Axle Nut from Hell
Rookie
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
From: Fort Collins Colorado
It sits there...waiting. It's dark, rusty sheen innocently belying it's true, malevolent secret. Its dogged determination to defy Newton's first law and the cornerstone of the study of physics....Regardless of the force applied, it DOESN'T FRIGGING MOVE!!!!!! 
I've broken two wrenches on it so far. My most recent attempt was a 6 foot long 3/4" diameter black pipe over a 3/4" socket 18" sliding breaker bar with the wheel on the ground for resistance. Torque=Lever Arm * Force, so 220 lbs * 6' = 1320 ft*lbs of force and....I BENT THE &&*#&@@!@#^ PIPE!!!!!!
I checked the threads, it's a right-handed thread and I'm trying to turn it the right way. I've tried WD40, PB blaster and some stuff NAPA recommended called Freeze Off (or something similar).
How the heck to I get this thing off the truck?! When driving, the wheel is making a pulsing, grinding sound in time with the turning of the wheel and I'm kinda afraid to drive it anywhere for fear the bearing will finally give up and I'll be sans a wheel on the road. Certainly not the preferred method of wheel and bearing removal...
My wife needs her car this week. I've got to get the hub changed and after spending over 1000.00 bucks on parts this month I'm pretty much out of cash. I'm open for any ideas here, guys...
Thanks
I've broken two wrenches on it so far. My most recent attempt was a 6 foot long 3/4" diameter black pipe over a 3/4" socket 18" sliding breaker bar with the wheel on the ground for resistance. Torque=Lever Arm * Force, so 220 lbs * 6' = 1320 ft*lbs of force and....I BENT THE &&*#&@@!@#^ PIPE!!!!!!
I checked the threads, it's a right-handed thread and I'm trying to turn it the right way. I've tried WD40, PB blaster and some stuff NAPA recommended called Freeze Off (or something similar).
How the heck to I get this thing off the truck?! When driving, the wheel is making a pulsing, grinding sound in time with the turning of the wheel and I'm kinda afraid to drive it anywhere for fear the bearing will finally give up and I'll be sans a wheel on the road. Certainly not the preferred method of wheel and bearing removal...
My wife needs her car this week. I've got to get the hub changed and after spending over 1000.00 bucks on parts this month I'm pretty much out of cash. I'm open for any ideas here, guys...
Thanks
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 12,204
Likes: 10
From: Gainesville, Ga.
my 01 was not reverse thread. both sides were standard. the nuts did have dimples that had to be tapped out.
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 12,204
Likes: 10
From: Gainesville, Ga.
1-11/16. autozone's and advance's don't have it. harbor freight does, but its a 1/2 drive cheapo for about $8. it might/might not break.
some people find them at sears but my sears didn't have it. sears is not cheap either. i ended up getting mine at my local napa. damn thing was about $27 and is 3/4 drive.
tractor supply has it.
some people find them at sears but my sears didn't have it. sears is not cheap either. i ended up getting mine at my local napa. damn thing was about $27 and is 3/4 drive.
tractor supply has it.
Rookie
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton, Alberta
My 01 driver side was a standard thread. There is enough exposed thread to see what direction the threads go.
Mine wasn't that bad, gave me a reason to go out and buy a 3/4" drive ratchet, lol. I used that ratchet which is approx 20" long and a 3' snipe. I had a 3' wrecking bar that I used to hold the hub in place. Set up the ratchet so that I could step on it and use my body weight and that was enough to break it free.
Mine wasn't that bad, gave me a reason to go out and buy a 3/4" drive ratchet, lol. I used that ratchet which is approx 20" long and a 3' snipe. I had a 3' wrecking bar that I used to hold the hub in place. Set up the ratchet so that I could step on it and use my body weight and that was enough to break it free.
Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 7,055
Likes: 7
From: Lee County, North Carolina
Mine were standard threads.
Look at the threads to see if they're reverse or not.
Looking at the end of the stub shaft you'll see that one of the threads will be closer to you on the left side of the stub and that same thread will be closer to the truck on the right side of the stub if they're standard.
When I took mine off I didn't have a bit of fuss getting it loose.
I sprayed the nut with CRC Knock'er Loose in the morning and that afternoon I went back out there, gave it another shot and it broke free just as my humungoloid muscles started to flex (ha!).
I've been told that CRC Freezeoff has the same ingredients as Knock'er Loose but it has the additional freezing ingredient in it. Knock'er Loose is my preferred penetrating fluid because it works like a charm every time I use it.
Any pry bar that fits in the vanes of the rotor will hold it still while you crack the nut loose, here's my setup. That's my $6 3/4" drive socket and $15 3/4" breaker bar from Tractor Supply.
Look at the threads to see if they're reverse or not.
Looking at the end of the stub shaft you'll see that one of the threads will be closer to you on the left side of the stub and that same thread will be closer to the truck on the right side of the stub if they're standard.
When I took mine off I didn't have a bit of fuss getting it loose.
I sprayed the nut with CRC Knock'er Loose in the morning and that afternoon I went back out there, gave it another shot and it broke free just as my humungoloid muscles started to flex (ha!).
I've been told that CRC Freezeoff has the same ingredients as Knock'er Loose but it has the additional freezing ingredient in it. Knock'er Loose is my preferred penetrating fluid because it works like a charm every time I use it.
Any pry bar that fits in the vanes of the rotor will hold it still while you crack the nut loose, here's my setup. That's my $6 3/4" drive socket and $15 3/4" breaker bar from Tractor Supply.
Last edited by Sheriff420; May 21, 2011 at 12:18 PM.
Thread Starter
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Rookie
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
Looks like y'all got it
The nut is 43mm, but that's hard to find so 1 11/16 12 pt works a charm. I got mine from Napa, along with a 3/4 sliding "T" breaker bar. The thread is standard and 4x4 has no dimple.
Once I got the nut off, the rest went easy as pie. I was extremely liberal with anti-seize so there shouldn't be any trouble next time. I found the easiest way to get the old hub off was to unthread the bolts then put them back in a few threads with a deep socket over the head and against the U-joint bracket. Turn the wheel and use the power steering to break loose the hub. You'll need to do this on both the front and back bolts. After that you should be able to pull the hub right off.
The nut is 43mm, but that's hard to find so 1 11/16 12 pt works a charm. I got mine from Napa, along with a 3/4 sliding "T" breaker bar. The thread is standard and 4x4 has no dimple.
Once I got the nut off, the rest went easy as pie. I was extremely liberal with anti-seize so there shouldn't be any trouble next time. I found the easiest way to get the old hub off was to unthread the bolts then put them back in a few threads with a deep socket over the head and against the U-joint bracket. Turn the wheel and use the power steering to break loose the hub. You'll need to do this on both the front and back bolts. After that you should be able to pull the hub right off.
Amateur
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Little Elm, TX
I agree with Ron333, cut it off. Had this happen on a friends truck. Cut a few grooves through it with a grinding wheel then chiseled it off. Used a dye to recut and clean the threads and obviously used a new nut. Good luck.