Running hot after Air Gap FI install
#12
You think Lombard is steep, try going up Filbert!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filbert...(San_Francisco)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filbert...(San_Francisco)
#13
Well, I took a look at the T-stat to make sure I didn't install it upside down. It wasn't, but I did notice that my T-stat (Failsafe T-stat) was locked open. Every time they have locked open on me, the temp would read at 140 steady and wouldn't budge. I'm also gonna change the rad cap. I think it was building up pressure and not releasing it. But why would my rig be overheating if the T-stat was locked open? Also, the fan belt is routed properly so it's not that. I'm starting at the most basic and progressing from there.
#14
PITA!!! Stat didn't make any difference. The needle got up to 200* and kept going. I turned it off before the new stat lock and I have to do this all over again. I'm now figuring out that the colling system was running with the stat open. Wouldn't that burp the system? Also, I know VW battled a overheating issue that ended up being a bad IAT sensor. When I relocated mine in front of my air hat, I noticed that it was kind of oily from the blown kegger. Would that have any bearing in my situation.
#15
it wouldn't have that much dude.. that IAT is only going to get so far out of whack before the o2's tattle on it, and timing comes back into reason.. the IAT in vdub's case (it's my opinion) was altering (advancing) timing, AND leaning him out.. meaning he was running warmer due to lean a/f mix and timing that was bouncing out of reason..
if yours heads north of 200 as quickly and when the system is wide open (open circulation from start-up) you've got something else going on my man..
do you have or can you get your hands on a temperature gun? I'd try to get an accurate shot at that thing and see how close you're actually running compared to the gauge..
Next, i'd be looking for blockages..
It is entirely conceivable that you have a bubble that takes up residence in the pocket/cavity surrounding the sensor/sender and that the fluid sits in an area of 'low pressure', sorta like a bullet travels through the air with dead air in front of it.. the coolant doesn't circulate OUT of the cavity and it actually DOES get hot, but doesn't give a fair representation of the fluid passing by..
If'n it were me, I'd swap positions of the sensor/sender and see what happens first, then I'd shoot it with a temperature sensor gun and see what is really happening..
I hope your not blocked up somewhere, or that you have a milkshake in your crankcase..
aggravating, no? good luck dude..
if yours heads north of 200 as quickly and when the system is wide open (open circulation from start-up) you've got something else going on my man..
do you have or can you get your hands on a temperature gun? I'd try to get an accurate shot at that thing and see how close you're actually running compared to the gauge..
Next, i'd be looking for blockages..
It is entirely conceivable that you have a bubble that takes up residence in the pocket/cavity surrounding the sensor/sender and that the fluid sits in an area of 'low pressure', sorta like a bullet travels through the air with dead air in front of it.. the coolant doesn't circulate OUT of the cavity and it actually DOES get hot, but doesn't give a fair representation of the fluid passing by..
If'n it were me, I'd swap positions of the sensor/sender and see what happens first, then I'd shoot it with a temperature sensor gun and see what is really happening..
I hope your not blocked up somewhere, or that you have a milkshake in your crankcase..
aggravating, no? good luck dude..
#16
and one more thing just so it's out there.. if you laid that clutch fan down whilst you worked on your intake, it may have fouled... is it pushing air as it should? If your truck is stationary, you could always force air through the rad via plug in box fan to see if that effects that rapid rise any.. if'n that clutch is catching and releasing off and on, you could certainly see what you're seeing too..
#17
First off, thanks for the help drew. The first thing I checked was the oil. No milkshake (Thank Goodness) and no oil in coolant. About the fan clutch, when I changed the water pump at 110k (it's now at 167k, about 8 years ago) I laid the fan clutch on its back not knowing there was a right and wrong way. It was like that for 2 days until I finished it. Ever since then, my temp would be off by about 5* give or take. Real odd but I never did anything about it. For the Air Gap FI install, I left the fan on. The odd thing is that it's REAL windy hear today but I'm still getting the same temps. I'm just at a loss...I changed the one wire temp sensor since I broke it while transferring it from the kegger. It's a brand new Borg Warner sensor.
#18
#20
Weird usually people that install it like myself usually reads colder..dunno why its getting hot.. I know the other day went threw a deep middle and my temp gauge went all the way up . Check gauges light came on.. I shut it down and restarted it.all good now. Did you by any chance hurt or bend the wire the wire in the coolant temp. That's in the Manifold..