Funny thing is that even though it's NPT, the thread doesn't taper. It's straight threw. I guess ghats what I'll look at next.

 

So my cel isn't on and 2 of my 3 scanners say I DON'T have any codes. However, my sct code reader says I have p1243. Something about my turbo surge valve having a short in it...i don't have a turbo on my rig. Anyone ever deal with this before?

 

do you by chance have any vacancies in your fuse block being used for some aftermarket part/piece?

 

No, only thing I have aftermarket is fog lights and a trans temp gauge but they're standalones. I haven't messed with the pdc or fuse block.

 

You can get an OEM brand IR temperature gun for $20 at Advance. As far as I know it will read just as well as one of those $100 guns from Lowes.

 

where did you pull power from for the lights?

why I'm asking:
if it is on the same line as something else, I could see where the PCM data would be strange.. sorta like it's reading something that isn't there.. if it's looking for a certain voltage/resistance/frequency, and it's being skewed on the count something else is drawing from the same circuit that would be intended for whatever that code actually is.. well, it would believe it to be there.. computers are logic, they just don't grow notions, ya know?

But only the SCT? It sounds wonky too.. almost like Sean didn't bother with those parameters because they aren't truly there.. he didn't 'shut them off'.. I think I'd ignore it...

how is the temperature control going?

 

So the trans temp gauge is getting the hot wire from the radio and the for lights are connected to the battery via the relay.

As far as my water temp problem that I'm dealing with. Well here's what I've found out so far just by observing. There a difference in what the pcm says and what the gauge says. Here's how it goes:

PCM / Water Temp Gauge
125.6* / 130*

147.2* / The white mark right after 130* (On 94-97 rams 98-01's have a different temp gauge)

188.2* / 200*

Then after that the PCM temp will slowly go between 192* and 200* like it should. However, the gauge temp will fluctuate between the mark right after the 200* and between the two zero's of 200*. I'm gonna install an aftermarket temp gauge to see if there's any difference. I guess we'll see what happens. Thanks for sticking with me fellas. I'll keep you posted...

 

Mine runs the same way. Gauge needle is generally straight up on the middle 0 in the 200. I run a 195 degree stat, so, that's just fine with me.

 

I guess I didn't explain it right. It will fluctuate between a little after the 200* white line and almost toward the end of the last zero.I bought a OEM stat from the stealership. I'm gonna also pick up a gauge sensor from the stealer and hope that makes a difference.

 

Time to update: I just picked up a temp sender from the stealership for the hefty price of $27 (Part # 56027011). I pulled out the old one, well not that old since I bought it a month ago during the install, and upon inspection, I noticed that a lot of the exposed part is a purple burnt color. Like when you put a blowtorch on something. I think that's from when I initially filled my cooling system and tried to burp it. I also think that's why my gauge was showing that I was over heating. I'll let you know if this was my problem.