You have the same truck as me, good luck on the rebuild

 

Im hoping the Pawl was the problem that was disengaged to Parking Sprag in be in gears in the first place.

What is that bolt above the circle?

 

lol ur telling me. I wouldnt mind rebuilding it, just that all the parts are fine except that lip seals was torn. Can do the overhaul kit that includes Paper & Rubber Kit, Front & Rear Seal and Sealing Ring Kit.

I know the Overdrive clutches are dirt'd up. I can get that replaced from "https://www.wittrans.com/Schematic.a...18&Schematic=6" on part 100 and 120.

Im still deciding rather just get the rebuild kit or just put it all back with the new gaskets and new seals together, hoping that pawl was the problem to put in gears.

How would you tell if the converter is bad? I thought is when you cant able to spin from the input shaft

 

What do you think was wrong with the park pawl? It has nothing to do with your truck not going into gear, it is an entirely different system in the tranny. If your truck free revved before but didn't move the park pawl was not you problem.

At this point you need to stop and read, A LOT. Go buy an ATSG manual for an A518 tranny. I like this book too but it only covers the front half of the tranny (A727 part) http://www.amazon.com/Torqueflite-72.../dp/1557883998

You should go ahead and rebuild the tranny at this point. You need to compress a very strong spring in the OD unit. To get by this I had a shop rebuild my OD unit for me. Cost me $75 but saved me a lot of time and hassle.

If you are going to rebuild it go buy a complete paper and rubber kit, frictions and steels, bands, and a new torque converter. It will be cheaper to buy in kits rather than individual pieces. I also suggest trying to find made in USA parts as the imported stuff has a poor reputation.

If you are just going to half a$$ it an throw a few parts into it don't bother buying a torque converter as the tranny most likely won't last and when the tranny lets go it will throw debris into your new torque converter and destroy it.

I don't think thats rust on the frictions, all the trannies I have rebuilt have had that. I am not sure what it is though.

Looks like burnt tranny fluid on the OD direct clutch.

 

I wish I had a direct answer for your question man, I know all sorts of ways to tell if its *going* bad, none to tell if it is *already* bad. I know a good bit about trannies, but it is all based on a theoretical understanding of how the system works, with little hands-on experience.

Since you bought the truck in this condition already, I'm guessing you don't have much backstory into the problem. If the TC is to blame in this case, it is a complete and utter do not pass go failure.

All that being said, your idea that a bad one wouldn't spin on the input shaft is probably correct (based off of my understanding of how it works), and thus we have (maybe) eliminated it as the source of the problem. I'd wait for someone with more experience in the area to comment though (where you at unreg?), my input on trannies is sometimes known to be false.

 

If it was bad it could still turn on the input shaft. It would only not turn if it got hot and seized up.

I really don't know how torque converters can go bad. They are just fins that push fluid around, not much that can go wrong, nothing to "wear". The Lockup clutch could burn up and send debris through the tranny destroying it. Maybe someone could enlighten me.

 

the brown is just clutch disk residue. and the rust on the teeth normally means that the case was no sealed completely and was leaking water by. but you have the tranny out. rebuild it deffently. but i would really think about finding a manual tranny they make a 6 speed and like i said earlier theres nothing really to the install changing the pedels installing the master cylinder. and pulling the auto shifter out of the column and getting a closed column installing the pilot bearing. the hole is factory cut got the shifter. you just remove the cover. and the longer drive shaft because the tranny is shorter. then you will also gain HP to the rear wheels because the manual tranny actually takes less hp to turn. then you can sell the rebuilt auto and cover your costs. but i do have to say for someone that hasnt ever done an auto tranny you tore into it pretty good.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...#ht_1403wt_723

im gonna go ahead to order the rebuild kit from ebay for $108. what do you think?

 

just in reading your post you state that the tranny cooler was bypssed by the PO....there for there was no real cooling happening in the tranny the rest of the time the PO had the vehicle. Heat is a killer with these trannys, and looking at the burnt fluid on the clutches I would say if it were me a complete rebuild. The torue converter is basically a pump with small delicate fins, any debris will damage these fins bringing your pressures down not allowing the fluid to shift into the selected gears. i hate to say but it's total rebuild time from what i have read and new torque converter time. With tranny parts you generally get what you pay for, buy good quality parts and do the job once.

 

nice..urs a 4x4

your window vent shade makes it look good on ur Ram..i shld get one for my truck as well.