It sits there...waiting. It's dark, rusty sheen innocently belying it's true, malevolent secret. Its dogged determination to defy Newton's first law and the cornerstone of the study of physics....Regardless of the force applied, it DOESN'T FRIGGING MOVE!!!!!!

I've broken two wrenches on it so far. My most recent attempt was a 6 foot long 3/4" diameter black pipe over a 3/4" socket 18" sliding breaker bar with the wheel on the ground for resistance. Torque=Lever Arm * Force, so 220 lbs * 6' = 1320 ft*lbs of force and....I BENT THE &&*#&@@!@#^ PIPE!!!!!!

I checked the threads, it's a right-handed thread and I'm trying to turn it the right way. I've tried WD40, PB blaster and some stuff NAPA recommended called Freeze Off (or something similar).

How the heck to I get this thing off the truck?! When driving, the wheel is making a pulsing, grinding sound in time with the turning of the wheel and I'm kinda afraid to drive it anywhere for fear the bearing will finally give up and I'll be sans a wheel on the road. Certainly not the preferred method of wheel and bearing removal...

My wife needs her car this week. I've got to get the hub changed and after spending over 1000.00 bucks on parts this month I'm pretty much out of cash. I'm open for any ideas here, guys...

Thanks

 

if it was me...i'd drive it to the nearest tire/alignment shop and pay them to use their air gun and losten it...then re-tighten it so u can drive home and fix it there...

other than appliying heat, if it bent your bar i'd say its on there...i used a 1" slide bar backed up by a flatbed trailer strap bar and it came right off after a few pursuasion tugs...and mine is an iowa salt their roads in the wintertime truck so u know everything underneath is rusty...

 

you broke a 3/4" ratchet?

 

No, I broke 2 1/2" breaker bars. Just moved up to the 3/4" size.

 

If the breaker bar is long enough use the truck to break it loose,

 

As long as the nut is not stripped your good. Like said above drive it to the nearest tire shop or auto shop. Any shop and ask if they can use the impact to loosen it. Most shops won't even charge you.

Now if they can't your best bet is to go to a Simi-truck/18 wheeler shop and have them use their 1in impact.

That is what I had to do to loosen my CV axle nut which is WAY bigger than any lug nut. Broke 3 1/2in beaker bars. And air and electric impacts didn't do it. 3 tire shops with each one bigger impact wrench then the last couldn't do it. I had to go the 18 wheeler tire shop and they used their 1in Jack Hammer size impact to loosen it up. Didn't charge me a thing, they got a good laugh out of it.

 

I ended up having to cut/chisel mine off... not very easy to do but I eventually made it happen. I cut a couple of deep grooves into the nut without going all the way to the threads on the stud. I used a BFH with a good chisel to break the nut into expanding enough to loosen its grip. I had to get the replacement nut from the dealer...

Through the process I broke my 1/2" breaker bar, bent several lengths of pipe, went through over a can of PB Blaster and nothing but cutting and chiseling worked. I didn't try the suggestion of going to someone with an air impact wrench... that sounds like an excellent idea to try.

 

make sure your socket isnt binding up in the wheel bearing...some replacement bearings have a smaller center hole not by much..i just ran into this problem with my ram 1500...i replaced the wheel bearing with national brand and i have a snap on wheel nut socket for it and it wouldnt fit the hole in the wheel bearing so i had to go buy a chrome socket and get it off...

 

i have a 3/4"-18" ratchet that i jumped up and down on for a good 10 minutes before mine finally broke lose. be sure to apply anti-seize on it this time!

"use the truck to break it loose"... how does that work?

 

Here at work we use fork lifts to loosen stubborn bolts lol.