The way i read all this it sounded like you did it all at once. Helps to break down what you replaced that did not work. You still have a 46RH so no money's out for those two bugger's. Hate to see someone spend 100 buck's on parts your truck doesn't have. Good luck.

 

didnt spend any money i didnt need to, she needed a tune up anyways i didnt buy anything for the tranny.

i was experiencing a mid to high rpm at the same as my tranny problems.
as far as the order of things, i started with the tps, the cutting out moved to a higher rpm no change in tranny, next day i did plugs, wires, cap, rotor and plugs again the cutting out moved a lil in rpms no change in tranny, last sunday i swapped tb's and cleaned everything this is when she started running right again.
i think my problem as far as cutting out was the iac, it was pretty dirty but not as dirty as the spare i had. the spare throttle body i had, had the oily sandy build up under the butterfly valves so im guessing it had a plenum problem which led to the motors demise and my score on the cheap kegger and intake setup

 

I just replaced the TPS and took it for a test drive. The shifting felt a little more consistent except the gears didn't like to shift until it reached 3000 RPMs. Over drive kicked in fairly soon when I kept a steady speed.

BTW it recently began to shift more like Bigred described at the beginning of the thread except overdrive was never a problem. Also, yesterday, it lugged at an intersection but thankfully kicked in. Then, on my way home, it felt like it skipped a little. Which I still haven't had a chance to replace the distributor cap.

I'll now try cleaning the IAC and see how that works.

95Bigred,
Thanks for the follow up!

 

take your throttle body off and clean the **** outta everything, there was a butt load of crud around the inside where the iac mounts. takes a little extra time but i feel it was well worth it. lol DONT DROP ANYTHING IN YOUR MANIFOLD. it looks like it'd be a hell of a time fishing it out.+

 

I'm not brave enough to do that by myself.

I did take the IAC off and cleaned it like some one else did on another thread. At first it was a little hard to start but when I got going down the road it appeared to shift at lower RPMs at first. The RPMs fluctuated a little about a couple a miles from the house but then evened out. I guess that had something to do with cleaning stuff I used still in it.
Then a couple of times it shifted into a passing gear (briefly) when I was going a steady speed. Then when I got closer back to the house it didn't want to shift from the lower gears (1st or 2nd?) until it got closer to 3000 RPMs. Even with all that, it was a modest improvement. I would have drive it some more but the fuel light came on and I left my money at the house.

Maybe I can get the distributor cap done next week. BTW is there any easy way to change that thing?

 

bout only one way. btw this was the first time ive dove into anything like this and i was fine. there's four bolts a couple quick connect cables and a vacuum line. took maybe an hour total and this would be a great time to do your cap and rotor, you'd have a lil more room to work with. like i said dont drop anything though, just plug the hole with a rag and you'll be fine.

 

REMOVE the negative battery cable before performing any task involving the cleaning or replacement of ANY sensors. Give the PCM 40 miles or so to relearn the settings, before judging whether or not what you replaced/cleaned is working.

 

I done that with the others I replaced but didn't think it was necessary this last time around since I wasn't replacing the IAC but only cleaning it. Didn't realize it would take 40 miles either. I'll disconnect the battery when I get up and reconnect it before I go to work. Appreciate the advice. Thanks a bunch!

Bigred,
I may try taking the TB off the next time I have some time off work. I assumed it would be more problematic than how you put it. Thought I would need torque wrench, seals or something to do that. I have a Haynes book but haven't checked that section out yet.
I may even attempt the cap if I do take it off.

 

Doing the TB is easier than doing the dist cap...... certainly MUCH easier to get to. Only one gasket ya gotta worry about, and they are like 2 bucks at the parts store. (TB gasket to intake manifold.)

 

like i said in my other thread " the idiot that decided to put the dist. back behind the motor should get kicked square in the nuts." damn things an sob to get to.