open? If the top hose is super hot, the t-stat is open. If the t-stat is open and its still not cooling, you have a radiator/airflow problem. How about radiator cap? is it holding pressure?

 

jderou, I think you may have nailed it. At least, come up with a VERY good suggestion. These trucks are pretty good at accumulating 'stuff' between the condenser, and radiator..... limiting airflow....

 

Compare the old t-stat to the new one. If the new one is "taller", that's your problem. It has happened to someone else here who was going crazy with his truck running hot and everyone here literally telling him to park at a 55º incline to bleed the air. It turned out that replacement t-stat was too "tall" compared to the old one, which was causing a restriction in the flow of coolant.

 

Also, another possible way to test if t-stat is open and pump is pumping.
I haven't tried this, but I would think it would work.
Long screwdriver trick, up to ear. Top hose with no coolant moving should sound different from one that is flowing sufficiently.

 

Alright guys. Apparently everything has been fixed with the overheating issue. The truck had a clogged radiator; had to get a new one it was too far gone. However, the temp. gauge is still reading too hot -- around 220, not quite as high as before but not far off. The shop told me the gauge is not working correctly. They drove it around with a scanner on it and the coolant is at the right temp. The temp. gauge was working perfectly before I did all the work. Maybe I did something to screw up the reading. Maybe the computer will have to relearn things. Anyway, they said it was running at the correct temperature.

 

Sounds like you need to get a new coolant temp sensor. I'm **** about stuff like that and I want my dash gauge readings to be accurate.