I can. I wish I didn't. VW chasing his for a couple years before he figured it out. Things aren't always so cut and dry as one wish's them to be.

 

there is a special hose for fuel lines you need to pick up.. I don't have the information handy, but it is a high pressure fuel rated hose.. if you use anything else, you'll be asking for trouble.

 

Ask for line that can handle 150psi minimum, and that is rated for ethanol. A bigger hose won't hurt anything as long as it's tight on the barbs, and you secure it with clamps. For this particular job, I would recommend the spring type hose clamp over a screw type. The hose is too small to get clamping force on the flat housing point on a screw type clamp, whereas the spring clamp with seal evenly 360*.

 

Drew: I think I know wich one your talking about. It's a black hose with a blue lining made by good year. That's the one I used that tore.

Aim: Would the spring clamps your talking about look solid all the way around? The ones I used are. They are suppose to be for F I lines.

Edit: I just pick up 2 feet of 5/16" F I hose that's rated for 180psi...$15 for 2 feet!!! Hope this does it.

Edit: Fit pretty snug. If anybody needs some, I have an extra piece. Now back to my original problem.

 

Those are it.

 

Got a couple of questions for you Drew, if you don't mind. When you hook up you comp to your rig, whats the difference in temp from you comp to your gauge, if any?
Also, how can I tell what my timing advance is? I have the software, but at idle, the advance jumps around a lot. Sorry to sound like a newbie but...well I am a newbie to this comp stuff.

 

Will your software do graphing? Data Logging? If it will, take it out and have it do its tricks. Take note of run time, and mark the points that you are most interested in. (whatever those happen to be....) Then check over the data at your leisure, when you are NOT also driving the truck. See if anything jumps out at you.

 

I have el' cheapo software.. two kinds actually.. One came w/ the usb/obdii, and one was downloaded freeware. Neither graph, one logs.

When the truck is bumbling down the road, I can see the ignition timing in terms of advance and retard and in +/- units I assume to be degrees, but there is a pretty good latency between the PCM and the laptop I'm certain.. I'm certain because when I goose it, it takes the computer a few seconds to catch up, or if I hit it and then back off, it doesn't catch it at all.

What I look for, and I may be wrong here, is HUGE disparities between readings.. I know when it's in open loop it is pretty steady.. When the engine approaches 120* is when things get wonky.. the best I can figure is it is about to close loop and there is a few moments of weirdness on the read-outs.. Once it settles into closed loop though, the o2 banks come online to stay, and the intake air temperature pops up.. This is round-about 120~140 degrees of engine temperature.

That is when I start watching the motion on the ignition.. I watch it drop from round-about +14 (assuming degrees, but doesn't that sound like a lot?) to around +6.. If I approach a hill or something else that reduces vacuum, I'll watch it head back north (I'm assuming this is the tug of war between open loop/table look-up because of throttle position and the real time readings of closed loop)..

I'm blowing all this air for a reason: I'm trying to explain the readings are hard to follow on city/country roads.. I'm sure I could log it, and study it- and compare it to logs from the same routes from previous days and make sense of some of the info, but in reality I'm not sure how much good that will do me.

On the highway, at a steady load (say, -12~14 bars), 2000~2200 RPM's, @ 62MPH, I can get the good stuff, and the stuff that I key off.. Like ignition timing jumping around when there is no need- or, when the o2's alter data when there is no apparent need- when I see the o2's jump or drop, I immediately look at intake temperature and fuel delivery.. look for misfires.. anything that would explain it.. if nothing explains it, I get to thinking: bad connections, or bad sensors.. or god help me, bad PCM..

You guys wanna know why I got so dang interested in that IAT? Because of this: it dang near HAD to be the reason my timing was advancing, because everything else was steady.. I actually moved that thing to the tube between the filter box and the hat during the FI install.. it was staying TOO cool.. whoops.. It is firmly in the hat now, where it stays fairly warm, and the timing promptly stopped bouncing.

point is- I guess what I'm trying to purvey to you is: most of that information is lost on me, but just using logic and having a rudimentary understanding of the major sensors purpose, you can watch the readings and get an idea where they are 'sposed to be, and figure the area's that are jacking with you when they bounce..

curious thing, that i knew about, but didn't know was this important: drive past water on a cool day and watch the engine alter.. denser/cooler air pockets like that WILL bounce your readings.. get behind a diesel.. THAT will bounce your readings.. best thing I can say to finish this tirade is: you'll hafta watch it a little while to figure what you're looking at.

 

Quick question: Instead of regular white thread tape, I used yellow gas line thread tape. It's a little bit thicker. My question is, since the temp gauge sensor grounds itself, would that specific tape interfere with that sensor grounding itself?

 

Anything the insulates the sensor, from it's ground, is going to affect the reading. If resistance goes up with temp, then, you will get an artificially high reading.

Those sensors are NPT thread anyway, so, some variety of sealer isn't really necessary.